Loking for anvil ID and advice

[Tim Ryan]

I just came into possession of this anvil.  I am totally new to blacksmithing but it's clear this poor thing has been abused.  I would like to know who the maker is and what, if anything, I can do to clean it up and  put it to use.

 

 

Foot is marked with "P" and "P"

 

 

I can make out English weight markings of 1 1 12 which is confirmed by its weight.  I can also make out the word "wrought" encircling the middle weight marking.  It also appears that there is additional stampings above this, but I can't make it out due to the abuse.

 

At best, I plan on using this as an enthusiastic ameteur.  My initial thought is to maybe try to true up the top  and grind out the worst of the abuse on the horn.  I have a tame welder who is willing to assist me to fill the major damage to the edge.  But, I thought I better know what I have before I start altering it.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Crazy Ivan]

Looks like a Peter Wright to me. I don't see much of any evidence it was abused. One bad hammer blow broke the edge off and it is small in relation to the rest of the anvils usable edges. The Horn looks strange to me, might just be the picture but it looks like it had the tip broken off at some point and repaired with an oddly shaped bit. Could prove useful however. Use it for a year, then decide if it needs to be fixed, but from where I'm sitting, that looks to be in much better shape then some folks on here use and they still make some beautiful work. Do NOT grind the top. Using it will smooth everything out over time. Also, do not try welding it unless you really really needed to (which again, I personally don't think you do) without understanding pre-heat temps, welding process, post-heat temps and duration of post heat while maintaining the proper heat the entire time. You can easily destroy a perfectly useable anvil if the welder does not understand anvils and the welding of tool steel. That anvil has been in service since before you were born most likely, it would be a shame to make it worse trying to fix something that does not need to be fixed.  Thats my 2 cents.

[Nobody Special]

I'm not the expert, but peter wright I think. They definitely did that bit with the wrought around the number.

 

I wouldn't mess with it much. The chip out of the edge could be useful, and the rest of em look fairly clean. The marks on the side won't hurt anything, probably just from upsetting or bending with the cold end against the soft wrought sides of the anvil. And the horn? Somebody's saved you the trouble of making a cone mandrel.

 

Clean it with a wirewheel or wire brush to remove rust, light coat of oil on the sides, and put er to use. That'll clean the face up nicely. When not in use, put an oily rag on the top, and keep indoors if possible.

[jmccustomknives]

That's a fine one there, not abused.  Like Ivan I think the tip of the horn has been modified.  In my best Yoda voice, "Beat with a hammer for 50 years you've been, better will you look?  Hmm?"  ;)  Really, I've got three anvils, yours is just about as good as my best.  (it's 70+)

[Tim Ryan]

Thanks for the quick responses.  The consistency in your responses reassures me.  I was a little worried I had maybe let my enthusiasm run away with me.  I haven't had much luck finding an anvil in my budget here in North Dakota.  The few I have looked at were 50's and 60's vintage cast ASOs (Am I getting that right?).   When I saw the English marks and the word "wrought" on this one, I jumped on it.  The reason I described it as abused is that there are many, many chisel marks and other marrings on the face and horn that (based entirely on my book learning here and elsewhere) seemed to be caused by cold work.  I will try to get some better pictures of these marks to get further input from your guys if I should just use it or if there needs to be any dressing done.

 

Thanks again.

[the iron dwarf]

use it to improve it.

[arftist]

Thanks for the quick responses.  The consistency in your responses reassures me.  I was a little worried I had maybe let my enthusiasm run away with me.  I haven't had much luck finding an anvil in my budget here in North Dakota.  The few I have looked at were 50's and 60's vintage cast ASOs (Am I getting that right?).   When I saw the English marks and the word "wrought" on this one, I jumped on it.  The reason I described it as abused is that there are many, many chisel marks and other marrings on the face and horn that (based entirely on my book learning here and elsewhere) seemed to be caused by cold work.  I will try to get some better pictures of these marks to get further input from your guys if I should just use it or if there needs to be any dressing done.

 

Thanks again.

You seem reasonable which is good. Smart too to ask for advice before acting. 

That is indeed a Peter Wright as noted by the unique ledges on the feet. 

A very popular anvil, part of it's strength (the harder than usual top plate is also it's greatest weakness; the super hard top plate of a Peter Wright anvil makes them more prone to edge chipping than most other brands. 

 

We wouldn't lie to you son, that is a right fine anvil you have there. It needs no "dressing" Dressing will only detract from it's function,  longevity and value. 

 

Truly, the best thing you can't do is work hot metal on it. 

 

The chisel marks all about the body indicate that a somewhat less than scrupulous smith demonstrated the superior hardness (or sharpness of his chisels. "Look how deeply it cuts into the anvil! You know how hard an anvil is don't you?" 

[John McPherson]

You call it abused, I would call it lightly used and 95% PERFECT. Abused is when more than half of the face is gone, or the horn or heel is missing.

 

The pock marks on the side affect nothing, and just give it character. If they stick up enough to snag your jeans or cut your bare hands, run over them with a knotted wire wheel to dull the edges.

 

A light hand and a fine grit flap wheel on a cheap grinder will even out the marks on the horn, but so will taking a rounded face ball peen hammer and massaging it gently for a few thousand hits. (I say a cheap grinder because a wimpy 3-5 amp is less likely to do damage than a 10-15 amp hogging grinder.)

 

It has some minor damage to one side of the face plate that could be repaired with S7 filler rod and TIG, but even that might soften the face around it. Best to use it for a year and then see if it is still a problem worth fixing.