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Found 94 results

  1. This was filmed way back in May just after I made the tomahawk mandrel video.. I haven't been feeling inspired to produce videos so this video has minimal edits. 1 to be exact. Been to busy with other things. I left in all the mistakes. which I usually do. It's part of the fun.
  2. Hey folks, hopefully this doesn't get buried in the shuffle but I had a couple questions about things that I have access to and if anyone has any input. Firstly I can get my hands on ferric oxide powder. I did a few searches without any results as most what came up was about scale. This is a very fine and dry red powder. Also on hand are blanks that go in piping. They are anywhere from 1/4 inch to half inch thick and various sizes. The only marking I see on then is the size. Ex: 2" 150 . Not sure what they're made of and if they could be any good. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hello all, I'm excited because I have just picked up my first 'real' anvil. It was quite cheap but has to be better than the improvised 'H' beam I have been using. It has a raised casting saying 'HEYFIELD 1CWT' and that's what it weighs. I live in Australia so maybe pretty obscure. It has an obvious casting line and doesn't appear to have a hard face-plate. It looks old "It was my grandfather's" said the vendor. It rings beautifully but has only about 50% rebound. However, right in the working area there are a few hammer marks, semi-circular divots about 1/2 to 1 mm deep. Otherwise the face is flat and quite true. What advice? Live with it as is or attempt to fix. If you think I should 'fix' the face, how? I'm tempted to hammer the hell out of it and see if I can re-form the metal. I am very new to this so I would appreciate any wisdom. I'll post pictures soon. Cheers, Simon
  4. Hello there, this is my first post to the I forge iron forums. Thank you for any help you can give me in advance. I'm working on forging some rapiers and I have run into an issue. I cannot find for the life of me a website that I can buy some thick sheets or plates of steel for forging out these large clam shell guards. I'm really bad at finding anything on the internet and up until recently I've only ever used salvaged steel in my work. If there are any of you out there that could point me in the right direction of where I could find something like quarter inch thick steel plate I would be very happy. Also, any recommendations on what steel I should use for this guard? It shouldn't be taking much of a beating so I want to be able to do detail work to this to pretty up the piece. I live in Jacksonville Florida so if any of you live nearby and could offer some name up of areas where I can a quote materials that would be very helpful as well.
  5. Hey guys, I've been looking online and I've seen a few videos on various methods of how to copper plate brass and other things without the need of electricity. I am making a large wire sculpture and wanted to try copper platting, but since the sculpture is huge (6 ft long and 2.5 ft wide) electroplating and chemical baths submersion seem difficult. I've seen a lot about copper sulfate , but is there a formula where you can make a spray/ paint on solution to copper plate steel wire? I'm using 9 guage cold rolled steel. I have already heavily wire brushed it and applied non reactive degreaser. Thanks!
  6. Hey guys, today I got a new anvil that I bought from a colleg of my father for just 25$. It was covered by thick painting but I removed it and was able to reveal some signs. I also made a video about the sound and the rebound. Perhaps one of you can indentify this anvil and say me what steel/iron it is made of and how much it actually is worth. Here it becomes interesting! I think that the top letters say "1824" -> if that is the production year this is almost antique o_o. And the middle ones seem to say 44 1/2... in kilogramms this would fit pretty good. And there is also a touch mark that looks like a square with two hashes on top. Here I marked the letters that I think I was able to recognize with Photoshop: I was actually impressed by the good rebound! You can also hear the sound (although it got a little scratchy from the microphone in real it is pretty clear!) Ok I would be glad if you can tell me something about this anvil. For me it is a nice little anvil I may take with me to demonstrations or other events that need a portable anvil. Yours - Daniel you may get more answers if you asked in the anvil section, I will relocate for you
  7. Ok so I built a shop recently for blacksmithing. I needed to make a chimney set up so I took an old water pressure tank and used it as the hood. I have 6" chimney single wall going above the roof. The hood opening is 13" tall and about 14" wide. The hood is also resting on the forge. Anyway when I tried using it smoke did go up the chimney but some would puff out towards the top of the hood. The smoke buildup is not good and hard on my lungs. So my question is what am I doing wrong here? I did a little reading on threads and other websites about the chimney needing to be at least 10" or the hood needs to be lower. I can't make the hood lower without cutting more of the tank off because it is resting on the forge. Or should I scrap the hood and buy a professionally made one with 10" chimney?
