LastRonin Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Made this Sunday after my weedeater died. I like it better. works great. Piece of a coil spring and an old carpenter hammer handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I extend the tang on mine. Creating an extension of the reach that keeps me from bending as much. They'll spoil you for weedeaters! Mine have less curve in the main blade area with a good curve at the tip. The longer reach also increases swing speed. By keeping a very sharp edge I am able to reach close to buildings and trees or posts sliding my blade into position and then taking a quick snatch cut! This makes for less blade damage and more safety for the obstacles! So... some ideas for your next ones! Forge on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 BTW... my tang extensions are about 20". Kind of like the shafts on golf clubs. I bend the shafts at the base of the sickle to get the right cutting angle. I like a slightly saw toothed edge that grabs the grasses, so I do the honing with a fairly coarse stone or diamond steel... an old way was to leave the scythe hang on the porch overnight and let the dew slightly rust the edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 That would make a great picture for" what's the caption" That sickle looks like you could sell to druids for mistletoe harvests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LastRonin Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Bigfootnampa: Because I had read your post on that topic, it originally did have about a 24" haft... then I made the beginner mistake of trying to adjust the angle cold... "TINK" followed by inappropriate for this forum declarations of my stupidity. So, back in the forge to draw out the 2" piece that was left into the tang. Tried to mitigate it some with the long handle. Ianinsa: Nah, those are supposed to be silver. At least the ones used for important ceremonies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 also the beginner mistake of hardening the tang and the transition area. Not needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LastRonin Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Yeah, that was completely unintentional. Gotta be more careful how far I dip the next one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 and do a full draw of temper on the tangs anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 So you have 22" to try again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I have made mine out of steel that is only about 35 points carbon. I now regard this as a mistake! In future I'd like to use about 1090 steel. The kids here have seriously damaged the edges on one that I left in sight... I ground most of the nicks out and it cuts pretty nicely again. Of course, no steel is going to take abuse without degrading the edge. Since I prefer a VERY SHARP edge, I think the 1090 type steel tempered back a bit will give me a more durable edge! I have some old mower blades targeted for making a new batch of scythes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I'd go with 5160 and remember that the blade is a consumable. Of course if you are doing a regular yard vs rough work.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I do remember that scithes are sharpend by first peining the edge, so one assumes a relitivly soft edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 One would assume that, Charles... NOT so though according to "the Scythe Book"! He says that European manufacturers use something close to 1085 or 1090. I have considerable skill with mine and can swing them pretty close to visible obstacles with amazing accuracy... trouble arises when a steel stake or spiky stone is hidden within a copse of tall grass! I tilt mine down at heel a bit when swinging close to a sidewalk or some such, so that the blades back edge drags first... mostly works pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Thomas I would like to have a stock of 5160 but have never run across a particularly enticing source. I do have a few old leaf springs, but am quite unsure what they are made of. I've passed on some beauties that must've sprung dump trucks or railroad cars... 1/2" + thick leaves bundled in 300 + pound stacks!!! I just couldn't handle them! Been kicking myself since! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LastRonin Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 I'd go with 5160 and remember that the blade is a consumable. Of course if you are doing a regular yard vs rough work....Regular yard work. No brush thicker than 1/4". I used it for about two hours and don't need to re sharpen it yet. So I'm happy with it for what I made it for. Now, when I get ready to tackle the back lot... I think I'll follow your advice and find some 5160. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LastRonin Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Also want to thank all of you guys who have given me some of your valuable time by posting replies, ideas, suggestions and such.Shoot, I'm one of those who can take snarky, sarcastic remarks for the humor they're meant to be. (Been known to make a few myself.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Bigfootnampa, 1090 is relitivly "soft"in its anealed state is it not? Will a file cut your schythe? One would think that would be the reason one would use a "Soft" edge to prevent chips and breaks, nicks and dings being unavoidable. This is of corse from an armchair veiw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.