VaughnT Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I've had this on the "to do" list for ages and finally got around to putting rubber to the road.The blade is 1080 from Admiral Steel, water quenched and tempered to a nice bronze (twice). The handle is a section of a limb off my plum tree that a freak ice storm brought down.I used hemp thread for the wrap instead of sinew, and coated it with hide glue to help weatherproof it a bit. The wrap is recessed into the wood so I don't have to worry about it going anywhere.For the blade, I was trying to go for something that resembled knapped stone or a leaf. I was hoping for the former, but would have been satisfied with the latter. I didn't quite get what I was going for, but I'll not kick her out of bed for eating crackers!The pitch glue is just to cover the end of the handle. I used Gorilla Glue to secure the blade in place, no pin, and will be curious to see how it stands the test of time.All and all, I think Otzi would like her. She's very comfortable in the hand, not too big or too small, and seems to be holding a decent edge. Now I need to work on a sheath! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I like it very much, somewhat simple and primitive but not to the point of looking poorly done. I like the way you used hemp cord and pitch. I've never seen anything quite like it but now I think I might have to try one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 nice one, love that style!Are you going to do a sheath as well? One of those like KT does come to mind, rawhide type....but that stuff is tuff to work with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 M try finding some pictures of the old neo-tribal metalsmiths work, including Tim Lively and Tai Goo for instance. Stormcrow's work here is very nice too.People might be interested in looking up the Tim Lively washtub forge; a homebuilt charcoal forge very good for forging blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Thank you for the kind words, gentlemen.The hardest part about making this knife was keeping the primitive look . I see a lot of "primitive" blades that just look like they were made by intoxicated chimpanzees, and too much sanding and polishing on the handle would have clashed mightily with the rough steel. You can still feel some of the gouges left by the flint scraper that helped shape the handle, but they are very fine and don't stand out to the eye.I half expect the wood to check a little bit because it still had some moisture in it. Part of me wants a check or crack to help bring out the primitive feel a little more. I can always wrap the break with some rawhide to make it look like a field-expedient repair!As for the sheath... well, it just happens to be the right month to pull Poplar bark, so I might go that route. I've got a slew of home-made rawhide (calf and deer), so I could go with some of that over a leather core. Absolutely at a loss for the design of the sheath, so I'll most likely wait a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 (edited) Gorilla glue might be fine as long as your fit is pretty good... it becomes a weak foam in larger gaps and fails easily IME. If you hot set your tangs, you won't need any glue. Make your fit such that the tang will not fully seat cold. Then heat the tang and seat it as it melts its way in! The resins in the wood will be your glue and the compression of the fibers in the tang socket will make it stronger than the rest of the wood! Practice with some scrap to get the tang hot enough to melt in with little or no charring... charring will ruin the glue effect and weaken the socket. Tangs should have a slight taper for this type of fitting. Leave the tang surfaces rough for a better connection. I usually step drill the tang socket to get my rough fit. Softer woods will compress quite a bit but very hard woods only slightly. Therefore the prefitting of the socket needs to be closer to a cold fit with the harder woods. Edited August 1, 2015 by bigfootnampa spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 M try finding some pictures of the old neo-tribal metalsmiths work, including Tim Lively and Tai Goo for instance. Stormcrow's work here is very nice too.People might be interested in looking up the Tim Lively washtub forge; a homebuilt charcoal forge very good for forging blades.I've been watching storcrow here and another forum but ill have to look for the other two. I've heard of them, just don't think I've seen their work. I'll also look up the forge because I might see somethin to incorporate into mine. A rawhide holster would look good but I'd never be able to make it work right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Tai and Tim are the two makers who have had the biggest influence on my work, though you won't confuse anything I make with theirs. Another fellow to look at is Rik Palm, who has done a number of steel-bladed Otzi knives. His sheaths for them are finger woven fibers like the original. http://www.rikpalmcustomknives.com/bladegallery/otzi.html I like how yours has turned out. Looking forward to the finished up sheath and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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