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I Forge Iron

1095 & 15N20 Hunter w/1084 core


rhitee93

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I made this knife as a gift for a coach who has made a big difference in my daughter's life.
 
The blade was going to be just 1095 and 15N20, but I ended up with a big flux inclusion when drawing out after the second round of welding.  By the time I cut out the bad part, I was short on material.  I drew what was left out to about 8”, cut it in half, and welded the pieces on either side of a piece of 1084 - san mai style.  I was pretty diligent about keeping the hammer blows even on each side after this step, but the result is still a bit off center.  The blade was quenched at 1500F in 140Fmcanola and then tempered at 400F for 2 hours.
 
The guard is nickel silver, the handle is a piece of ash burl, and the pin is 316 stainless.
 
This is my 3rd knife attempt, and the first time I have tried a knife with a proper ricasso and guard.  I’m really new at this, so feel free to throw out some constructive criticism.
 
I’m starting work on a sheath now.  I’ve never done leather work before, so this should be an interesting experience.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
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Great answer rhitee. Enough said. Btw, that's a terrific knife.

Flux is a contaminant, ie, possible inclusions. If you have a controlled forge, there is no need for flux when welding flat bars. Welding cable is a different monster. You can get a clean and better weld with out flux, and it's a simple process. Research fluxless damascus welding. If you are having problems after having tried it, just post a request.
John

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Great answer rhitee. Enough said. Btw, that's a terrific knife.

Flux is a contaminant, ie, possible inclusions. If you have a controlled forge, there is no need for flux when welding flat bars. Welding cable is a different monster. You can get a clean and better weld with out flux, and it's a simple process. Research fluxless damascus welding. If you are having problems after having tried it, just post a request.
John

 

<script type="text/javascript"> // I remember reading and then seeing a video of a guy who used kerosene. When it flash burned off in his gas forge it created a layer of carbon around the piece. Gives enough time to get welds with no oxygen making too much scale.

 

I don't know too much about this stuff having never done it but he had good welds it seemed. Just interesting really.

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Thanks for all the compliments. I learned a lot, and will bring those lessons to bear on the next one.

 

The flux issue was interesting.  I am pretty aware of the flux-less welding that people have been doing.  I had actually intended to try it that way, but seeing the scale form when I removed the stack from the forge and put it on the anvil caused me to chicken out.  I'll get around to trying it that way soon.

 

For the other novices out there, here is my encounter:

 

I realized I had some sort of inclusion because there was this darker spot when the billet was otherwise up to temp.  It almost looked like a bubble or bulge in the billet.  I figured I had nothing to loose so I brought the hammer down on the spot with heavy blow, then a lot of molten flux splurted out the side.  It created some cracks in doing so That I ultimately decided to cut away.

 

Had I been a bit more careful in welding from the center out, I wouldn't have gotten the inclusion...

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Rhitee if you see that shadow again when forging up a billet....before the unrelenting hammer blows try driiling a small hole in the center of the void. If it is a flux inclusion it may correct itself if it has a place to go.....Are you seeing what I'm saying here. :)

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Rhitee if you see that shadow again when forging up a billet....before the unrelenting hammer blows try driiling a small hole in the center of the void. If it is a flux inclusion it may correct itself if it has a place to go.....Are you seeing what I'm saying here. :)

Well, that makes a lot of sense... 

 

Some could summarize me by the following:

Intelligence - I have. 

Street smarts - Well,not so much.  

Common sense?  Naw, I don't carry spare change...

 

FWIW, here is snap-shot of the finished sheath:

IMG_3237_zps2108d5c0.jpg

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