Slingblade Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Been a while, i made this today with my dad on my new brake drum forge. Far from done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caintuckrifle Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Looks pretty good from where I sit, one suggestion: clean up the jaws of your twisting wrench (or whatever you are using) and you won't get those marks in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I like it !! keep it raw like that , not great knives but great novelty items , I sell quite a few , nicely done !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slingblade Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Yea that was my plan, just makin it to look at. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 While I'm not a fan of RR spike, knife shaped objects I readily admit they sell well and can be excellent projects, I just call them letter openers but that's a personal thing. <wink> A couple little tips I've found generally useful. I do the twist first then forge the rest down. It makes the transition from twist to the remainder smooth and more natural looking. It also prevents over heating thin sections to twist thick. That leads to a more fundamental rule of thumb. Forge the thick sections first and work to the thinnest. You will NOT burn a section 5/8" thick, your twisted handle on a spike knife, planishing a blade under 1/4" thick. Do the reverse, bringing the 5/8" thick sq. stock to twisting temp can indeed burn the snot out of the blade. When you twist you must keep in mind the final profile, especially if you have a finial feature to coordinate with. Whether it's a scroll, a leaf or in this case a spike head you need to remember where it's going to be when the twist is finished. Keeping count of the twists is good or in the case of my other technique, of twisting THEN forging the piece you need to plan for the finished profile. How many turns there are in a twist makes a real difference in the final look. Straighten twisted sections on a wood block with a wood mallet. I buy wooden baseball bats at yard/garage/etc. sales for making mallets and sheet metal forming hammers. Glad to see you again, keep at it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Nice looking. Bill Epps goes through the process like Frosty describes about the twist first, but he ends the twist 45° off angle (on the bias) so the corner of the spike is the start of the blade edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slingblade Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 This is the finished product, sold it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenshrimp Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Slingblade Very nice!! mitch4gings suggestion of starting you blade on the bias after you do your twist is a easy way to start cause it make it easier (for me) to get the blade shape. imoa Keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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