  8. So I have been using a hand crank coal forge for some time now and have been getting tired of starting and maintaining the fire. I've been looking into buying a gas forge and have looked at Majestic Forge and Diamondback forges. After reading some threads in here I decided magestic was poorly made and couldn't weld easily. I looked at Chile ones too but that is out of my budget. I want to know if any of you have had problems with a diamondback Forge (I want the 2 burner blacksmith model). Or if you think it would be worth my time and money to just make one and buy the burners then any advice on insulation would be great. Also, I want a forge that can do some good welding. I want to try some Damascus in a few months.
  9. What is the chemical composition of the steel 2cr13? And does it go by another name?
  10. First of all let me introduce myself, My name is Christian, 16 years old and I am from the Netherlands, I've been blacksmithing for about half a year now, mostly making simple knives. My question is, does anyone know what are very common items (like rasps or springs) that contain nickel? I really want to try my hand at making Damascus for my knives. I find it very challenging to find the right steels I need for my work, that is also why I use leaf springs for all my knives. Thanks in advance for everyone's help
  11. Hi, I am new here, and only moderately experienced in blade making, and have been curious as to whether you could use screwdrivers to make small carving blades or maybe just very thin ones. I have used them as makeshift hot chisels for decorative forging, with mixed results, I also get used ones for about a few pennies a piece so if it is a usable material I would like to utilize it. Thanks for your time and responses!
  12. Hello All...I found this piece of metal with the profile of a railroad track. It's marked "Bethlehem" and "L.V. 80". I'm guessing it's from Bethlehem Steel and possibly the LV is Lehigh Valley and the 80 is 1980? Im less than an hour from Bethlehem so that's why I'm guessing this. Any ideas on what it is?
  13. Hey, I need the least complicated way to build a stainless steel hollow ball with a large radius. Like the one in the image. Can I get some ideas?
  14. I've got a few questions that I need answered. I've tried asking at other places, and people just freak out when they see 'galvanized' and proceed to lecture me. I know it's dangerous stuff, definitely not something to trifle with. But, here lies my issue. I just put up a wood fence around my yard, and so now I've got a load of old chainlink piled up. I have read that chainlink is typically made of aluminum or galvanized steel, and that galvanizing can and will wear off, given enough time. Now I know the stuff I have has to be ferrous, because it's all a dark reddish brown color, with pitting and flaking apparent all over. I looked up the markings and numbers on the fence posts themselves, and from what I can gather, the fence was installed sometime in the late 40's early 50's. That's a good 60-70 years ago. Given that amount of time, would it be safe to assume that all the zinc is gone, posing no threat? Does galvanizing penetrate into the steel below or does it simply bond to the surface? Some of the fence posts are rusted, but with risen patches of a silvery metal, what I assume is the zinc layer, leading me to believe it bonds to the surface. I would really like to hear from someone with years of wisdom on this subject. I just can't pass up all this free steel, but if it's better to scrap it then so be it. My plan with this stuff, if it's safe to use at this point, would be to cut the chain link into small pieces and melt the bits in a crucible to form usable chunks that could forge welded together, if only just to practice these processes. I assume the steel used for chainlink isn't tool grade steel, probably pretty soft, yeah?
  15. So ive built my first charcoal forge with a controlled air flow with a 1200w hair dryer. And i was just wondering, at an estimate how hot you think this forge could be getting at? And also with this estimate how long it would take for a railroad spike to reach cherry red colour?
