Charles R. Stevens Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 As p3 is referd to the coffin bone, as it is baried in the hoof, and the p2/3 joint is theiror comonly referd to as the coffin joint. But following the same naming conventions, a joint baried inside a knife handle (or between two scales) being called a coffinjoint makes sense Ain't english wonderful... As p3 is referd to the coffin bone, as it is baried in the hoof, and the p2/3 joint is theiror comonly referd to as the coffin joint. But following the same naming conventions, a joint baried inside a knife handle (or between two scales) being called a coffinjoint makes sense As p3 is referd to the coffin bone, as it is baried in the hoof, and the p2/3 joint is theiror comonly referd to as the coffin joint. But following the same naming conventions, a joint baried inside a knife handle (or between two scales) being called a coffinjoint makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Some of the black walnut might have some good grain, and the hickory too. That stuff that was yellow and is now kinda brown may be maple, which dyes pretty well. You can do interesting stuff with dyes or stains and "plain wood." Use a dark stain (like ebony) over the grainiest parts and lightly sand the surface so the only stuff colored is deep down. Then add a contract color (like driftwood which has some green/grey colors) lightly sand to create some light space, and finish off with a tan or brown, or even a orange (like osage). You might have to apply the dyes or stains with a small brush. You can get those at home improvement or hardware stores pretty cheaply. You can use this technique on smooth antler like elk. Another thing you can do with the thinner pieces is mortise out the center of two slabs to accept the tang and then glue & pin the two of them together around the tang. Sort of create a solid block sandwich handle.I'll try to get out to the shop after work and see if I can't get a good picture of those yellow scales. I'll also continue to look for the paperwork that came with it when I bought it so I know for sure. I haven't thought about the different stains and sanding between them as you suggest, I might have to give that a try.as far as the bolster, I have pretty much decided I'm gonna make/use a copper aluminum alloy along the lines of Nordic gold or aluminum bronze. They have similar make ups so who knows which one I'll actually get since I don't have tin (except in plumbing solder) like what Nordic gold needs and I don't have manganese needed for aluminum bronze. I think that either way I go it should turn out great and finish nicely provided I take my time and don't get wreck less on a new and unknown to me alloy.Charles thanks for that little bit of education. I know just enough about horses to know you gotta feed them and shoe them and change their oil once in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.J.watts Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Some of the black walnut might have some good grain, and the hickory too. That stuff that was yellow and is now kinda brown may be maple, which dyes pretty well. You can do interesting stuff with dyes or stains and "plain wood." Use a dark stain (like ebony) over the grainiest parts and lightly sand the surface so the only stuff colored is deep down. Then add a contract color (like driftwood which has some green/grey colors) lightly sand to create some light space, and finish off with a tan or brown, or even a orange (like osage). You might have to apply the dyes or stains with a small brush. You can get those at home improvement or hardware stores pretty cheaply. You can use this technique on smooth antler like elk. Another thing you can do with the thinner pieces is mortise out the center of two slabs to accept the tang and then glue & pin the two of them together around the tang. Sort of create a solid block sandwich handle.I've even used black spray paint, then sanded clean and it shows all of the grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 I got home a little early today and ran out to the shop to do what I said I would (I'm gettin good at remembering what I'm supposed to do ). I also have new handle material options thanks to a lawyer/district judge I know that has a saw mill. He didn't give it to me directly but instead it was sent to me through my father in law cannot recall what it is so ill have to ask the guy the next time I see him. This stuff is something else, it sat on this guys property as a fallen log for what he said was about 5 years but you can still cut it and shape it with little difficulty. It works almost like kiln dried oak but there is a few little things that are different. It'll finish slick at 60grit sandpaper which I find interestin. If anyone recognizes it please feel free to educate me since idk when I'll next see the lawyer.first picture is the yellow wood I mentioned before, it's about 5/16 in thick and relatively straight grained. The brown piece next to it is the other scale turned to show the natural discoloration it has after sitting in a box in my shop for a couple years. The rest of the pictures ore the mystery wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 Cliff, the first I read of a coffin joint was in Steve's book. I borrowed it so I can't look back to be sure but from what I understood its about the same thing but usually used for larger blades. Steve can you clarify this please. Are these all your blades