pkrankow Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 I have a sheet of 30x48 #11 sheet metal for a forge table top. I have a welded mild steel firepot (I need to measure the actual outside dimensions, the inside was made to plan) http://www.blksmth.com/mild_steel_firepot.htm I have 4 different ideas on how to set the pot into the table 1 centered in the table, pot running widthwise. 2 centered in the table, pot running lengthwise. 3 centered in a 30x30 square on one end, pot running widthwise (where I am leaning) 4 centered in a 30x30 square on one end, pot running lengthwise. I have a set of bed rails from a king bed to make edges and diagonals for the legs. I can either use the bed rail or some perforated sign post (Compliments of Jammer) as legs. I intend to make it "break down" by bolting sub sections together. I have a good stick welder and mediocre welding skills for the rest. I am aware that both the sign post and bed rail are high carbon and may prove difficult to drill. Currently the forge will live on the end of the driveway. I am not sure if it is getting wheels or a method to use a handtruck. I hope to build a shop with a proper flue for this forge at some point in the future. Opinions please! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 i just started on mine , i did the pot running widthwise, and off set it to left side some so i could reach the blower, cut out the front so i could run long stock in... not done yet , ran out of wire.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 They commonly run across the width. I also like room on the right (I am right handed) so I offset the pot to one side to allow room for tools and fuel, a position which also coincidentally helps if you use a side draft chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Yep. A bit off center allows you to stockpile fuel and tools to one side, depending on your strong hand, and also allows for a side-draft hood if you should need that somewhere down the road. Certainly need to cut a groove fore and aft for long metal to pass through the fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backwoods Blacksmith Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 I centered mine right to left and 2/3 1/3 back to front. You need the extra room in the back to keep the breeze and coal from falling off the back edge when working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 What the other responders have said. plus lots of hearths were rectangular, but that is not engraved in stone. Square would work.. I might be concerned about the sheet metal sagging with use. Some angle iron struts tack welded across the bottom might be in order, and speaking for myself, that would be tricky welding...maybe clamping and back stepping to prevent warping? Angle iron around the periphery on top helps to keep coal on the hearth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 The bed frame is angle iron, some 20+ ft of it (1 1/2 inch IIRC). I was thinking about running bedframe angle under the table to support the firepot. If I wasn't clear, I am NOT cutting the sheet smaller than the 30x48 it currently is. The consensus is run the pot widthwise, closer to one end than the other. If I center in a 30x30 square at one end, the long end will have extra free space, with about 10 inches on the short end and 28 inches on the long end, about 8 inches on the sides. Now that I think about it, this seems close to the size of the forge WRABA uses at Century Village. I have another sheet of this material the same size so making the table wider is an option, but I don't think it is necessary. Another feature I plan on is some pipe welded so I can make long stock rests out of round rod that fold down when not needed. Any other features I should consider? I am undecided on using the slotted grate my brother provided, or making a rotating clinker breaker. Since the tue bolts in I can change my mind with little effort. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd&mlteach Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Phil, Here is my build of my forge in 2009 if that helps, I am glad I that I took pictures as I am forgeting exactly how I did this. I also can't remember if I have posted these before, but hey here you go. My original firepot was a cast iron base from a flagpole or something. I made a rotating clinker breaker and it worked okay. The only problem with it was that the opening to the firepot was too small and it restricted the air flow too much. I eventually welded a firepot together in 2011 and increased the overall size of everything. Way, way better and I love it! My firepot is centered on the table with no supports, nor is it bolted down. It just sits there and so far I have had no problems. The plate is 1/8" thick and shows no signs of sag or warp. I originally envisioned the blower bieng mounted on the table but with the firepot and hood, I found there was no room. I eventually made a table to hold the blower and counter balance the whole system when moving. Works great and I can easily move it to where ever I want. My work support is a roller stand that I drag around when I need it. I found it at school when I first was hired and removed it from service when a kid crushed his finger adjusting it. I