Bakeforger Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 (edited) I built the gas forge pictured, I read about a few different types of burners and thier capabilities, I decided to go with the 1" burner design shown. I used a 1 1/4" tee and a .030 mig tip, the tube is about 11-12" long and goes directly into the forge just down to the inside of the chamber. Inside dimensions are 2.5"x 4"x 9". The burner seems to flutter a lot as well, spitting fire out the front. And just runs very inconsistent. The way I have it set up I am running about 20psi and still cannot get the inside of the forge to get hot enough to get to a nice yellow hot it just gets to a orange glow. Any suggestions? Edited May 8, 2015 by Bakeforger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 It won't come up to temperature because you have a 1" burner feeding into a 90 cu/in forge, call it 8x the burner for the volume. The burner's ratios look pretty far off as well but it's the back pressure that's really killing performance.Make a 1/2" T or side Arm and it'll bring that volume to welding temp. You'll need to close the ends a little and use something other than hard fire brick or it'll take forever to heat up. For the volume you have, a 1/2" burner is about a 50% surplus of burner but not excessive to the point of restricting performance.Frosty the . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 If you do your reserch and build the 1/2" "t" burner you might even get the guy who desighned it to help you. But you have to do yourhome work and ask atleast simi nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Not to mention that a hard firebrick forge may take over an hour to come up to full temperature where as one made with an insulating refractory may be ready in 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakeforger Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Thanks for the feedback! I will definitely be doing some research into the 1/2" burner. Also what type of insulation or "insulating refractoy" should I use and where would I find it?Not to mention that a hard firebrick forge may take over an hour to come up to full temperature where as one made with an insulating refractory may be ready in 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I just listed the basic ratio for building an ejector type burner like your Side Arm in another thread. I'll repeat them if you can't find it. The jet that works well for a 1/2" burner is 0.023" - 0.025" mig contact tip. The basic how to for a T burner is in the gas forge section of IFI.A brick pile forge like you have is a fine forge design. If you use a split hard fire brick for the floor and light insulating fire brick for the rest you'll have pretty good luck.Another type is a cylinder lined with Kaowool or equivalent ceramic blanket. Again a hard, tough floor will make it live a LOT longer, a split hard fire brick or kiln shelf work very well. A good kiln wash on the fire contact surfaces of the forge will keep them in good shape longer.ANY gas forge can benefit from a kiln wash, high zirconia wash is preferred as it's really bullet proof where welding flux is concerned. ITC-100 is pretty much THE kiln wash. I have it on the flame surface of my forge but the stuff is just too expensive for me anymore. It's over $100.00 a pint/lb. + shipping and I just can't afford it anymore. Our club bought zirconium silicate bulk and we're experimenting with a matrix material to stick it to the flame surface.Sorry, I get carried away and you really just need something simple to get you up and working. Light fire brick with 3,000f split hard fire brick or kiln shelf for the forge floor. Figure the volume and shoot for between 100-150 cu/in volume and you'll be golden. There are a LOT of examples of simple light fire brick forges in the gas forge section of IFI. Take a lunch, something to drink and a comfy chair there's weeks of good reading for you there. A couple days worth in the forges sections.Don't hesitate to ask me questions but do some reading first please, it'll make it faster and easier for both of us.Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 What kind? The kind that has been mentioned *hundreds* of times on this site already. Where to get it? I don't even know what country you are in so all I can say is the last stuff I got was for free at a scrapyard a goodly ways over thataway---where I'm pointing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakeforger Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Thanks guys! I made Frosty's t-burner today and lined the forge with ceramic insulation, lit it up and worked great? Just curious the temp got really high however the heat seemed very localized, should I add a second 1/2" burner towards the rear to add heat to the back end of the forge? I just listed the basic ratio for building an ejector type burner like your Side Arm in another thread. I'll repeat them if you can't find it. The jet that works well for a 1/2" burner is 0.023" - 0.025" mig contact tip. The basic how to for a T burner is in the gas forge section of IFI.A brick pile forge like you have is a fine forge design. If you use a split hard fire brick for the floor and light insulating fire brick for the rest you'll have pretty good luck.Another type is a cylinder lined with Kaowool or equivalent ceramic blanket. Again a hard, tough floor will make it live a LOT longer, a split hard fire brick or kiln shelf work very well. A good kiln wash on the fire contact surfaces of the forge will keep them in good shape longer.ANY gas forge can benefit from a kiln wash, high zirconia wash is preferred as it's really bullet proof where welding flux is concerned. ITC-100 is pretty much THE kiln wash. I have it on the flame surface of my forge but the stuff is just too expensive for me anymore. It's over $100.00 a pint/lb. + shipping and I just can't afford it anymore. Our club bought zirconium silicate bulk and we're experimenting with a matrix material to stick it to the flame surface.Sorry, I get carried away and you really just need something simple to get you up and working. Light fire brick with 3,000f split hard fire brick or kiln shelf for the forge floor. Figure the volume and shoot for between 100-150 cu/in volume and you'll be golden. There are a LOT of examples of simple light fire brick forges in the gas forge section of IFI. Take a lunch, something to drink and a comfy chair there's weeks of good reading for you there. A couple days worth in the forges sections.Don't hesitate to ask me questions but do some reading first please, it'll make it faster and easier for both of us.Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Is it in the same forge with the burner aimed straight at the floor? If you want the chamber to heat evenly you have to aim the burner so the flame forms a vortex and distributes the heat. Even then it will have a hotter and cooler zones.One of our guys has a forge shaped like a mail box with the burner aimed up through the floor along one wall. It has pretty even heat and I was surprised how little fell into the burner.Can you post another pic of what you have now?Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 As was previously mentioned there is a set amount of volume a burner is able to heat. How does the volume of YOUR forge compare with the volume YOUR burner can heat? If you want us to do the math please ship your forge to the Texas-New Mexico-Mexico border point and I will measure and calculate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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