Cliff? they are all very nicely done.well I'm not Steve, but I think that he wouldn't want everyone telling what is in his book cause then he won't make any money.mi have the book so I will ask for permission to tell you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkDobson Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) i dont see a problem using the plain wood for a knife handle, if its a user/ going to take some abuse there is no reason to spend money on nice wood. Now if you just happen to stumble into some nice wood like i do most times when cutting trees, splitting firewood, milling lumber etc etc then save it all and you will have a nice stock pile for whatever you desire. most of my beginning knives have figured walnut scales purely because it was already the perfect size and left over from other projects. cant wait to see what you do with it, looks like its gunna turn out really nice Edited October 22, 2015 by MarkDobson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffrat Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 well I'm not Steve, but I think that he wouldn't want everyone telling what is in his book cause then he won't make any money.mi have the book so I will ask for permission to tell you all.I'm glad someone brought this up. I was trying to think of a diplomatic way to say it, and couldn't be assured that I wasn't putting words in someone else's mouth. T.J., you have the good fortune to have previewed this book before making the purchase. If you liked it, and think it would help you, I suggest you buy it. A good book on the shelf is worth 1000 posts on a forum. M.C. it's difficult to tell what wood that is (some kind of looks like Tulip wood), but it has some good grain. No reason I can see that it shouldn't be worth using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/32385-knife-making-class-log-116-advanced-handle-ideas/as the inspiration for Steve came from his work on the knife chat and knife making classes here on IFI, lets just look at the cliff notes. Now, undeniably Steve put his own stamp on it, with his very clear but spare writing style, but a lot of the inspiration are here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.J.watts Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 well I'm not Steve, but I think that he wouldn't want everyone telling what is in his book cause then he won't make any money.mi have the book so I will ask for permission to tell you all.I'm glad someone brought this up. I was trying to think of a diplomatic way to say it, and couldn't be assured that I wasn't putting words in someone else's mouth. T.J., you have the good fortune to have previewed this book before making the purchase. If you liked it, and think it would help you, I suggest you buy it. A good book on the shelf is worth 1000 posts on a forum.M.C. it's difficult to tell what wood that is (some kind of looks like Tulip wood), but it has some good grain. No reason I can see that it shouldn't be worth using.I have every intention of buying Steve's book. I never really got the feel that Steve would have issues sharing knowledge as he is always helpful. If I upset or irritated Steve than I apologize it was never my intension but I think if I had he would have no problem telling me so. I understand your point and will be more careful of what I mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffrat Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Nobody said you upset Steve, nobody can speak for him, other than him. I was just making a suggestion.Before we stray too far from M.C.'s EDC project, those thinner pieces can be laminated around the tang in a mortise handle too. Glue and pin two pieces together, and you will have enough wood to make a solid handle like you originally intended. You have plenty of good options with the materials you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Yeah I meant no trouble, just like what cliffart said it is hard to put in words that don't sound cruel. What i mean is that you can always ask Steve in the chat when he comes on around 6-7 pm eastern time or pm him, but he posted some info of his book on site and my guess is that that is a basic sneak peak and if you need or want more detail then he probobly thought that is what the book could provide. I don't want to put words in his mouth and I am sure he wouldn't mind sharing a bit like he does with all of us. This is very hard to write without getting words mixed up sounding different or speaking for Steve, but I tried my best and don't mean any harm or troubles. Remember one thing, "the only source of knowledge is experience" Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 Ok, I've been in the shop most of the morning with less to show than I'd like. I tried to make up a small batch of Nordic gold for my bolsters but couldn't get the copper to melt so I have a block of aluminum and magnesium alloy with pieces of copper wire sticking out of it. So I went with something I wasn't gonna consider an option. I have a bar of clean aluminum that came off of a door and it's roughly the right thickness so I cut some of it off and started working on that. This is slow work without using power tools for more than I did (bandsaw to rough cut handle and drill press to pilot the handle before I fit it to the tang) but I think in the end it'll be nice to know it was all done by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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