childofiron Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I recently purchased a new emerson anvil, and I was just wondering if it is normal to have the anvil side edges ground at a slight degree inwards towards the anvil face. Basically the sides of the anvil is not at a true 90 degree angle, and the same is the same for the anvil step to face. I think the aforementioned angle inwards of sides might make it harder to forge tongs and other forged tools that need to be formed hanging over sides of the anvil. This is my first anvil, I just want to know from any seasoned smiths if this matter is going to effect anything being forged utilizing the sides to form article. I think I might have minimum effect, but just want ya guys input, thanks for your comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Yeah, that's an example of someone "restoring" an anvil by grinding off chipped edges. You'll want to radius them a little or they're going to put cold shuts in shoulders like your tongs and sharp edges are more prone to chipping.No it isn't going to have much effect on forging. If an instance occurs where it is a problem just make a bottom tool with 90* edges with a shank that drops in the hardy hole and you're golden.That's a beautiful anvil, use it in good health.If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the IFI gang live within visiting distance. Being able to work with an experienced smith will teach you more in an afternoon than weeks maybe months of learning on your own.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Let us know what you think of the Emerson anvil. As far as the edges just put a quarter inch to nothing on the edge and that girl will serve you well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Looks like they are used to dealing with the folks who don't know the first thing you are supposed to do with a new anvil is to dress the edges to the radius that will suit *yourself* and the work you will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
childofiron Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Frosty, when you say radius the edges a little, how much of a radius are we talking about? Radius in the similitude to a very dull knife or something with a .005 or .010 thousandths of an inch radius therefore. What is a save radius to have without the risk of any edge chipping. Thanks for every ones answers thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 dress the edges to the radius that will suit *yourself* and the work you will do. Some folks this will be quite tight and others will be 3/8-1/2"; others will stair step it down the edge with the large radius in the sweet spot for heavy work and tighter radii going back towards the heel for lighter work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 For me 0.0125"r is about max unless need need something specific. The big thing to remember is to NOT leave a sharp corner on an inside bend as it'll act as an initiation point for failure just like a scribe mark on glass. This is known as a "cold shut."I see Thomas got ahead of me again. Like that's an accomplishment. My main anvil's edges taper from almost no radius to about 0.0125" not that I measured them. My Trenton has some larger radii but it was "repaired" in a past life.Just breaking the edges will go a long way towards preventing chipping.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Hammer control helps a whole lot too to prevent chipping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
childofiron Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Thanks a whole lot Thomas and Frosty for your recent replies, your posts were very informative. I shall start to break the anvil edges this week coming. You guys are great, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Good Morning Frosty,Is the radius 0.0125" or do you mean, Max 0.125" radiusSometimes you want a big radius, sometimes almost square, depends on the situation. Bottom Line, Don't create "Cold Shuts". They make pieces fall off.Mr or Miss Child, do a long gradual taper, larger radius where you will be working the most (over the waist). If you need an extra large radius, make a Hardy Tool with the larger radius, if you create a special groove in your anvil, it is difficult to take it back out!!Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Evening Neil. Yes sir I recommend a maximum of 1/8" radius. If a person has to ask they don't really know what THEY need yet so I lowball the number. It's easy to widen the radius but a real BEAR tightening it back up. Once a person uses a tool for a while and get an idea of what they need they can start modifying them. it's easy to take steel off. Putting it back without damaging the anvil is a whole new trade and learning curve.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Hence the mention of making a hardy tool with a required radius large or small. Size it right and it can have *4* different ones. If your anvil is large enough you could do 2 per side and get 8 different radii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
childofiron Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Yes Neil it is Mr. Everyone I think I shall start with a very light to medium radius as this anvil is to make shop tools and small parts. If I shall be forge larger articles I shall start to increase the radius accordingly or if need be relative to the mass of the work make a special hardy tool with the correct radius therefore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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