Shanty and Hobby Smithys

[caintuckrifle]

I am looking to build an open air pole barn type shop and am looking for pictures and advice if anyone has done this sort of thing. Lets see your hobby shops!

Thanks, Caintuck rifle

[njanvilman]

Whatever you build, build the biggest structure you can.  My pole barn builder hears from every client that their biggest mistake is not going bigger than what they did.

[jmccustomknives]

Whatever you build, build the biggest structure you can.  My pole barn builder hears from every client that their biggest mistake is not going bigger than what they did.

:o  My little shop is 20 x 20, I haven't seen the floor in years. :blink:

[Glenn]

Build so you can expand. 

 

Orient the roof so you can add onto the same roof line later. The 20 x 20 can then become a 20 x 40 or 20 x 60 by building onto the existing building. Consider putting in the floor for the next section now. That area will be very useful whether or not you put a roof over it later.

 

When you build the floor consider anchor points for pulling things into or around the shop.

 

Build the ceiling tall enough for the tools you will need to put inside, power hammer, Jib crane, etc.

 

You may want to consider roof ventilation such as opening panels (think green house ventilation).in order to vent some of the summer heat. 

[Roy Ubu]

You're going to have fun. 

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38020-pole-frame-shop/

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38019-pole-frame-shop-36x24/

[coldironkilz]

Those are great suggestions Glenn. I have a few regrets about my shop, that I will have to live with.

[Stephen Olivo]

Nice things to think about.  I enjoy the stone building that we demonstrate in sometimes as there are plenty of stone shelves to put things and you really don't have to worry about the walls burning also it tends to stay a bit cooler.  Some sheet metal angled out from the bottom also helps in those shops with wooden walls.  Keeps the hot metal from hiding and starting a fire.  I like the comment about anchor points as a person whose job it is to move large machines around and place them precisely you can really avoid a lot of head aches by planning ahead with anchor points.   A jib crane or bridge crane can really make a space more usable as well.  You might want to have a floor plan already designed before you build so you can place all your heavy items within a few steps of each other but most importantly the forge.  Plan a separate room for finishing (cold or bench work) and a separate one for grinding.  I am a fan of the half walls that have a counter weighted shutter for the other half.  Makes it much easier to open the smithy and make use of the natural wind to cool off the place.  On top of that makes you feel more like your outside enjoying the good days when still in the smithy.  Plan for extra forging stations not because you will ever need them but if you do have a hammer in or just a couple of friends stop by its nice to have a dark place for another forge to be in and especially ventilation already taken care of.  Thats another thing.  venting is important along with places for fire extinguishers and a good easily drainable slack tub.  A shower is also nice because if your anything like me you get really dirty playing at the forge and its nice to not drag all that in the house when your done for the day.  Plan lighting like skylights or other ways of getting enough light by the anvil and tons of light by the bench while still keeping the forge in relative darkness.  Nice barn doors would be good as well or carriage doors.  Stock storage should also be thought about ahead of time and how to get to the cutter to make it into the bar lengths you will need.  There are also types of flooring you may want for one part and others for other parts.  End grain wood blocks make for a nice floor where your going to stand for long lengths of time like by the anvil.  

 

 

I don't have a shop and I have been thinking long and hard about what I would like to have some day.   

[Frosty]

When I erected my 30'x40' red iron steel shop it was getting crowded before it was weathered in. Build it as large as you can, build it easily expandable. Shed roofs can easily turn into peaked roofs twice the size and going longer is as easy as adding more trusses. GOOD ventilation, electrical outlets, the more the merrier and put them on several circuits and light, lots of light. Sure the common preference is for dim light so you can judge temperature so put the lights on several circuits so you can turn some off. It's easy to turn a few lights off if you don't need them but you can NOT turn lights on if they're not there and you need the light. As you get older you need more light and experience will teach you to judge heat under different conditions.

 

Floor anchors are good, real good, I've described my gozintas enough times I won't be boring you with another repeat. It's just so very handy to have a grid on 4' centers of 2" sq. receiver tubing cast in the cement floor. My Little Giant stays put even though it rocks back and forth like normal. It's anchored to a gozinta and just rocks a little. Sweet.

 

How you going to heat it? The best time to think about it is when you're building. Windows are nice too, natural light and extra ventilation. I sure wish I had windows in my shop but I didn't pay the extra and. . . <sigh>

 

I've rambled enough, much more and I'll be designing another shop, like I need another shop.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Glenn]

Concerning light.

You will need general lighting and work station lighting. Everyone things about wall switches as the cure. Do not build that box and then try to think out side the same box. Wall switches are good, but you need a main power breaker box at the door. Wire a small Christmas type light into a fixture on the outside of the building and wire it into the breaker box. At a quick glance you can see if the indicator light is on meaning the power is on, without leave hour home. Even a 15 watt bulb will put out a lot of light on a dark night. 

 

On the inside of the building, hook the lights up so the electrical switch is near the work station. I have at least two light fixtures mounted on the ceiling using outside flood lamps and a motion detector for each major work station, such as the work bench, and the acorn table. This way I can turn that work area on or off, and when on it stays on only is there is movement. At each station the cross lighting eliminates the shadows and makes everything visible.

 

To enter the building throw the main breaker and the overhead lights come on. Go to the work table and when you flip the switch on the table leg the flood lights come on as does the motion detector controlling the lights. Flip the second switch and the electrical outlets on the table become energized. That way you can use the outlets even when the work lights are off. Make a pot rack for over the table to hold tools, electrical outlets, and a general purpose light if needed.

 

Yes it is a lot of lights but remember they are only on if there is movement in that area. When you leave throw the main breaker and KNOW that everything in the shop is dead, no electric to worry about.

 

Build a angle iron frame and put it on wheels. Cut a piece of plywood or use lumber for the deck. Weld a ring to the middle of each side for pulling. You will be surprised how handy it is to move things. It can be 2x2 feet or the size of a pallet, your choice to fit your shop. 

 

Remember to put electrical outlets where they can be used for outside projects, maybe a couple of outside floods for after dark.