I inherited a home with a Peter Wright anvil set up in a corner of the basement, and after being asked by a baker's dozen of workmen, realtors, etc. if I wanted to sell the anvil I thought I should get a clue as to what I have.

The Primary markings are "PETER WRIGHT PATENT", followed by "SOLID WROUGHT". The weight line reads "1   0   12", which a basic search suggests to be 124 (112 + 0 + 12) lbs.

The anvil seems to be intact, with no major cuts (see below), seam splits, or work surface cupping. The top is very flat and has no measurable center dip. There is some minor edge wear on the non-horn end of the anvil on the non-label side. I included a picture where the top of the anvil is capped by a commercial angle iron to show the straightness. I did not do a rebound test. The anvil does give minor "ping" when struck with a small ball peen hammer (flat face), but I hear no lingering resonance, as with a tuning fork.

There is a significant cutout at one end of the top surface on the end of the top surface, to the exterior of the hardy/ie hole (see pictures). I can see the seam between body and face most clearly at the edge of the cutout on the end of the anvil. I'm unclear if the cutout is a result from damage during use, or if it was a deliberate creation for some specific need. Also, if resulting from damage, could the roughly 90 degree cut have been a cosmetic fix to clean up a more random edge, and could the more visible seam also relate to damage?

I could not retrieve my phone picture of the full label-side face, but the overall surface (including horn) is consistent with what you see elsewhere, with good uniformity.

Feedback, please! 

 

 

 

 

The face is rather scarred, the lack of a resonate ping usually indicates a delamination issue and that missing part is a failure of the face/body bond.  Not an anvil in good shape.

Value depends a lot on location: where I live now anvils sell for double the amount they do where I used to live and *both* locations are in the USA.  What country you live in I haven't clue.  Might get better price form people looking for an "antique" decorator piece.  As a using anvil it's more of a beginner's level as the damage should lower the price substantially. I'd pay US$1 a pound for measured weight and pass it on to a new student; but I am notorious cheap...

snip... What country you live in I haven't clue.  Snip...

The clues I have gleaned indicate that it is not the UK. We have cellars rather than basements, and Estate Agents not realtors.

Pity about the lump missing. The rest of the surfaces just look a bit abused by cold working, but the corners seem fairly good.

Very useful for someone...just a matter of finding the someone.

Alan

Glad to see you included your general location in the header, saves me writing that part of my welcome aboard.

Anvils don't ring like a tuning fork but it is a distinctive sound. A visual rebound test is more accurate and a better indicator of condition. It's a simple test and a small ball pein hammer works just fine though it takes a little experience to be accurate. The idea is to drop a piece of hardened steel, ball bearing or hammer from a distance and eyeball estimate how far it rebounds as a %.

Just tap it with the hammer in a pattern over the entire face, watching and listening for "dead" place. These are obvious first time you find one, the sound will change from a ting, clang, etc. to a tink, thud, etc. it will sound dead. The rebound will also decrease significantly. For example tap the steel face near the center of the face then strike the wrought iron where the face is missing. This will give your ear and eye the cue to look for.

The piece knocked off the face at the tail was broken out, not cut out. Two bits of evidence: First, it's not a square and has the rough edges typical of broken high carbon steel. Secondly, there's no reason to do this to an anvil, any process it might facilitate can be performed on the step.

She's seen a lot of cold work as is evident by the dings in the face and horn. Being flat is a positive but not a great one.

Were it for sale in Alaska it might bring $3-4/lb. but blacksmith tools are like gold here. I'd think between $1-2/lb. would be a good price. Bear in mind I don't know your market.

Another idea would be to attend the next meeting of the blacksmithing organization local to you and see what's offered tail gating. Every meeting, hammer in or gathering of blacksmiths involves guys selling, looking to buy, swapping, etc. tools. If you aren't familiar with bargaining here's a tip. Let the interested party make an offer before you counter. Seems almost everybody who isn't a "pro" trader either high balls an offer or low balls asking.

Oh one more positive for getting hold of the local club is you'll be putting it back in the hands of people who will use it and there are probably members who can repair it. In general we prefer to see smithing tools in shops covered with scale and dust than in gardens covered in bird droppings and leaves.

Frosty The Lucky.

It might push 2 bucks a pound here *if* someone were a little desperate to get their hands on an anvil in short order.  Finding that person would take a while.  If I was trying to move it, I'd likely list it at about $ 150 and take about $ 125.  That'd have it sold (here) in a few days.  With the defects and weight you are starting to compete with the chinese cast import "beater blocks" and people who just want to test the waters of smithing.

But...as others have said YMMV.  Location Location Location.

Edited September 22, 201510 yr by Kozzy

Thanks for all of your feedback. I will follow some local ads and set my price based on anvil condition and competition. Seems that one has to weed out the highballers who troll for the uneducated or impulsive, as there are some local ads @ $6-$8/lb for unremarkable specimens. 

 

I did add my location a while after posting. It makes sense that many comments would target a particular region. Sorry about that!

Could the anvil have been in a fire? Undamaged with good rebound $300 - $400 around here.