hey guys im looking to get my anvil professionally repaired on the edges and was wondering what the cost of something like that is. im sure as hell not gonna do it myself so I was wondering if somebody in the group could do it or if you know anybody that could. and also if it would be cost effective to do it? my anvil is pretty old around 100 years or so and is 150 lbs with the Trenton brand name and serial number still on it. the face plat is solid no cracks, bowed in, broken horn , broken heel , etc  (looking to repair the edges that were abused by previous owner)

Talk to Frosty for a hand. He is in your neck of the woods. I know there is a group of Blacksmith's in Alaska, check them out

 

Neil

Sorry, I don't remember your name and I've asked more than once. <sigh> I'm blaming the tree. STUPID tree!

 

Cleaning up the edges is doable but may not be necessary or even desirable. how about posting a picture or two. Please shoot them with the light coming in at a shallow angle, direct light makes it hard to see detail on reflective objects.

 

You can bring it out and we'll evaluate it's condition. If it needs repair I can do it, we'll need to buy the right rod, do the preheat, ping and relieve the beads and you can grind to your heart's content. Just so you understand and agree there is no guarantee.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

hey frosty names eric and ill try to get some pictures up tomorrow.

ok frosty here are the pictures

I'll try to remember your name Eric, my memory just sucks for names anymore. Your anvil doesn't look too bad, there's still a good sharp edge on the tail. Were it my anvil I'd radius the edges and use it as is. If I needed sharp square edges badly enough I'd make a square sharp bottom tool.

 

Welding the edge puts the heat treatment of the face at risk, it will in fact be altered in the HAZ (Heat Affect Zone). It can be minimized with proper preheat, ping and relieve and a long slow cool down. Still, it's going to affect the face's hardness in the HAZ.

 

It isn't cheap either, just the welding rod costs a bunch. I'll have to check for specific price but it isn't cheap. for a ballpark guess, think several bucks a pound and I doubt you can buy less than 10lbs. if you can buy that little. You'll need a couple disk grinder disks too, the first one is probably going to get pretty worn prepping the edges to weld, then it'll probably take at least one to dress the edges. Probably more.

 

I don't think I have a chill block so the beads will be rougher than I'd like but I'll look around, there may be one somewhere. I'm not going to buy one and I seriously doubt you want to, we'd need a copper bar 1" thick x 3-4" wide and at least 6" long. that being the case, figure some serious grinding to get the edges dressed.

 

Figure welding those edges up is going to cost you at least $50, probably more just for materials and gas for the welder ad not counting driving out at least once. Personally I wouldn't weld on that anvil, the edges aren't damaged enough to warrant it. It is however YOUR anvil and if you want to give it a lash I'll do my best to do it right. NO guarantees though, you need to know and agree it may turn out worse than it is now.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

hmmm its a tough decision for me to be honest. I mean I do need some sharp edge on the face near the horn of the anvil but to be honest you kinda made me worry when you said it could turn up worse then it is. but how bad would the hardness be affected? and what would the worst case scenario be?

Hi Eric, Rob here. An anvil popped up on craigslist in Anchorage. 150 lb Vanadium Steel according to AIA cast steel that was hardened and tempered. Appears to be in excellent shape with sharp edges. His asking price is a little steep at $6 per lb but all he can do is say no to an offer.

Just thought I'd let you know in case your interested.

I repair anvils. I use the Rob Gunter welding procedure for major repairs. A average repair would run around $100 depending on how much welding rod is used. That is just for welding. If you want it finished ground it would be another $100. I have done several to date. I hope this info helps.

hmmm its a tough decision for me to be honest. I mean I do need some sharp edge on the face near the horn of the anvil but to be honest you kinda made me worry when you said it could turn up worse then it is. but how bad would the hardness be affected? and what would the worst case scenario be?

 

It should be a tough decision, there is a risk involved. What I'm warning about is a potential hazard. I've welded high carbon steel but never an anvil so it's new territory for me. If you decide to weld up those edges I'll do my best but can NOT guarantee it won't affect the face. If I could predict how it'd be affected I could make it turn out how we wanted. That's the unknown aspect.

 

As Harold points out, if you want me to finish grind it, it'll cost more. I'll prep the weld but the finish is just a bunch of work I have decades of experience doing and it'll be a good place for you to develop an important skill.

 

Don't you have a new Nimba, or am I thinking of another member?

 

There are alternatives to nice sharp edges that don't involve a chance of damaging a valuable old tool. If you'd like to come out I'll be happy to show you some tricks and we can take a close look at your anvil. I'll make you a sharp edged square cornered bottom tool gratis to avoid messing with the anvil itself.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

thanks Harold for the info but I think im gonna have to pass its too much of a risk and the story that goes along with the anvil isn't worth ruining. and yes frosty I do have a nimba its just that I don't have the space and a stand for it. on the other hand though I would love to come out with Tristan to see you frosty and make a bottom tool for the anvil and get schooled up on some skills thank you so much for the invitation.

Sounds good Eric, bring the Nimba and we'll see about making you a stand for it. If you don't mind a steel stand that is. If you want a wood block we'll have to see if I can get my chain saw running, I haven't fired it up in a few years.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

I don't mind a steel stand actually I prefer a steel stand but anyway seya then frosty

Sounds good, I'm retired so a little coordination and I'm a go. Get together with Tristan if you want to come out with him or however you'd like to work it.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Hello Jerry I used a build up rod I got from Monte's father on my Haybudden years ago. It is softer than the anvil. Seems to work fine. I preheated the anvil to about 400f I think. I just air cooled it if I were doing it now I might slow down the cool, or I might do the same.

Thanks Mark, Your Hay Budden looks good so I think it's a successful rod. I like build up rod myself but I keep hearing from guys who use hard facing rod made for high impact. If Eric decides to go ahead on his anvil I'll have to make some calls and ask guys online. Build up and hard facing rods change almost continuously so there probably are perfect rods for anvils. I'm thinking rock crusher rod but just don't know anymore.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Manleyiron, your very welcome! Good luck on what ever you try. Over the years I have seen a lot of anvil repairs. All have seemed to work at some level. The only one I have seen that did not not was one that was MIG welded. When it was finished they hit with a hammer and a the welded area, about 3" square popped right off.

yeah if theres gonna be some risk I might just have frosty make me a bottom tool for the anvil that has square edges or use my nimba.