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New forging press


whodoamb

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It looks good and cool, BUT, it looks a bit er .... flimsy ???? Now I'm no expert wrt. Hydraulics but I've built and own a large number of different hydraulic powered machines. That piston looks like it could 'push like a herd of Randy buffalo bulls' and all that potential power is 'held together by 4 dinky bolts and 2 micro flanges at the base'?

Whodoamb, I mean no disrespect here and you may be(possibly are) a hydraulic(and structural engineering)  guru, so if I'm wrong please enlighten me(learning is good) , I have always been a firm follower of the 'rather way over than way under engineered school of thought '

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I thought the same thing about the flanges on the cylinder,but it has a column load rating of 58,900 lb. The little tab's are 2 inch by 3/8 1045 per spec's for cylinder. Bolts for guide plates are 3/8 grade 8. Bottom mounting and top slide mount are 1 1/2 thick. Uprights are 2 by 3 by 1/4 doubled to make a 4 by 3, Bottom mount 6 by 1/2 plate sandwiched between 2 - 6 by 4 by 1/2 angle 13 - 3/4 inch plug welds per angle. 

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No there is 1/4 inch space between cylinder and mount. You have to realize that the pin is hardened so it ether has to break the pin or stretch the hole. Nether has happened yet thought I have only gotten to use it once, see photo 3/4 inch straightened coil spring.                                         

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  • 1 month later...

Looks good, can't really see from the pics, but if your using the factory cylinder mounts, with the rite pin you shouldn't have a problem.  There have been some pins sheared that shoot out like bullets though, that's why mine has a deflector plate in front of the cylinder mounts, but then mine more of the clayborn style and the pin is at eye level.

Only thing I see is maybe adding a die plate retainer, had one pop out on mine when doing some off center work and it punched me in the gut, no damage to me, but didn't feel real good.  Looks like you've got bolts in front, wouldn't take much to make a keeper/latch for the die blocks.

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Bolts in front are shoulder bolts for a toggle latch. Just need to get some the proper length. See pic of first billet started as 9 layers,5 - 1084, 4 double layers of 15n20, Currently at 81 layers,one more draw to 243 then on to a knife! 1084 from Aldo, 15n20 from free bandsaw blades from day job,see pic.  

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100_0153 (Copy).JPG

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Just a little piece of unsolicited advice, if I may. I would change the die holding setup so that changing dies could be done very quickly. Get rid of the bolts and weld the top plates so that the space below them accepts the bottom plate of the die almost perfectly. Then put a stop at the back end of the slides so the die cannot fall out the back. Then weld a semi-circular handle on the front of the die so you can pull them out, hang them up and slide them back in easily. I find my self needing to change dies constantly during a single forging, especially when making Damascus. I change from my welding dies to my drawing dies, to my squaring dies, to my straightening dies, then to my cut-off dies, while the billet is coming back up to heat. No  down time changing dies.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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