will try to get pictures of the stand today if you want. The hood is made from 18 g sheet and has been an evolutionary process. I started out with what you see in the pictures and since then I have been adding to it until it is now closed on three sides. None of the additions are permanent and can be removed to allow for large pieces. The pieces I have added have really helped with lessening the occasional breath of sulfur I was getting before. The last two things I added to mine were tool racks and a lifting handle. The tool racks are great and work as needed. The lifting handle works as a tool rack when needed and a mount for hand powered grinders, oh and a handle too. I also keep a 1" x 6" steel plate and a small ball pein hammer on my forge table to aid in quick small forge welds. I hope something here helps, if you want any specific pictures let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Very nice Wd. I need to take pictures of what I have already and get them on here. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 I made some progress with my hour of free time today. Sometimes the "hard way" is easier than the "easy way" Yes the sheet is galvanized, and I ground back over 4 inches on all sides of the opening. Pickeling just wasn't working. I moved the opening 2 inches closer to the center of the sheet after drawing the cutout on. I also need to shorten my tue, and I plan to cut it off the ring and move the Tee closer to the firepot. The tube is thinwall post from a clothsline. Phil Odd, the pictures are in reverse order. If it is not obvious, I ground both sides of the sheet to remove the zinc. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd&mlteach Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Phil, Looks good, looks a lot like my second firepot. Here are updated pictures of firepot 2.0. It is a hybrid of sorts a combination of I believe parts from a masonry system and a welded pot. The original fierpot from the masonry setup was I think cut with an OA rig and there was not much left. However, the bottom parts were nice and usable, so I decided to use what I had. The steel I chose for the pot was 3/8", I think. A suggestion, that seems to be working for me is that I have my sheet metal painted and it seems to be holding better than I expected. I did not use anything fancy, just Rustoleum in the quart. The actual firepot is painted with high temp grill paint and it also seems to be holding or not burning. I should temp the pot sometime and see what that reads, just for fun. As you can see in the pictures all of the paint is still there even after firing. Just a suggestion, heck you may have been planning to paint all along. And one more thing I still have not bolted mine down it just sits there floating like. So far no problems and I move it all around my property. I still have firepot version 1.0 and the cutout from the OA torch for version 2.0. I may someday make it modular and have the ability to interchange the firpots. The advantage is thae version 1.0 was much more cheaper to run, but limited in size. Version two has a larger capacity but eats more coal. Also it might just be for fun and to see if I can do it :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 I was neither planning or not planning on painting. I never considered it one way or the other. Paint will have to wait for spring since the weather has turned around here. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Looks good man. Can't wait to see it in action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Phil I tend to side with you on having it towards one end.gives you a bit of support for longer pieces the wheels I put on mine are I think 8" they may be 10 came off of a junk tiller.my yard is soft but have not had problems moving it yet.I have no inside place to put or store mine.my frame work was a stand of some sort I picked up made from 1" sq. tubing.I put mine in the center causeI wanted some slope from all 4 sides to the center that is also the reason I used expanded metal. which I also have on hand.it is SS so the cement will not eat it up.it was a store window cover in its earlier life.If I had the cash I would have used a piece of tank steel then would not have to use cement.cheap cat litter did not work.to much shale or chat.If I had had the plate I would have prolly made a square pot like yours, but went with the auto torque convertor instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Wheels might be nice to have. This is going to get heavy in a hurry. I unrolled a rust holed air compressor tank to use as a table for by brake drum forge. I think it was a great solution even though I could not get it perfectly flat. The table does not need to be heavy weight to work. I think your torque converter is a novel and good solution. Everything is on the back burner till after Thanksgiving at least, maybe even New Years. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 if you use wheels,drop your handle down lower than your doubled fist hanging straight down.so when you pick it up you can walk normal an not hunched over.the TC is heavier than what I figgered so it should last for years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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