Help With Removable Handle Scales

[Dustin Quade]

Ok so people have started ordering some knives from me and for the most part i have been comfortable with the orders as they are nothing fancy. However i just got one that i have never heard of before and wanted to know if anyone has any expierience with it.

One of the guys I work with has asked me to make a 6" hunting knife from damascus, he wants to use some wood that he has lying around the house for his handle material but he wants it to be able to be removed. Like he wants to be able to just take that wood off if he wants and replace it with a different material or reshape it or change it out so its more comfortable in the left hand or the right.

Im sure people have expierience but i have never seen something like this except for paracord wrap. I was always taught handles should not come off easy because if it happens while your using it it could be dangerous.

Any thoughts?

[Latticino]

I've personally never done this, but if I were commissioned to do so would probably glue the scales to a thin metal backing, for stability and to have something for the fasteners to bear on, then assemble the knife with Corby rivets or Torx fasteners (http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/75.htm), using a method similar to that for "takedown" folding knife assembly.

Good luck and please post a photo of the finished knife.  Would love to see what you come up with.

[Dustin Quade]

5 minutes ago, Latticino said:

I've personally never done this, but if I were commissioned to do so would probably glue the scales to a thin metal backing, for stability and to have something for the fasteners to bear on, then assemble the knife with Corby rivets or Torx fasteners (http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/75.htm), using a method similar to that for "takedown" folding knife assembly.

Good luck and please post a photo of the finished knife.  Would love to see what you come up with.

Thanks man those might just do the trick! I post almost everything I make on here so you can be sure if this goes somewhere il be posting pictures.

[ozarkmountainknives]

No need for a metal backing, make sure your handle material is stabilized.

[ozarkmountainknives]

Also make sure you get and use the proper step bits and pilots.

Corby's are not ment to be removed, heads are extra thick and ment to be ground to final handle thickness.

[Dustin Quade]

Is the center part of the Torx bolts held in place by friction?

[ozarkmountainknives]

Some makers epoxy them in, I know one maker who presses his in, friction fit.

I assemble one scale and fastener, slide the center into the blank, and assemble the other scale and fastener.

The hardest part of using a fastener like this is all the holes must align perfectly, or one ends up wonky. All your layout and drilling must be perfect!

Also you do not want any slop in the blade blank and female center fastener, or you can end up with scales that misalign and move during use.

Many production knifes have removable scales, (Ka-Bar, ESEE, etc.) But they use all CNC and perfect engineering! 

I have done many removable scales, never had one fail during use, not to say it won't happen with the right gorilla user.

Like I said all your drilling must be perfect, I can't tell you how many times I've had to throw away a set of scales and start over due to one misaligned hole.

Make sure you quote your customers according for all the extra work, material costs. 

Also these fasteners come in sizes for     Final thickness of scales, so you must have an idea before you order, you can adjust it a bit by grinding the threaded male fasteners, but you must clean the threads perfectly. It can be a pita after grinding to get them to assemble smoothly!

Check out Jantz supply, they have the fasteners and step bits, and even some CNC kits that come with blade blanks, fastners, and interchangeable scales. All the hard work is done for you, if you can find a style that fits your customer.

[Latticino]

2 hours ago, ozarkmountainknives said:

No need for a metal backing, make sure your handle material is stabilized.

 

Assumed since the OP said the wood was just "laying around the house" that it would not be stabilized.

[Dustin Quade]

11 minutes ago, Latticino said:

Assumed since the OP said the wood was just "laying around the house" that it would not be stabilized.

Yea that is a safe bet.

[Frosty]

Whatever you do make sure the order form and receipt he signs states in clear language HE assumes all responsibility for a custom design's performance including but not limited to failure in use. A handle like that carries huge liability issues you don't want on your shoulders.

Frosty The Lucky.

[ozarkmountainknives]

8 minutes ago, Latticino said:

Assumed since the OP said the wood was just "laying around the house" that it would not be stabilized.

That's why I recommended stabilization, he could do it himself or farm it out.

attaching to a metal plate is just another point of failure, especially if the material is unstabilized!

And not to mention that after counterbore, on a thin scale, there would be less thickness in the wood under the counterbore which is even more a recipe for failure.

i don't see how attaching to a metal plate would help in either scenario. 

Over the years, I've seen more failures on custom made knives from many makers, at the liner.

If you really want removable scales, the best material to use would be G10 or some other engineered material, second best would definitely be stabilized.

But hey if you like your finished handle an inch and a quarter thick......lol