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I Forge Iron

Baluster Spindle made with nibbler


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Have seen these operations performed on a punch press also. There was a demo at an UMBA meeting where Beau Hickory did incising, texturing, spaced stamping on a punch press. All with simple tooling we made the day before the conference. I have also seen a punch press set up as a small shear. After the above meeting a friend of mine was doing grooving and texturing with a small benchtop model press of about 8 ton.

I bought a punch press at a sale for this purpose and one of these days when I am done rebuilding hammers I will get around to trying it out.

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Have seen these operations performed on a punch press also. There was a demo at an UMBA meeting where Beau Hickory did incising, texturing, spaced stamping on a punch press. All with simple tooling we made the day before the conference. I have also seen a punch press set up as a small shear. After the above meeting a friend of mine was doing grooving and texturing with a small benchtop model press of about 8 ton.

I bought a punch press at a sale for this purpose and one of these days when I am done rebuilding hammers I will get around to trying it out.


I would be interested to hear of your results. I have wondered how a punch press would work. I am a little sceptical about an 8t punch as my Pullmax P5 is about 12t and my Trumpf cn900 is about 22t.

Finish ... ususally I like to birchwood casey or gun blue patina with bees wax and linseed oil for protection.
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Neatguy-It all depends on the size of the impressions made. The 8T press I saw working made chiseled lines with a chisel tool approx 5/8-3/4" wide. He also made impressions similar to peening with a 3/8" ball tool and spaced impressions for a border with a crescent shaped tool about 3/8" wide. I think he had hand filed a star shaped punch also about 5/16" maybe. Worked great.

The first time I saw this demonstrated was on a 22 or 25T press and they could make a triangle shaped impression about 3/4" on a side and 3/16" deep. Cold.

Your nibbler would have a great advantage at times with the large throat depth.

The great thing is you are making these impressions with a power tool but using very simple tools that are the same size and mimic the marks made by hand hammering tools with the same profile.

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how did he adjust the depth of cut ? or was a different tool made for each stock thickness. If I were going to use a punch press for this opperation I would construct a tool holder similar to a Pullmax tool holder. There is a square collet in the tool holder and a nut to tighten it. Making the lowwer tool move and the upper tool stationary.

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Big adjustments are made by what thicknesses of plate, scrap, junk that is under the work piece. Fine adjustment is made with the screw on the punch head.

That tool holder looks handy. The tool holder on my punch press is just a clamp 1 1/2 in diameter and a couple inches deep. I have a goodly length of heavy wall pipe 1 1/2" with a 3/4" hole. I can forge or machine most of my tooling out of 3/4" round. Only need about 2" of the 1 1/2" for each tool.

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