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I Forge Iron

4X4 Anvil


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it's very nice; but US$4+ a pound? Sounds like jeweler's tooling over smith's.  The curved edges for fullering are a nice touch on that one though and the weight is fairly good for an early medieval anvil of sorts.

I think I'll stick with the 20 cents a pound chunks from my local scrapyard.  Might be worth sourcing a used forklift tine and cutting it in chunks. (Makes me feel I should have picked up all the chunks at the scrapyard and maybe a 9' long piece of 3.5"x3.5" and find someone with a cold saw or shaper...)

 

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Lots of big heavy oilfield stuff out there!  How about a drill sub?  Start calling around oilfield welding companies and telling them what you need and would like to pay scrap price + a six pack.  Also bulldozer repair places, crane repair, forklift service places.  (I started smithing in OKC back around 1981)

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All the pictures I saw was of a round tube with tapered threads on one end. All the pictures show it as having a hole down the center. I couldn't find a flat place to lay the steel on. Unless their OD is deceptively large, then the non tapered end would work. Or is there a flat milled in the center of the OD somewhere?

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Don't let the hole bother you, it's not in the way. You only need an anvil face a little larger than the hammer face. A lot of subs have a tool joint for a wrench rather than a chain tong but even that isn't necessary. For flat or straight forge in line with the sub, for a curve forge across it. Standing it on end lets you forge against the ends, the box end should have a reasonably large flange end and that's flat enough. the pin end is smaller but still plenty large. I'd have to be looking for a creative new texture before I tried forging on the threads.

For comparison, a sledge hammer head makes a fine anvil, about as much as humans have been forging with for millenia. Modern day Japanese swordsmiths often use no more than a stake anvil, 4-5" across.

Frosty The Lucky.

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To answer the original question that began this thread; I do. I am very happy with it. I have had much larger anvils. I have found no drawbacks to using this anvil, unless you can't live without a hardy hole and a horn. I don't see this as a problem, as I rely on hammer and anvil only. To each his own.

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Chickasha pipe and steel over by the east viadock has some nice chunks on the south end, including a 5-8 acorn plate baried in the dirt.

if you hit up the old boy on the south end of town by chickasha manufacturing he my have some goodies as well, but he can be contamckeris. Their is an outfit over in maysvil making 6"+carbide faced end mills, they may have som dropes. Ask one if the tractor dealers about broken axles and such...

even a 2" drawbar will work in a pinch (and the ones with 1 7/8, 2 and 2 5/16" balls have some neet options)  

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One more thing. The gentleman who runs Old World Anvils, is an honest a man, as I have ever dealt with.

​Did you meet Bob Bergman in person? I got to meet him in 2002 I believe it was he had an orchard of Power hammers, I'd LOVE to have been able to buy one of his Nazel 2s, perfect for what I do. I don't know if he's still rebuilding them though.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yeah Frosty, getting hung up on the hole is exactly what I was doing. 

Thanks for the info Charles R. Stevens, I will certainly have to check them out! I was starting to get discourged, I called like 3 or 4 scrap yards around me and none of them sell back to the public any more.

And I appriciat the review Donnie, thank you.

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It's easy to get stuck on a thought, happens to us all. I've never had access to a sub large enough to use as an anvil, the large rod for us was N. The casing jack now, that puppy made a dandy anvil, used it a lot till I made my first rail anvil which was a LOT easier to carry over to the camp fire.

Frosty the Lucky

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