We were cutting wood for the fireplace and I had to do a double take when I found a good sized burl on a log. I haven't cut it up yet but it looks like some interesting grain patterns in there. So my question is whether or not anyone has experience using the stuff for a handle, either slab or block?

Before you stick it on a blade, make sure the moisture content is on or below 10%. I'd be happy to relieve you of the burden and even pay for shipping to Oregon.   :)

Nice find!

John

Look up how to stabilize it in your home workshop!

I do plan to try and stabilize it, but I believe it has be dry first, yes?

Most  burl (Oak especially) will crack as it shrinks due to drying. I`d put it in a plastic bag, seal it and put it in a cool spot, out of the sun and heat until you decide what you want to do and how you want to do it.
Check the bag every other day and turn the bag inside out then seal it again. Keep doing this till the bag isn`t noticeable wet inside. then move to a double layer of paper bags and store it in a closet.

  I`ve seen some really nice burl ruined by folks who were too impatient to dry the wood properly.

Sounds simple enough. I think I'll go with that route and then stabilize. Thanks

i have not made handles, But I have turned them quite a few  times. I follow the same plastic bag routine as "MB" and it works very well, but dont leave it in the sun or it will lose the moisture to fast. 

You sure do get some fine wood out of the wood pile for use in craft project that's for sure.

Give this some thought.

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

http://www.woodturners.org/tech_tips/misc-pages/boiling.pdf

I went ahead with the bag method and have it in a compressed two gallon ziplock in a dark corner of the shop. With it finally turning colder (below 75*) down south, it shouldn't get too hot.

Which leads to the next step. Anyone have a good home process to stabilize this bad boy? I keep seeing the minwax wood hardener, but anything else that has good results?

Is there a problem using the suggested stabilizing methods and chemicals in the knife making ref section?

No there's no problem with it, and I have read through the ref materials. I was just wondering if anyone had come up with other methods/ materials that weren't listed. The whole vacuum/pressure thing kind of throws me for a true, deep stabilization.

keeping it in a sealed ziploc really wont let it dry out will it?

 

 I'd wrap it in 5 or so layers of newspaper and then put that in a few paper bags.  That should seal it enough to slow the drying (compared to no wrapping) but still allow it to dry out.

 

Chem stabilizing Im not familiar with.  

Using a plastic bag works so long as you turn the bag inside out daily.  Turning the bag allows moisture to escape (early on it may condense on the inside of the bag which becomes the outside).  If you don't turn the bag often enough, the wood can spalt (start to mold).

Personally I coat any endgrain in carpenter glue, that has worked best for me.

 

ron

I use Acryloid B 72 diluted in acetone kept under vacuum for 2-3 days, cycling several times a day. Acryloid B 72 is used by museums for permanence. After several days under vacuum, the penetration is complete. Then I allow a week+ for drying time. That time can be decreased up by heating to 150 deg and soaking for an hour +.

The cost is reasonable, and all that is needed is an old pressure cooker and an auto vacuum pump + some plumbing.

The alternative is to spend $100+ for a gallon of "cactus juice" and do the same process.

 

John