Jean- Sebastian Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and thought I would start off with a topic that I still haven't nailed. I recently purchased an anvil (got a good deal on a 160lb PW) and am trying to select a stump for its base. After sandy, we had a lot of downed trees and I am thinking if using a section of one. However, I am completely puzzled as to how to make it level on the floor. I have an 18" chainsaw, but can't seem to make level cuts. Drawknife? Sander? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulKrzysz Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Using a very sharp hand plane and level.Check with level, and fix with the plane until flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean- Sebastian Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hey, thanks! Unfortunately I don't have a good plane right now. I'll have to remember that next time I'm at the flea market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Where are you located? I have lots of good logs. You can use a wide strip of something flexible with a straight edge and wrap it around the log just make sure you can go more than one wrap so you can see that it is straight all the way around then mark it with chalk and cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Greetings Jean, If it helps.. You can put your stump on a table aprox 2 ft high horizontally ... Use a long paper wrap around to mark the stump.. Now have at it with your chain saw.... It helps if you have a helper to rotate the stump.. And that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Welcome aboard, glad to have you. Please put your general location in your header, it'll save us having to ask you all the time. I take it you don't have much larger scale chainsaw experience eh? When was the last time you had your chain sharpened? Sharp isn't as important as even, if the teeth aren't evenly sharpened it'ss pull toward the duller side and you won't be able to get a straight cut. the #1 problem folk having getting straight cuts once things are sharpened and tuned properly is they work the saw while it's cutting. do NOT rock it up and down, pull and push it, it has a motor for all that. Simply set the brush teeth against the log with the blade lined up for the cut, rev it and ease it into the wood by lifting the handle gently. Listen to the saw, you'll hear the engine work as the teeth bite, do NOT hog it, if the engine starts bogging down, let off the pressure. Do NOT lift the bar so it'll rev up, just ease off the pressure. Now maintain the same pressure till you've either made the whole cut or the brake starts touching the log. the brake lever is in front of the top handle so it'll hit the wood before your hand does to stop the chain if it kicks back. If you've run out of bar before cutting the log, reposition it on the far side so the brush rake is just looking down the first cut and the bar is lined up IN the cut. now pivot the bar up and down on the brush rake to make sure it moves freely, it may rub a little, that's okay but if it jams reposition it till it move well. Start the saw and finish the cut. If you marked the log properly and followed your mark you should have a nice clean cut. Now for the second one, the toughy. Determine how high you want your anvil mounted. Between knuckle and wrist height is the current accepted standard. measure from the top of the anvil to the bottom of the foot Just stand it on the floor and see how high the face is, subtract that number from the total height you want. THAT is how tall you want your anvil block. If you having a framing square this'll be easier. Picking a number for conversations sake we need a 24" block. lay the square across the end of the block and mark the log at the 24" mark. do this all the way around so you have a 24" mark every few inches. Seems like excessive use of a lumber crayon but it's not, it'll quickly show you if the first cut is crooked if you can't see it. Finish marking this cut by connecting the dots, set up on it like you did the first cut and repeat. this isn't the easiest thing to do with a 18" b bar but it's not out of the question. Pick a not so desirable log and practice. so you end up with 3-4 not so perfect blocks, so what they come in handy around the shop more than you might think. Another option that's open is find one of the crews clearing down timber, bring a box of donuts and fresh coffee, tell them what you need and ask if they'll cut one for you. Brother you'll be surprised how much good will a smiling face and box of donuts will buy. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean- Sebastian Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hey guys, thanks for all the responses! Tim, I recently got hold of a bunch of light-gauge steel straps, I'll have to give them a try! I'm near New Paltz. If I can't make the logs I have work, I might just take you up on yours! Jean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Mullins Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Not to side track the thread, as I have not done this myself, by as I was searching for what type of base I would use I found some information about stumps/logs. I don't recall the link or site, but found some info on using a frame and router the level the top and also the bottom. What I found interesting and have only seen in that particular instruction, was to rout out three wide feet on the bottom of the stump rather than keeping the full face. The explanation was that on floors that were not perectly level this would help with the stability of the stump. Seemed