Shaping steel for an anvil

[Brez]

I picked up a round piece of unhardened 4340 from a machine shop to use as an anvil and am looking for advice on modifying it. It is 11" across and 5.25" thick, about 140lbs. I was thinking of making 2 flat sections opposite each other maybe 4" long, along one side a rounded edge of gradually increasing radius and the opposite of that an orange wedge shaped piece removed and a pritchel and Hardy hole. I know someone with a heavy drill press for the holes and I have a mini grinder. How feasible is this and what kind of discs would be recommended? New to this so any advice is much appreciated and couldn't find an example of a round anvil like this on this site.

Soon to be anvil https://imgur.com/XJzODyt

Anvil plans https://imgur.com/bD4wf2G

 

[arftist]

I would mount it and use it.

Yes you should ease the edges

but I would make a seperate block to hold hardy tools. Of course pritchel holes would be easy to make.

[Frosty]

Put it to work, more anvils have been ruined by attempts to restore or repair than were destroyed by Sherman on his march to the sea.

If you need a pristine face or crisp edge make a bottom tool with a shank welded to one side that fits the existing hardy hole. Welding the shank to one side allows you to position the bottom die where it's most effective. Over the sweet spot over the center of the anvil has the best energy return to move metal more effectively. You can also position one edge near or at the edge of the anvil to allow you to work at steep angles.

Your anvil as she stands has some scars and potentially damaging repairs but there is little to do that won't be done by putting it to work. Hot steel and a hammer will smooth and wok harden that fine old face. Be careful on the edges till you know how competent they are, easing them a LITTLE with a grinder is probably the most you'll need to do.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Brez]

Thanks for the advice. I also got a couple blocks of mild steel, maybe I'll put a hardy hole in one of those and mess around with them. Frosty, I am not sure what you mean by existing hardy hole though as this is just a featureless piece of round steel. What I am getting though is it's best to just take the sharpness off the edges and leave it at that.

As for a base my dad has access to fir stumps so he is going to find me a good sized one and I might router out a shallow depression (maybe 1") to sink it in to.

[Frosty]

Sorry, I was responding to someone else entirely! I hate it when I confuse myself, especially if I take other folk along. 

I think I'd make a portable hole rather than try make a hardy hole in what you have.

Taking two slices fro opposing sides will do two good things, first it makes mounting it easier it can just sit on the flat. The opposing flat becomes the face. Now if you cut each slice in half two pieces can become feet, perpendicular to and centered in the side. The other slice can be welded flush with and in line with the face, one can become a horn the other a heal.

I use a horn most often as a bottom fuller, I turn circles or scrolls by starting them over the edge and finishing them on the face.  A heal that comes to a relatively thin end makes for a nice bridge for forming staple shapes.

Forget my first reply it was a complete screw up on my part.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Charles R. Stevens]

I would recomend one of two things, either leave it be, mount it with a heathy bead of silicon on a 5" round post and call it a day, 11" face to bash to your hearts desire (tho 3 legs welded on like a joke stool...)

or, if your going to grind and get crazy, cut it down the middle, flip the two simi circles one over the othe and have the "waist" of your anvil fully welded. Now carve a horn, and drill pritchel holes and a hardy (think German double horn). 

In truth option one, including fabricating a bick and portible hole is less work and very workable. 

[Brez]

Haha I was wondering about that Frosty but you seem to be pretty experienced and I wasn't sure if I was just not comprehending what you were saying. 

Thanks for the good ideas everyone I have some thinking to do it seems.

[Charles R. Stevens]

That was clear as mud, I ment to place the cut sides parrelel and the curved sides together, welding the curved sides...

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

I have a lot of different sized shanks on hardy tools, so a lot of times I just clamp them in my post vise.

[Brez]

Yeah I had considered that Biggundoctor. Keeping my eye out for a post vice. Just starting out so really all I have right now is the anvil steel and an angle grinder. Have a line on a propane forge but it will be a bit before it can be made and a guy at work is gonna help me with some stuff like making a hammer.

[Mark Ling]

1 hour ago, Brez said:

angle grinder

That's one of my best friends.

                                                                                                   Littleblacksmith

[Charles R. Stevens]

Tractor supply workforce cross pein hammers in 2 to 2 1/2# require less dressing than most and are relitivly inexpensive. 

[Brez]

On 2016-05-22 at 10:52 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

I would recomend one of two things, either leave it be, mount it with a heathy bead of silicon on a 5" round post and call it a day, 11" face to bash to your hearts desire (tho 3 legs welded on like a joke stool...)

or, if your going to grind and get crazy, cut it down the middle, flip the two simi circles one over the othe and have the "waist" of your anvil fully welded. Now carve a horn, and drill pritchel holes and a hardy (think German double horn). 

In truth option one, including fabricating a bick and portible hole is less work and very workable. 

Charles, any particular reason for only a 5" round post? I have access to some decent fir tree stumps I was planning on using. As for the rest I am probably going to go the route of simplest is best as you suggested and just use it and make a portable hardy hole tool i can put in a post vice or something. Maybe down the road when I get more experience I can get more elaborate. I did understand what you meant about cutting it in half, though it did take a few reads.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[arftist]

On 5/22/2016 at 0:52 AM, Charles R. Stevens said:

I would recomend one of two things, either leave it be, mount it with a heathy bead of silicon on a 5" round post and call it a day, 11" face to bash to your hearts desire (tho 3 legs welded on like a joke stool...)

or, if your going to grind and get crazy, cut it down the middle, flip the two simi circles one over the othe and have the "waist" of your anvil fully welded. Now carve a horn, and drill pritchel holes and a hardy (think German double horn). 

In truth option one, including fabricating a bick and portible hole is less work and very workable. 

This is a good idea Charles IF the guy is going to fabricate anyway this idea would make a pretty usefull tool.

I would want the waist weld to be 100% pen though. 

[Charles R. Stevens]

Brain fart... Try 11" lol. Tho three legs would be better. 

The reason for not going bigger than the round, Is if your trying to bend something 90 it would hit the stump. 

I guess "fully welded" doesn't nesisaraly meen full penitrating dose it? Lol. In my minds eye I saw a small peice of round (1/4" or so) in between and welded up, then filled to at least a 5" square.