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New Wakizashi and bronze habaki


Bubbasan

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Are you using Aldo's 1075? That's a really nice hamon, and the sori is really visible - not something 1075 is known for although I know that some low manganese variants like Aldo's are shallow hardening enough to get these kind of results. Also, out of curiosity, what was you quench medium and temp?

-J

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Are you using Aldo's 1075? That's a really nice hamon, and the sori is really visible - not something 1075 is known for although I know that some low manganese variants like Aldo's are shallow hardening enough to get these kind of results. Also, out of curiosity, what was you quench medium and temp?

-J

Hello JW., Yes its Aldo's steel .I quenched in Parks 50 . Temp was right around 1475-1500 F Just a bit past non Magnetic. I did not use temp gauge I go by color and such. This particular 1075 was a special order from Aldo , pretty low in Manganese.

I really like the results I got . Although it's a crap shoot when doing traditional claying and quenching and luck is a factor . As I get older it seems I break fewer blades .

 Ordered some extra when I bought this steel, enough for 20- 25 blades. Guess I will be making some things from Aldos steel for a while.  He also has some really nice low mang. W-2 that is also very good for Hamon.    Aldo quite a guy , easy to deal with ....      James  

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He also has some really nice low mang. W-2 that is also very good for Hamon.    Aldo quite a guy , easy to deal with ....      James  

I just go a nice hamon to show on his W2, it's a little trickier than just slapping some clay on it though. Normalization is the key with his W2 - 3 cycles, first around 1560 cooled to black, second around 1475 cooled to black and the last at around 1430 cooled to ambient temp. This is one of the reasons I might just have to throw another high temp electric oven together. :)

-J

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Normalization and Polishing skills are the key to a vibrant Hamon . Tempering Japanese style is also key , as they use a flash temper that does not affect hamon

Heat is the biggest enemy of a good hamon.     regards    James

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  • 3 months later...

Here are pics of finished shirasaya. Turned out allright.  I normally don't make saya during warmer months because wood soaks up moisture and when it dries out saya can shrink

and make it rattle a little . This wood was dried for 7 years in Japan  .  I kept the wood inside where it is nice and dry so It didn't shrink.  Thanks for looking ........     Bubba

new Honika wood  for shirasaya 003.JPG

new shirasaya 001.JPG

new shirasaya 012.JPG

new shirasaya 008.JPG

new shirasaya 011.JPG

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