  16. I have been playing with a WVO fueled Burner in a pile of bricks as a furnace. Had a bit of a disaster when I went to melt some aluminium and burned through the steel crucible in about 4 minutes.
  17. I have built a brake drum coal forge and have started trying to work a piece of steel from an old barbell into a spoon chisel for wood carving. I know it's probably too complicated a job for a beginner, but I'm a "dive right in" kind of guy. The problem I have is that the steel doesn't seem to stay very hot and workable for very long. When I pull the steel out of the coal it is red hot, but not a glowing bright white or yellow that I seem to see when people are working mild steel, and it cools pretty rapidly making my work that much harder. Is there anyway I could tell if I was heating it too little or why it won't stay workably hot for very long? Any feedback or help is greatly appreciated! I'm eager to get into this and make some cool stuff!
  18. I work at a forge which has a collection of old farrier tools, , masons tools, and assorted old tools, as well as a bunch of old wrought iron bars removed from a fence that's about 75 or 100 years old, I made a few fire strikers from some of the old farrier rasps. The teeth on these rasps are not all in nice precise alignment like a modern rasp so my guess is they were hand made. I heat treated to non magnetic and quenched in water. They do not generate sparks when struck with a sharp flint. I have made dozens of similar strikers using 1095 and/or modern farrier rasps and never had a problem, I ran a couple of tests. I made quarter inch notches on either side of a two inch wide rasp and then fully hardened it. I tried breaking it on the anvil with no success so I put it in a vice and tried to break it using a four pound hammer, I could not break it, It was not at all brittle, just behaved like a well tempered spring. Most of these will harden well, but rarely will any of them generate sparks. Does anyone know what they might be made of ? Thanks PS I have used mystery metal occasionally and get consistent results. Almost always bad. .
  19. Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone has any idea on the metallurgical specifications on an L-shaped lug wrench or at least what is typical for them. I was helping a friend get rid of some garbage at one of his rental properties and came across an old lug wrench and thought it would be suitable to make a knife with. I did a spark test and it appears to high carbon steel. My guess is W-1 or some other kind of tool steel. I'm more curious than anything as to what they make these things out of but some insight into what this stuff is made of could help with an optimal temp range for heat treat. Thanks guys I will post pics of the knife!
  20. someone I know works at a factory where they produce prosthetic arms/legs and what not I got this from him AMS / AM5 maybe "I think that's the manufacturer and not pictured on here it says (1250) 1200 series steel or something?
  21. My dad and I went to a metal working shop looking for something we could use as an anvil. We ended up buying a 12in x 12in steel slab 1in thick. We still havent figured out how we are going to set it up. Any ideas on how we can set it up? Also, the slab gets scratched by a file so i dont know if its hardened. If someone could help me, i have multiple questions and could use the help. thank you
  22. This “bar light” was designed for a custom space and had a few key design elements that had to be achieved for the customer. 1) Had to light the bar, grill, counter,sink area well enough for a person to operate there safely. 2) No direct light can shine into the faces of people sitting around the near by fire pit. 3) Needed to be decorative but not block the view of the river that flows by the gazebo 4) Fit inside the log truss that forms the one of the 8 sides of this 40+ ft Gazebo 5) Have dragonfly’s. Original conceptual sketch. The light would actually be a piece of art that hid with in it a light. it is 14 ft across and 5.5 ft tall. Design was approved, not having a fabrication table large enough the concept is drawn out to scale on the shop floor. Next I cut the broad leaves, and Dragonfly's from 3/16" sheet metal and forge them in to shape. The 3/8 round rod that will make up the vines gets hammer textured to give it a more receptive look to the human eye. Using wire I am able to measure the length of the vines, cut and shape them to match the drawing. The pieces are then laid on the floor in their respective places. Once all of the pieces have been cut, textured, forged, and descaled I weld them all in place. I moved the piece on to a table at this point, this made it easier to finish cleaning and removing the discoloration, and scale from the forging and welding process. The piece gets a final prep, clear coated, and wired for lights. Here is the complete piece installed