Jbrown515 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 I have been using a small whitlox forge Link to forge (using primarily hardwood charcoal) pulling it in and out of the garage, i want to build a chimney/hood so i can put it inside. But have no idea where to start. The forge itself is 16x16x9What flue size should i use?And what type of hood should i use? (i was thinking an overhead with enclosed sides around the forge so sparks/ash are more contained)Any thoughts/advice would be very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Lots of infor in the flue/chimney section of solid fuel forges. Start with a 12" flue and bring it right down on the table next to the fire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 That's a nice looking little forge. A side draft hood will work a treat though You'll need to rig a support. I'd start with 12" dia. black steel stove pipe and a "T Cap". A T cap simply fits into the end of stove pipe to block it, typically used to block one leg of a stove pipe T last time I bought one they were called a bushing cap but Google just looks at me funny when I search that term. There's an 8" one at Ace Hardware here. Link removed How it works is by making a shelf that will support the 12" T cap and a vertical arm to support the chimney off that. Pop rivet or sheet metal screw the cap to the shelf. This will need to be right off the back end of your forge, the helper is the front the air feed is the back. the next trick is to cut an opening in one end of a piece of 12" stove pipe about 2" from one end. Just make cuts in the pipe and leave the trimmings attached these will open like doors for a side air dam and one lift up like a little hood. Sighting down the center of your forge cut another opening a couple inches square on the far side. This is a "pass through" so you can heat the center of long pieces without fiddling around. Make the total height maybe 6' and there it is a side draft forge hood that'll suck the flame sideways and up. If you were to put some nice smoking wood in the back of the fire you could smoke sausages, hams, etc. in the chimney for a tasty lunch. This isn't really much different than Charles's suggestion, just how I'd do it is all. Frosty The Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I realy like the one that used the peice of 12"od pipe, the guy cut a hole and added a little eyebrow, then droped a 12" stove pipe in it. Clean and sweet. Tho TP, Tenatius and Uri have perficaly servicable ones as well, very KISS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbrown515 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Link removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Not the prettyest girl at the dance but it gets the job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitlox Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Hi-- we use this chimney as a sort of a hood/insulator for the forge at home and at shows, mostly for start up. We have not worked it up as an option on the forge, but you can see how it is made: a plate of steel, bent at edges to span the forge. A collar is welded to that to support 6" diameter stove pipe. It is not exactly an effective solution as an indoor hood, though. At some point we will probably offer something like this as an option because it is handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbrown515 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Played around with sketchup, going to go with a side draft (12 inch flue) with a hood partially covering the forge. (Basically what frosty described) Thanks For the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) You want to bring the opening up a bit, say 6" above the top of the fire, as its a nice little portable forge, hang the flue independantly and you can just grab the forg and go to a demmo or play day. Turn the forge sideways so you can pass a long bar threw the fire with out cutting a hole in the back of the flue. That may get the flue high enugh. Edited July 27, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbrown515 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Is this what you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Bingo, now you work from the side. Edited July 28, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Sketchup used to be so much easier to use. <sigh>I like the side mount better, no need to make a pass hole. Just keep the section you cut out and perhaps make a little hood at the top of the draft opening. I assume the forge simply sits on the stand so it wouldn't be hard to make a bracket off the "back" to hold the stack. Preferably something that broke down easily for transport.The thing to remember winkling these things out is to try and keep it as simple as this little forge.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Bottom of the chimney should be closed.Top of the chimney should be open.Height of the chimney affects the draw or draft. Edited July 28, 2015 by Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitlox Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 I know this is very old news now, but we just came out with a hood for the Mini Whitlox Wood-Fired Forge: Link removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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