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I Forge Iron

Keep the Change - Mokume


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When it comes to Mokume you can keep the change... 

PLEASE, before you get frustrated and think that you can't make Mokume because your coin billet has cracks consider the issue may just be the starting point. 

I have made lots of coin Mokume successfully and this last couple weeks I have been using sheet metals instead and I just want to say I will never go back to coins.  to really make a nice solid reliable weld with coins there is WAY more prep work than just using sheet metals like a pro. 

in the same amount of time and a LOT less worry, concern and lost hair I made this using copper and brass. it is just a rough finish for now as I have plans for this billet.  this is way more solid and reliable that any I have made before out of coins. 

IMG_0956.thumb.JPG.c68b889541c693acd396a

 The process is the same. clean, clamp, heat and beat. but the temp is way lower than nickel, so watch that heat or you get a puddle. 

again if there is anything I can do to get you addicted to Mokume, please let me know. happy to help. 

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Teeny - what did you end up using for sheet and what supplier did you get it from?

 

​I lucked out with the Brass, it is some shim stock I had laying around, but I am told that 260 cartridge brass or 230 rich low work well. I am placing an order soon for some so I am not constantly scrounging around for it. the copper is just C110  I got from a local fab shop. 

Frosty, I have tried copper/silver and promptly caused myself an issue.  I will be doing more of it now that I have more of a feel for it. it is one of my favorite combo's . 

On silver/ brass - it is a common combo but it is super low temps to make it. some of these guys make silver copper and brass together and it looks gorgeous.  

 

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Now that's a billet! Really nice work there, certainly justifies the effort in the prep phase!

not to imply that i actually have a solid clue what the brass alloy I have in stock actually is, but isn't cartridge brass very stiff, bordering on brittle?  If that's the case it might make that particular combination more difficult to forge than a softer alloy.

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Thank you. I am pretty excited, feels like a whole new world opening up.  

Honestly the prep work is less than I was doing to get nice solid results from coins. I was surprised at the speed that this billet came together.  With sheet you need to freshen up the surface right before you wash. Using a powered scotch brite pad on a large piece of sheet metal is really a breeze. A few quick cuts, wash and degrease and you are off to the races. 

On the brass I asked an experienced person for their recommendations because I am needing to buy some myself .Cartridge brass as we are familiar with in shells is of course work hardened, if you have ever dug any out of a fire pit you will see how soft they really are. 

Once my brass gets here and I knock out some more I will share. 

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Powered scotch bright pad?! Working the whole sheet before you cut it?! Witchcraft!!! Heresy!

sounds like a solid procedure, automate and economize wherever possible.  Remind me what your preferred cutting equipment is?  Iv been using a jewelers saw (sloooow) or shears (much edge cleanup and flattening) but I have been eyeballing a portaband, so there is hope for the future!

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A jewelers saw is slow, especially with this qty.

i use an 8" plate shear I got from grizzly. Does a good job. No big curl on the edge. While I do not recommend them aviation snips used properly have their place . Here is an excellent tutorial Frosty shared with me. I thought I knew how to use them before I saw this.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qAOQfUaRZyw

someday I will own a stomp shear. Then you will see me doing monster size stacks.

when done you will still need to trim back all the edges on your billet and for that a bandsaw is fantastic. I have a cheap 4x6 and while it is a bit junky it is still one of the absolute best tool purchases I have ever made. Payed for itself many times over just the very first year alone. I would only get done a fraction of what I do in a year without it. So I say yes, get that portaband! If you can stretch and get a 4x6 you may really like the auto shut off feature so you can get other things done while it cuts for you.

 

 

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I took a few look at my notes from the demo I watched on Silver/Copper Mokume and saw a few things that might be of interest to you. The first was the alloy of silver that was used was Argentium Silver. Looking up the alloy it is a Stirling Silver with the addition of Germanium as well as the Copper. It is especially noted for its resistance to firescale and tarnish and increased ductability. The demonstrator said that it weld better than any of the other Silver alloys that he had tried. Perhaps the increased ductability help to keep the layers from delaminating. Second he wet sanded the sheets prior to clamping in tork plates. Once a layers was wet sanded and rinsed it was placed in a bowl of distilled water - I think it was distilled water - to keep any oxidation from happening while the rest of the sheets were cleaned.

Here is a picture of the billet before it was cut up to make rings:

74978

Edited by kubiack
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