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champion forge blower


sing_j_

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I just purchased a Champion blower that was seized, supposedly it was in working order just a couple of years ago. I paid $20 dollars for it.(figured I was willing to gamble $20 dollars) First question was this a good purchase?(the stand is not with it, and its seized, shes got all the surface rust any human being would want, I also was not able to take pictures, maybe tomorrow I'll put some up.) Second question, is this blower able to be unseized? If so what is the process to get to the gears to unseize them?

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I have a champion blower , Its in fine shape . Yes they can be unseized . You have to dissasemble and clean away all the rust .

It is gear driven and very sturdy . Probably worth fixing . One in good shape goes for around 450 $   good luck    James

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The blower I'm currently using is a leaf blower on steroids. It pumps out more air then I'll ever need. I found that the Champion and knew its life wasn't quite over yet so I nabbed it. I just wanted to see what everybody's thoughts were and if anyone knew how to take one apart.

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toad, did you take the bushings and the gears out to soak them? I've been using some good ole penetrating oil today where the bushings are and she's slowly but surely starting to move free. It's still a little hard to get started though and once its moving though it moves.

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If you've got a bit of movement, that's a good sign.  I'm trying to salvage an old blower and she's stuck fast!

 

If you want a quick, easy way to get rid of the surface rust, and possibly clean the gears so they move easy, look into home electrolysis.  I just set up a tank using a car charger and an old igloo cooler; it cleaned the surface rust off overnight while I was sleeping and the thing came out looking brand new.  Very easy to set up and rather fun to play with.

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toad, did you take the bushings and the gears out to soak them? I've been using some good ole penetrating oil today where the bushings are and she's slowly but surely starting to move free. It's still a little hard to get started though and once its moving though it moves.

nope, Cleaned fit out twice using over cleaner, wait overnight then spray out with water. then soaked for 3 days in transmission fluid. It was moving but very grindy at the start,, much smoother now.

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nope, Cleaned fit out twice using over cleaner, wait overnight then spray out with water. then soaked for 3 days in transmission fluid. It was moving but very grindy at the start,, much smoother now.

taod, you just tossed it in a 5 gallon bucket threw in tranny fluid and let her sit?

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not really, I poured it in and it leaked like crazy out the fan shaft, Putting it in a bucket with oil might have worked better.

Thank you Toad! I'll start the cleaning it out and the 3-day process tomorrow. I'll report back and fill you all in.

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For the future sing_j_ I have had pretty good luck with diesel freeing up old blowers. Leave it in there and come back in a couple of days.

I've already tossed the ole girl in the tranny fluid if this doesn't work then I'll try the diesel trick. Would gasoline work as well? I've cleaned smaller parts covered in grease with gas so I'm just curious if diesel works better?
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Gasoline evaporates quickly.  Don't use it.

 

Electrolysis doesn't bother the metal at all.  It works on line-of-sight between the anodes and the blower, so you'll probably have some residual rust left behind in the depths of the gear case.  But, you'll have a pristine surface to prime and paint.  Far easier to deal with than sanding, scrubbing and the like.  Now that I've done it once, I'm really keen on it as a rust removal method.

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Ok thank you Vaughn. I may try it out on some smaller tools to get an idea before I just hop right on in on something bigger. I read somewhere to not do it with stainless steel cause do the chromium. What about galvanized pieces and other coatings on steel? The only reason why I bring that up is cause the fan blades look galvanized but the frame the blades are riveted on is painted.

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The coatings on the metal will be pulled off.  Doesn't matter if it's paint or galvanizing.  Basically, you're reversing the "anodizing" process.  Very easy to set up whether the parts are large or small.  Here's a shot of my blower sitting in the "tank" I made from an old cooler.  Works like a charm.

 

1378802_627941917258590_644230224_n.jpg

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ok then. Vaughn thank you very much this has been very helpful. And will certainly look into it. I tried the transmisson fluid and its a little bit looser but not by much though. so I think I'm gonna give diesel a try and if that doesnt work well I'll give electrolysis a try in the summer when its not colder then the south pole in montana  <_<

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Leon,

I just checked online for you and I don't think there's a company that sells 'replacement' parts for champion or buffalo forge blowers, and most likely all forge blowers period, you can always check eBay and similar sites, I've had luck on etsy just be willing to pay, check websites for blowers of the same kind that are in better or worse condition then put the two together and bam! you got yourself a blower.

You could also try posting under the feedback and support section saying you are looking for these parts for these blowers or just the blower it self, who knows you may get lucky.

Finally there's the finding a blower on a farm or ranch that the owner wants to sell or give to you for free.

What are the blowers you have? Like a champion 400 or type 40? And I don't know the types there are buffalo yet.

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Leon,

I just checked online for you and I don't think there's a company that sells 'replacement' parts for champion or buffalo forge blowers, and most likely all forge blowers period, you can always check eBay and similar sites, I've had luck on etsy just be willing to pay, check websites for blowers of the same kind that are in better or worse condition then put the two together and bam! you got yourself a blower.

You could also try posting under the feedback and support section saying you are looking for these parts for these blowers or just the blower it self, who knows you may get lucky.

Finally there's the finding a blower on a farm or ranch that the owner wants to sell or give to you for free.

What are the blowers you have? Like a champion 400 or type 40? And I don't know the types there are buffalo yet.

I have 3 blowers off buffallo forges i have 2 champion 400s and 2 other unknown makes right now. The buffallo blowers are the type that mount directly to the bottom of the forge. i can always make replacement parts but was hoping they were available somewhere .

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I have 3 blowers off buffallo forges i have 2 champion 400s and 2 other unknown makes right now. The buffallo blowers are the type that mount directly to the bottom of the forge. i can always make replacement parts but was hoping they were available somewhere .

 what are the parts you are missing? and I wish I could help you out man. my best guess see if theres anybody on here that has spare parts on the feedback/ support thread. If you do decide to make your own replacement parts please share on here what you did to make them I'd be very interested to know and I'm sure there's others on here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 what are the parts you are missing? and I wish I could help you out man. my best guess see if theres anybody on here that has spare parts on the feedback/ support thread. If you do decide to make your own replacement parts please share on here what you did to make them I'd be very interested to know and I'm sure there's others on here.

I have several broken paddle assemblies. The cross piece that has the sheet metal blades rivited to them and a couple of the belt rollers. there is nothing wrong with the blower housings themselves the internal parts are broken or rusted away . I was hoping that someone made the casting that holds the sheet metal paddles. The cross is thin cast iron and can break easily if someone tries to "break the blower free" by turning it with any kind of obstruction in the housing. I've seen one broken because of a mud wasp nest. In each case where I got the blower from the person who broke them they tried to turn one that would turn part way and then stop, They tried to force them past the "rough spot".

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