smihammar Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Im updating my hammers from C45. Any input on H13 vs S7? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupiphile Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 if your making them yourself I'd be looking hard for some 4340, s7 as a second choce, h-13 if someone was paying you..... a goodly chunk of money. Take care, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 More information on size and type of hammer, amount of use, etc; please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 We've use EN26 with good results. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 FX2 from Finkl http://www.finkl.com/products.aspx Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smihammar Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Thanks for feedback. The dies is for hammers 15-75 kg . Flat , combi, fullering and crown dies. Im have a company making the dies for me. Here is the durability and quality that counts :) I made some dies myself some years ago of H13, Its hard to machine I must say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan richman Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I've got some S7 cut into 2x2x3 just for dies if that would work for you. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmitho Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Have used forklift forks with good result, i know its an unknown but they respond well to an oil hardening, an are common to find in large dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacobd Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Have used forklift forks with good result, i know its an unknown but they respond well to an oil hardening, an are common to find in large dimensions. Were you able to cut them with anything other than a torch? I have a small one and tried horizontal bandsaw, chop saw, plasma cutter. I just didn't want to have to grind off the ugly torch marks along the cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 really? I've cut lots of bits of fork lift and I've used my horizontal bandsaw (nice sharp blade helps) and angle grinders before I got the saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I have had really good luck with forklift steel too but you need to aneal it first to cut it with a saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJergensen Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I have had really good luck with forklift steel too but you need to aneal it first to cut it with a saw. That's quite a chicken and egg problem ;-). I can only anneal small pieces. I can only cut annealed pieces. So, in your experience, does it air harden or can you soften it enough by bringing it to heat and then air cooling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmitho Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Good bimetal blade on a slow feed bandsaw works for me 100%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 likewise :) I don't think I have ever annealed a piece? I could't saw close to the place it was gas axed from the main beam, but the rest cuts fine on the bandsaw (slow, but I only have a small saw!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Did the forks require any special treatment before using them as dies? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 i've mostly used mine for anvils, so they have all been heat treated (well the first 1/2" or so of the face certainly). I did make some flypress tooling from a bit and I should've heat treated it, after a few months they got damaged beyond use :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 So yes then basically. Cheers Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron quake Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 S7 works very well for hammer dies. I costs about the same as 4140 and you don't need any quenching medium, as it's air hardening. A 3x3x6" is $79 through Hudson. You can temper with pretty good control in your kitchen oven at 550f and get good results at 55Rc. Perhaps a bit harder than you'd like but it works well for me, as long and the features are not to fine. I don't know why you'd ever use H13 for a hammer die. I can't see the die ever getting to a temperature you'd see deformation with S7 or 4140 / 4340. A great material for true hot work however. There is a great heat treat paper on line on the Tidewater Blacksmith site if you need the information presented in simple easy to follow manner. http://tidewaterblacksmiths.com/heat.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.