01tundra Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Hey all, I'm getting ready to build an in-ground forge for the larger, heavier work I'm starting to get into and was just wanting to put my plan in words and gather some opinions/advise. I have access to free, large-bore, Sch. 40 steel pipe scrap so that's what the design will be based around. Was going to use an old excavator bucket, but they are usually very deep, plus I can get any size from 1/2" to 24" diameter pipe scrap for free off our jobsites. I'm planning on cutting a piece of large 14"-18" (?) pipe in half lengthwise, about a 2' long piece. I can get any length, so maybe 3' long would work better, not really sure where the line of diminishing return is on fire box length (If I can heat a 3' section of work stock, but only have time to forge 2' before the piece cools off that would just equate to a waste of fuel). Then will weld 1/2" plate end caps onto it. I'll cut a hole in one end cap and run a piece of 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" Sch. 40 steel pipe through the end cap and the entire 2' length of the forge body, welding the air pipe to the end caps. Planning on drilling somewhere in the range of 3/16" holes in an array across the top of the pipe, the air pipe will be mounted about 1" to 1-1/2" above the bottom of the forge body to allow for space clinkers to fall/settle (similar to the my portable forge that has proven to be a sound design). For air I'm planning on using a variable speed pet dryer/blower (non-heated). The one's that I've found within a reasonable price are metal bodied and have a range of 0-100 CFM or so (http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Force-Steel-Commander-Variable/dp/B005J87DN0/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1415200372&sr=1-8&keywords=variable+speed+pet+blower). They make variable speed blowers that move a lot more air, but surely 100 CFM would be enough to supply a fire box of this size adequately (that's actually a question)? I want the blower to be portable so I can keep it inside out of the weather when not in use. Planning on burying the pipe in my gravel driveway with a small lip above grade to keep water runoff out. Thinking that I'll bed the hole with gravel and drill drain holes in the bottom of the pipe, but will also most likely fabricate a lift-off cover for it. So........does this all sound like the makings of an epic fail and waste of energy :lol: ? As always, I really appreciate everyones input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 what fuel? Why not add pipe legs to it and have it at a convenient height? Save time and effort getting up and down with 3" stock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 what fuel? Why not add pipe legs to it and have it at a convenient height? Save time and effort getting up and down with 3" stock! Sorry - coal. Was just thinking about insulating quality of the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 If you can score a 32" piece of 24" just set it in end and fill it with dirt, brings it up to you and iton age iron work was only done in 6" heats anyway. From there its a hop and a skip to Glenns 55 forge. With this you can go from a simple fire bowl, belows stone or termite mound forge in a relitive little time. One can even use a "T" caps and a couple of niples to make a temp. Lively style. Gives you a lot of versatility, and a good standup working hight. I've seen an ilistration of a farm forge made from a larg peice if cast iron waist pipe, compleat with flange. I think it was "farm blacksmithing" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 For reference, I already the coal forge below. I was just thinking about making something simple and with a longer fire box for longer work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 I don't really get the working on the ground part, unless its a very pre industrial forging setup or the long forge is for heat treat on longer blades. For occasional use heat treating swords, that would be fine but for regular forging use all that squatting and stooping is going to get old. Starting out on my sixth decade I like everything in the smithy at about anvil height: Tools, forge, vise table, swage block...even my quench tub is raised up off the floor. Forge you have is beautiful! love those wide steel wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Sorry, as usual I got ahead of myself and didn't do a good job explaining the entire situation / intent. I can easily build pipe legs for it, I was just trying to keep it out of the shop and out of the way since this would only be used occasionlly and would not be my primary forge. But with drain holes & a cover it could easly sit behind my shop on legs, so that's probably a better solution. My primary forge is a gasser, my forge for heavier work is my current coal forge shown above, this new one would just be for the rare occasion when I'm working with really long/heavy material. I understand the concern about it being at ground level and I had not factored that in until now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Much clearer. On option is an adapter that sets diagonal to your coal forge or just build another gasser, lol. You can get fairly long bars heated by moving the stock back and forth threw the fire zone (like running a rose bud back and forthe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Redesign #1 - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L Smith Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I have a 30" maybe 36" round cement lined forge with a hand cranked blower (in storage). That I have heated and straightened round hay bail stickers. Just have to pile up more coal. Bought it off an old farm lady. Her husband bought it from sears decades ago. I think you may be going to deep. My .02 worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01tundra Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 I have a 30" maybe 36" round cement lined forge with a hand cranked blower (in storage). That I have heated and straightened round hay bail stickers. Just have to pile up more coal. Bought it off an old farm lady. Her husband bought it from sears decades ago. I think you may be going to deep. My .02 worth. That was one of my main concerns. Of course I could make adustable height end plates to accomodate different uses? Maybe 12" dia pipe would work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 If your going to the trouble, why not build a larger conventinal forge? Say a 32x60"table with either a 1 1/2" sideblast or a 11" firebowl? This gives you one big coal forge that you can adapt for differant prodjects, wile your at it build a 2 burner gasser. I have straitened more than one set of 2" bale spiked in my 2 burner (18" of heat zone) Small and large gassers are realy good for production and critical heat ranges wile i find my solid fuel rigs to be more fun and better for odd shapes And they are adaptible, a few fire bricks, heavy angle or c channel plus a fadricated adaptor to spred the air and you can adapt your solid fuel to the job at hand (see "the compleat modern blacksmith" for an example of adapting a rivit forge to heat a track anvil) Dont get me wrong i have more than one forge, and im not oposed to diging a hole and using a 12 volt bed inflator to make a teperary forge either but if your some what limited in space adaptability as opposed to a selerat rig might be the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Many years ago, I built a long forge to heat treat anvil faces. I found that a slit worked better than a bunch of small holes in the tuyere and eventually settled on a slot 22" long and 1/2" wide. This was hooked to a 400 Champion hand blower and could easily provide a long, even heat if the fuel was managed properly. The design was nothing more than a piece of 3/8" plate about 3'x4' set on legs; the slot was cut in the top of the plate and a piece of 4" pipe (which had been cut in half lengthwise) was welded underneath, capped and plumbed for the air and ash dump. A friend of mine borrowed it for long twists on pickets and it worked great for that work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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