Brick forge build. Constructive Criticism Please.

[clenceo]

I found a free metal storage shelf and decided to make an enclosure for my brick forge. Some of the bricks started splitting on me. I think the enclosure will help. 

I intend to cover the outside of the bricks with Heat Stop Pre-Mixed refractory mortar, add a second burner and add flares to my burner. It's currently running without a flare.

I've been taking my time and as I progress, I'll add my idle circuit and regulator. 

Again, constructive criticism would be nice. I'd hate to go forward to find out later that I took a wrong turn somewhere.

Thanks again to all!!

[Frosty]

The flame is nicely shaped, looks good to me. how are you controlling the pressure now? That's obviously not running straight tank pressure. Don't use the tank valve to control the flame they're not designed for it. Propane will damage the seats being forced through the narrow space. Tank valves are designed to close and not leak, NOT regulate pressure or flow volume. You can get away with it for a little while but it WILL make the valve leak instead of close.

If you can't find a regulator use a needle valve till you can.

On your next burner build don't use galvanized for the tube. When it gets hot enough the zinc will burn and zinc oxide smoke isn't good to breath The stuff is downright BAD for you.

Frosty The Lucky.

[clenceo]

Thanks for taking the time to take a look. I appreciate it very much. 

I'm using a needle valve for now. I've been researching regulators, but as of now have yet to order one.

Thanks for the tip on the galvanized pipe. I was hoping if I run it outside, it would burn off. I do have black pipe I will cut down and fit in place. 

One last question:

Should I still include a flare? 

[ianinsa]

9 hours ago, clenceo said:

 

Thanks for the tip on the galvanized pipe. I was hoping if I run it outside, it would burn off.

It will most likely burn off slowly over time, thereby giving you plenty of opportunity to inhale the noxious fumes! Rather soak it in vinegar overnight , the vinegar will dissolve the galvanized coating.

 

[Frosty]

If you have the black pipe change it out now. If you get a flame like that forget the flare.

You'll want to close the openings up some or you're just blowing heat out.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Mikey98118]

Ianinsa and Frosty both have it right. A flame nozzle on that burner would probably lengthen your flame, and in this case you don't want to go there.

[Mikey98118]

clenceo,

I would recommend a burner block instead, on that forge. Burner blocks are especially useful in brick pile forges, but homemade multi-layered burner blocks are a valuable addition to any burner design. Most burners have large secondary flames, partly because they are not designed to feed a gas/air mixture at sufficient speed to operate well with a tube and spacer type flame nozzle, and therefore the flame isn’t exposed to a double ignition source. But, refractory flame nozzles can be heated well past temperatures that would melt a stainless steel nozzle without even sagging out of shape, and unlike metal flame nozzles that must be sheltered from full furnace heat, will become just as hot as the equipment interior, inevitably producing superior combustion; they will stand up to very high temperatures, allowing hotter fuels, and/or oxygen enrichment to become practical choices in heating equipment.

    Still, building and using a burner block has its own problems, which can be reduced by employing carbide encrusted hole saws to drill through squares of high alumina kiln shelves (these are very resistant to shock from rapid thermal cycling and direct flame impingement), which can then be stacked to reach the desired depth for use as a flame nozzle, with the first layer cut the width and length of a brick, to act as the hot-face; these parts can then be aligned in a wooden form, with the castable refractory of your choice added to form a standard brick, or any other desired shape.