to make perfect since to me as the 3 leg design for bases or stands is well proven. I ended up building my stand from wood, but if I find the right stump or log for the right price, I would like to change it out and will give the feet a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 If you slightly dish the bottom of the stump it will be easier to get it to sit. I also make the bottom cut first, set the stump on that cut to make sure it isn't rocking, and then cut the top. Yeah, you are making two cuts, but they don't have to be as exact as if you were only making one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clodbuster Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I've made several of these. Usually stumps are irregularly shaped, so flexible rulers don't work well to lay out a line. Use a tape or yardstick and measure straight up from the floor and mark it. The best way to get it flat and true is with a router. Google "router sled" and you will find a wealth of info. Running a router back and forth will level it easier and more accurately than any other method. Here's three pictures of how I did my swage block stand 1) The first shows the stump rough cut with a chainsaw above the line. I then nailed two boards to opposite sides of the stump with their tops parallel and level to the ground. These serve as rails for the router sled. Note the spacers so that the router doesn't chew up its rails. 2) The second photo shows how you make a series of passes back and forth with the router sled and it levels the cut. The plywood to the left is the sled, the bit is sticking out of it. 3) The third photo shows how a belt sander cleans up the router tracks. When you get one end done you can remove the rails and endo it to do the other end. To keep my stumps from rocking I mark 3 "feet" into the base and freehand rout and sand between them about 1/8" deep. A three-legged stool will never rock. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Mullins Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Clodbuster - your post is exactly the process I was referring to. Thanks for the correct term "router sled", I'll be sure to bookmark this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren70 Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Somthing i have always used for marking straight lines around round section is emery cloth. I have 2" wide rolls of it in the shed and it works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postleg Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 I did my stump like clodbuster described. works great. after getting it flat I traced the bottom of my anvil on the stump and roughted the anvil shape about 1in deep to set the anvil into the stump. I lined the bottom of the cut out with several layers of roofing felt to help quiet the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean- Sebastian Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Hey guys, thanks for all the info! I'll have to try the router bit next time I'm able to work in the shop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale M. Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 You could make a "synthetic stump" by cutting, gluing, screwing or bolting together cut lengths of dimensional lumber...I know hot the same a traditional stump, but just as effective.... Just a thought.... http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=anvil+stand Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupiphile Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Though, this is not exactly what was asked, I thought I'd supply a alternative suggestion, I'd highly recommend a concrete anvil stand, especially for an anvil that small, If you pour afew hundred pounds of concrete under that it will behave like a much larger anvil. My main shop anvil is 320lbs and still benefited greatly from a concrete base, I would never go back to a stump for my main anvil. Take Care, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humphreymachine Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 I do some estate clear outs as part of my career as an antique dealer and have the good fortune from time to time to find ‘old surface’ i.e. ‘antique’ hardwood stumps in people’s barns or cellars. These were used for splitting kindling – logs - etc and are almost always the right height for medium weight anvils. I love the old look but invariable they rock as the bottom cuts are seldom true. I was thinking of purchasing and dishing the bottoms with one of the ‘chainsaw’ type wheels which are available for 4 inch angle grinders but I like the router idea even more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobL Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 I made these chunky levelling feet for a metal working bench but never got around to using them so I just bolted them onto the side of my stump. The stump still sits firmly on the floo,r the feet just help stabilize it and remove that last little tiny irritating bit of rock that I just can't seem to get rid of. This will keep me going for a while but I do spend a couple of days in a tree lopers yard milling timber so I will cut myself an new and improved stump when I get around to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobL Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 I just realize my smallest chainsaw mills is set up perfectly for this sort of thing, ie make a flat cut and then make another perfectly parallel to that first one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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