Momatt Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Today's little project. I hesitate to show my crude efforts, but you guys inspire me to try. I cut up a dull bandsaw blade, ground the teeth off, surface ground them degreased and tried. used iron mountain flux which must have gold in it at $16 a can. I do think it works better than 20 mule team. I think I have a little blade that is pretty well stuck together. It's just 80 layers started with 10. All saw blade I had no 15n20. It's just lightly ground with a 60 grit. Last is after a few minutes in hot vinegar. You can see a few layers they may pop after a polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Nice forge work. If you've got some little files laying around try sandwiching them between the sawblade for a more defined pattern. Can't wait to see the finished knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 We all have to start somewhere. Way to get after it! Post some pics when you get the knife done :) Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 I am not a damacus nor knife guy but I think bandsaw blade is 15N20. its a couple % points nickel that makes it the "shiny" bits because the nickel does not etch. Its the 10 series steel that is the dark parts (mostly, other things are used for sure) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 I am not sure about all bandsaw blades for wood. The big blades used in lumber mills I have always considered to be L6,,which. unless you really explore the data sheets is about the same as 15n20. The last 15n20 I bought new was marked bandsaw blade steel. Each of which contain, like said above. a small amount of nickel. That is why I use it in billets and I use a higher carbon steel such as 1084 or 1095 for the rest of the billet. The HC etches dark, and that with nickel brighter. If you weld a billet with one steel, such as above or with a cable billet. All the steel will be the same color. I see two good reasons to do just that. One it is simply a great forging exercise to hone skills. Another is to make a blade much thicker than the metal you have in hand. The contrast you see will be the lines of contact at the weld. Making wot you have into something that will do wot you wish in a better manner is a big reason to smith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momatt Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Fitted a copper guard and cut up a whitetail rack into something useful. I sure like punching guards and fitting them hot better than drilling and filing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Very nice! But you will never get away with dropping a line like "I sure like punching guards and fitting them hot better than drilling and filing." without a lot more info! Give it up, Mommat... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ Smith Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Yeah. need to know about this " punching guards". I sense a HOW TO coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 All of the details on how to do that are in the knife making lessons on this site,,,,,,,,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Turned out nice. I get the hot puching and fitting the guard. I've kicked around trying it once or twice, just haven't tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momatt Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 I take a piece of bar and grind it to just undersize of the top of the tang dimensions. after punching the slug out I wrap the cold blade in leather and stick it in the vise. with the guard hot slide it down the tang and all it takes is a few taps with a piece of pipe or a deep socket to drive it home for a perfect fit. If you are making a round guard like the one I used on this knife you can grind it to shape on the blade. Only caution is watch the temper, keep a quench water tub handy. Copper is real easy to punch if you don't mind the color. I haven't tried nickel silver, did one bowie cross guard from a rr spike that worked pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Momatt Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 Baptized this one today. Edge still shaved after dressing and skinning, i rip up through breast bone, though its softer than I'd like usually in a bade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 NICE JOB ON THIS KNIFE MOMATT , NICE FIELD PIC TOO !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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