Swords9023 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Good morming all, I have just recently made a sushi knife for my friend for some practice. It was coal forged from 1084 H. Carbon steel and properly hardened/tempered. I put on a mirror finish but find that upon slicing hot foods, rust blooms instantly appear and give the blade a wacky "tie-dye" look. Is this something that can be avoided with treatment? Or will the blade need to be cleaned between cuts? Im still an apprentice so thanks for any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoRockNazz Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Carbon steel is going to form an oxide layer after regular use - the acids in food are going to accelerate the process. You can clean and oil after every use and still see it form. That mirror finish is impressive... but oxide on the surface is going to show and soon, especially if used in the kitchen. There are surface treatments, like bluing or DuraCoat, that will drastically reduce rusting... but then will ruin the look. When you give it to your friend inform him/her on proper care, and although it won't be shiny long, it'll give him/her decades of use (generations of use if given TLC). You giving that puppy a handle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Special Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 On my carbon steel kitchen knives, (most of which I got and treasured years before I started any kind of forging), I find it helps to clean, dry and oil immediately after use. That goes double with an acidic food like lemons or tomatoes. No dishwashers, and no leaving 'em in/near the sink. Another thing that seems to help is don't toss them in a drawer with a bunch of other knives. They rust faster, and get dull faster. Better to get a knife block or magnetic strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swords9023 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 TheoRockNazz Thank you so much for the info. I will let my friend know to take some pictures before he uses it and that the blade will pick up some "character" over the years. I riveted/glued on an Oak handle however i used wood gorrilla glue instead of an epoxy. I deeply regret it as the glue expanded way too much and gave it a really low quality appearance. However, since this isn't going to be a show knife I suppose its ok. It's got a very keen edge and should cut through most foods without issue and at the end of the day that was my purpose. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swords9023 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 I find it helps to clean, dry and oil immediately after use. That goes double with an acidic food like lemons or tomatoes. No dishwashers, and no leaving 'em in/near the sink. Thanks for the advice, I will see that these steps are taken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Any glue that oozed out could be removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Generally a lot of handle shaping is done after the scales get applied allowing you to deal with such issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swords9023 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Any glue that oozed out could be removed I shaped the handle after it was dry and I got it all off. My problem was that the handle wasn't completely flat and it left spaces in between it and the wood. Not a mistake I will make again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoRockNazz Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Pictures! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swords9023 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Pictures! :D Pics above :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swords9023 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Good day everyone! My name is Zach and I'm an apprentice blacksmith with a focus on Blade-smithing. Below is a sushi knife that I have just finished for my friend. Stats: Made in my coal forge from 1084 H. Carbon steel. Riveted/Glued handle made of Oak. 14 3/4 in. long overall. Blade 9 in. Tang 5 3/4 in. 1/8 in. thick. Blade was shaprened on Japanese water stone and stropped on a leather belt. Honed on glass. Handle finished with Tung oil. Brought to mirror finish. (needs to be patina 'ed) Problems: The blade is not strictly straight. Close but still just a bit bent at the handle. (quench was successfully done without warping though :) The edge varies slightly in width from point to heel and the drop point is not a smooth taper. I used wood glue in addition to the rivets which expanded way to much. Next time an Epoxy will be used instead. The tang was not completely flat which caused some space in areas of the handle between it and the tang. Other than that I think it looks ok. What do you guys think? I need any advice or guidance. Thanks all. Threads have been merged since they are the same subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swords9023 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 I wish it would let me post this in Knife making so i could get some feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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