Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Recent knives.


Recommended Posts

I just realized I haven't posted anything in a long time. Here's a few I've done over the past few months:


Forged this seax a while ago, and yesterday I finally decided to finish it. It's made from a large old file, hammered to shape. I chiseled in a fuller on both sides. The blade is 7", and the whole knife is 12" long. The handle is made from brass, elk horn, and wood found in my yard.



Made these a while ago, one's for me and one for my wife. Both made from old Nicholson files. I made the micarta from felt and fiberglass resin. The blue and brown one's mine.



I'd been wanting one of these for myself for a while. The blade is 14", making it 19 1/2" overall. The steel is leaf spring. The handle consists of aluminum, steel, elk horn, and some wood I found in my yard.



Ever since I started blacksmithing, my dad's been begging me to forge a big bowie knife. Well, I was never really a fan of bowies, but after watching a whole lot of Hell on Wheels, they've grown on me. It started out as an old farrier's rasp. I did a mixture of forging and stock removal on this one. The handle consists of brass and a special micarta that I made from leather, felt, pecan shells, and tree bark. I really love how this knife turned out, so did my dad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those were the only pictures I took  before I gave it away. It looks really nice close up though. I had a layer of leather in there, but if you try it, leave the leather out. It delaminated and the resin wouldn't hold it. After it dried I had to epozy it to the micarta to get it to work right, but it was a hassle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If those points have a slight radius to them, or they are in a more tempered area they will be fine on a sword like that. Having multiple sharp notches along the hardest part of the blade like the rasp knife can be trouble. I had a file knife crack in several places during quenching, each crack was where a tooth was. A notch or corner in and of itself is not a problem, the shape of it is.  Sharp is bad, radiuses are good.


Take a piece of paper 1" wide and have someone hold the other end. Take a pair of scissors and cut a sharp vee notch in it about 1/4" deep. Now both of you pull on your ends. Next take another piece and cut a 4 to 1 radius in it IE; 1/4" deep x 1" long and see how much stronger it is. Now cut it even deeper to see how much strength it retains even when it is deeper than 1/4" 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see what you mean . Although the Hamachi is a 90 Degree angle and the munemachi is a 90 .  The spine or mune  is pretty soft  maybe 30 - 40 rc  where as the Hamachi

is hardened to 60 or more .It has a lot to do with support of blade with the Habaki  . I do see

an occasional blade made with verticle Grooves similar to a blood groove over the complete


. Most of those are chefs knives ( hocho) The vertical grooves are there to stop sliced food from sticking to knife .hollow_edge.thumb.jpg.94e062d7bedc80251f

There are also cleavers made for hard chopping with same grooves . I can see additionally that grooves with uneven or irregular grooves not clean and polished could be a problem with a chopping blade.  James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...