Edit: Solution achieved

 

Does this pin come out to remove the jaw? I lightly hammered it out a bit, but it finally took hold and I didn't want to force the issue. I can't figure out how it's seated, whether it's a keyway or something like that.

 

An ideas?

 

And while we're at it, does that horrible green paint say anything about its history by any chance?

If you really need to take it apart, cut one end of the pin off and remove it. Don't be afraid of it, it is a post vice!!

It is piened over on one end or riveted, whatever you wish to call it.

 

Neil

If you really need to take it apart, cut one end of the pin off and remove it. Don't be afraid of it, it is a post vice!!

It is piened over on one end or riveted, whatever you wish to call it.

 

Neil

I guess it's hard to tell from the pictures, but if you look at the second one, it is not peened over. It's flush with the surface, so unless it's seating on a hidden shoulder underneath, it seems like it should just slide out with some persuasion. I'll give it more force in the morning. Too many people to wake up if I try it now.

 

I only want to avoid cutting it because I'm still building up my shop and don't have a full complement of tools to get it back together quite yet.

It seems to me that what you're calling the flush side may be mushroomed a bit so it won't drive thru. Knock it back and file or grind a chamfer on it and try driving it again.

 

I don't see the point in taking it apart anyway. If the vise works stiffly at the hinge soak it with penetrating oil  and if that doesn't work heat it up with torch/forge and work it back and forth while hot. No real need to ever take it apart !

Usually there is a bolt there.  A previous owner of the vise may have lost the nut and then simply peened that end.  I agree with the others that you could first try oil, then if all else fails, cut the deformed bolt off and replace it with a new bolt when you reassemble it.

Most vise bolts are keyed they have a small key under the head to prevent it from turning and loosening it fits into a cut out at the top of the hole.  If the bolt gets loose it is more likely the jaws may wrack under heavy strain.  Also if you don't use a keyed bolt you will be constantly tightening the bolt if you use the vise a lot.  After you get the old bolt out you could cut it back and weld some new thread to the bolt to preserve the head with the key.  If the jobs worth doing its worth doing right.

I picked this one up a while back.

 

 

Here's what I did with it.  The jaw moved, but was very stiff.  I removed the nut and bolt and got the jaw out.  It appeared that a previous owner had trouble keeping the nut on.  It had mutiple center punch marks on it and the end of the bolt.  At one time the nut had been tightened so hard that it bent the two plates inward, pinching the pivoting jaw.  I used a wood splitting wedge and a BFH to spread the plates apart slightly to allow the jaw to move freely.  I reassembled it just snugging up the nut and used a little loctite to hold the nut in place.  It works great now and the nut doesn't come loose.   

I picked this one up a while back.

 

 

Here's what I did with it.  The jaw moved, but was very stiff.  I removed the nut and bolt and got the jaw out.  It appeared that a previous owner had trouble keeping the nut on.  It had mutiple center punch marks on it and the end of the bolt.  At one time the nut had been tightened so hard that it bent the two plates inward, pinching the pivoting jaw.  I used a wood splitting wedge and a BFH to spread the plates apart slightly to allow the jaw to move freely.  I reassembled it just snugging up the nut and used a little loctite to hold the nut in place.  It works great now and the nut doesn't come loose.   

Thanks for all the input, folks.

 

Doc, I'm taking it apart to do a full restoration. Removing all the rust, even in the hard to reach bits is part of that.

 

As for a solution I hope Timothy is right. I prefer not to cut anything that will need re-fixing/replacing later ( i know, to some extent that is what we do and should be capable of, but...).

 

The pin is not peened, lipped, nicked or gouged over the small flush end. There is about an eitgth of an inch side to side play. I'll be attacking again this afternoon. We'll see...

And the winner is...

 

Brute force.

 

Just had to twist, punch and wail on it to break the friction and grime.

 

There is no keyway. Just friction and weight held it in.

Its more of a notch than a key way.  I think it is actually called a toothed bolt.  Most of the vices I have taken apart had them but I like to play with the really old ones.

Its more of a notch than a key way.  I think it is actually called a toothed bolt.  Most of the vices I have taken apart had them but I like to play with the really old ones.

 

 

 

You win. After taking it to the wire wheel (3 hours of grinding off most-likely lead-based paint, yay!), said notches were revealed. Is that all there is to it or is it missing a spring clip or key or is it just held by friction? 

 

I believe you will be my go-to guy for info on this particular vise.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

oops, double post... 

I'm about to dive into this one pretty soon and tackle the same thing you are going through.

I'm about to dive into this one pretty soon and tackle the same thing you are going through.image.jpg

It wasn't really so bad other than that stubborn pin. I just spent 3 hours of quality time with it, a couple of wire wheels, and some oil. I had to forge a new wedge for the mount (mine uses a couple of shim type wedges to snug up the mount).

 

Can't tell from your picture but mine was painted and I'd assume it was lead based paint, so the respirator was not optional. There was so muc rust in the air that it still wold have been a must anyway. 

 

I like the way you mounted yours. I have a similar bench. I may steal that.

 

Have fun.