skiouros Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I just built one of Ron Reil's mini atmosphere burners. I don't have a nozzle flare on it, but am using a 1" pipe nipple on a 3/4" burner shaft in the meantime as per the design suggestion. I tried lighting the burner with a propane torch and it won't stay lit unless i keep the flame on it. I tried increasing and reducing the gas pressure from 5-17psi with no success. If I turned the supply line off center then it would stay on, but not in a way where it was really burn-blowing, and it led to a flame up. Someone suggested that there was too much air coming in and someone else suggessted that the burner shaft wasn't slid deep into the nozzle enough. I haven't tried either of these suggestions yet, and was looking for some incite. The burner shaft is only stuck in the nozzle a little less than an inch. it's an 8" shaft with a 3" nozzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 How well did you follow the directions for building this set up? Did you follow a proven pattern to the letter or did you change things? Any changes from the plans will change how it works. There have been a large number of folks built those burners and they worked. There have also been a lot that did not work..everyone of the latter had changed something when they built that was not in the plan. Go over your burner step by step and see wot needs to be for it to be like it should. If youi still have problems teel us wot they are and post a lot of pics so we can see wot youi see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 The location of a properly sized nozzle will affect the gas's burn. Having a correctly flared nozzle that you can slide up and down on the tube is the only way to determine where the right burn point is. The recommendation is to put the nozzle at a point where the flame will stay lit. Then l slide the nozzle up the tube until the flame goes out, mark that point. Next relight the flame(at a point where the nozzle allows it to stay lit) and then slide the nozzle down the tube until the flame goes out. Mark that point. then move the nozzle to a point about halfway between your two marks and you have the optimum burn position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 As Mr Hale said Its all in the details with atmospheric burners. Even something like small burr in your nozzle can cause problems. Look over all the instructions carefully and compare them to how you made yours. What kind of regulator are you using. Bbq grill regulators can't handle the volume or pressure required. Controlling the propane pressure is just as important as the burner. Pictures with details would help greatly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Pretty much what these guys have said. Re-visit instructions and confirm nothing was over-looked. Are you sure your gas supply orifice is aimed exactly down the center of the pipe? If it isn't it can make it difficult to hold and keep. a flame. Also could, as others have said, be getting too much air. Ron Reil's site has suggestions for choking the EZ Burner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 If you followed Ron's instructions it'll work. Building naturally aspirated burners is an exercise in precision work. Ron spent a lot of time perfecting his designs and they're good. You're going to have to go over what you have step by step and find out where you missed by a tad, correct it and test again. Don't sweat it though, this is common till you've made a few then they go pretty fast and trouble free. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiouros Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Hey, thanks for the advice. I made it so the nozzle would slide up and down the burner shaft and was able to find a point where it sustained burn. My plan was to get the forge operational and then make a flared nozzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 You've lost me, Nozzle . . . Burner SHAFT? Are these terms Ron's started using or something you've come up with? Burner folk commercial or us home builders call the last part of the burner tube where the flame exits the "nozzle" and I'm not familiar with anyone using the term "shaft" in relation to burners. I'm not playing semantic games with you but to have meaningful communications we have to speak a common language. Yeah, I know "jargon" is evil but only as an exclusionist slang. What jargon means here is a common set of terms, names and such so we don't waste a bunch of time and text explaining what we just said. Don't sweat it, we all had to and are still learning the craft's language. Something new is always coming up from somewhere. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Hey Frosty- I think the only different word is burner shaft for tube but this should help interpret the words. I understood what he was talking about and I think we are all talking the same language. '> Skiouros, Sounds like you are on track to get a good forge going. Keep plugging along and holler if we can help! Its probably best to make your flared nozzle before you finish your forge so you can properly size the hole where the burner will fit into the forge body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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