Pug}{maN Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 man that came out nice ! good job guys ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 I need to make a smaller set of top and bottom fullers. Mine were border-line, too big for this size hammer. Problem is I don't have ANY top swages! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 I got to use the hammer for the first time yesterday, and I love it. Even though it just 2.6Lbs I can still move more metal with it than I can my 3.5Lb cross peen hammer!!!! I hope to do more smithing than welding this week, so I will upload a video of it in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Great job, Dave and Chase! It's good to see you continuing with the tool making. That striking anvil will be one of your best investments you've ever made especially when sharing this information with others, and you'll learn more when you share it. Getting on both sides of that anvil (directing or striking) will teach both of you more, and working with others will also. I've made hammers with 12 year olds to 88 year olds and ages between, male and female, and it taught me a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaylan veater Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 thanks to all for the making of the video, pictures etc, I starting to get parts for a striking anvil back when Brian made his 2nd one before the Abana conference in SD. The video and pictures have made my process go alot easier. I am still working on mine ( my day job gets in the road most of the time ). I have legs cut and anvil cut to size 2.75'' by 5.25''by 14'' my base plate is going to be 1.5'' by 6''by 15'' I am getting the base ready at this time . Thanks for the encouragement to keep working at it. As I can see yours done looks great and the new hammer looks great also. I am sure Chase will always cherish that hammer and the day he came to help strike for it. Thanks again for sharing your journey. It was a pleasure to meet Brian and the 3 young smiths at Abana in SD. I got one of your hot cuts Dave it works wonderful.Keep up the good work!!! Gaylan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 Thanks Brian and Gaylan! I would have went with a larger size of anvil stock, but I was uncertain what size stock my forge would be able to heat up. I didn't want to make the stand, get Chase to the shop, and have everything ready, and be unable to heat the stock. As it was, I could have gone with a piece twice that big without any problem. However, this one is more than fine for now. Oh and Brian, send Lyle up with the 30 pound sledge........I'm upsetting a large sledge hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Seelye Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Great work and a real sweet couple of videos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 That was back in March during the first days of my class with Brian where I went for zero striking experience to all day striking for hardies and hammers. It took me a while to uhhh get in the "swing" of things. Here are the pictures of the hammer with a handle. Chase did the handle job as we ran out of time in my shop. It looks like he did a good job. I did not have sanding strips so I couldn't soften the edges of the hammer eye. (Hence the wood shavings starting to peel at the base of the eye.) BTW Chase, Ace hardware carries those sanding strips...I just found out today. If you have to rehandle some time, soften the edges of the eye up a bit. Thanks to Chase for the pictures! Oh and I forgot to mention that I made the handle from a 50-75 year old hand split Red Oak tobacco stick. The handle has a slight bow to it, but it feels good when forging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Riffe Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Dave, Very nice striking anvil, and an equally nice job with the hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Dave, Very nice striking anvil, and an equally nice job with the hammer! Hi Chris! Did you get the videos from here? Sorry I have your email written down on my welding table and I keep forgetting to bring it back to the house with me. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchjv Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 A striking anvil may be on my list of future projects. yours came out really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Think one Guy could do it? Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Think one Guy could do it? Any tips? Whatever "swage block" set up you use, make sure your block of steel cannot fall off. Put a lip of some sort around your "swage block" system. Make sure the block of steel cannot move so much that the hole you are drifting no longer lines up with the hole you are drifting over. We had a third hand to help with alignment! If you don't, you will want to prevent all movement. If you don't set it up where your block can't move and get misaligned, you will loose time, you will loose heat, and you will regret it. Get a big sledge! The one I was swinging was 11 with the handle and Chase's was 8 without the handle....probably around 9.5 with the handle. It would have been much better with two 12 pounders or bigger. If you can get a 16-20 that'd be great. You've got time.....that piece has enough thermal mass to retain it's heat for quite some time. You don't need a baby sledge that you can swing 90 MPH. You have a lot of resistant mass that you have to plow through with the drift and you need something with umph behind it (besides your arms,) to get the job done. Swing a whomping sized sledge slowly and steadily! Bolt your entire system down. Whatever you are drifting on bolt it down to a good stand, and then bolt or stake that stand down. My system was nothing more than two big RR ties nailed together. I did not bother bolting it down, however, with just yourself, you will love the increased efficiency in having a solid mount. Make two of each size drift you use! My drifts overheated and ended up upsetting slightly in the hole. Drive one drift half through, tap it sideways a couple of times, knock it out, flip the steel, drive the second drift from the other side. It will save you the time of having to cool your one drift down during a heat. Drill a 7/8-inch hole for a 1-inch square hardy. Drill 1 and 1/8-inch for a 1.25-inch hardy hole. It'll save you some work! You will probably also want a 4 or 5 pound short handled sledge (or hand hammer) to start the drift. Set it, then drive it! Last tip! Find someone else to help you! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 sweet , i think i can do it , i do have my wife and dad , but thay cant swing a sledge, ill have them hold it, now i just need to make the "swage block" set up ... thanks... o and you dont think a 7/8 drill hole then drift out the 7/8 hardy hole (the size i need for my anvil) would be better than a size smaller drill hole ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 o and you dont think a 7/8 drill hole then drift out the 7/8 hardy hole (the size i need for my anvil) would be better than a size smaller drill hole ? If I recall correctly, on Brian's last anvil he drilled a true size hole and then drifted....I.E. drill 1-inch, drift 1-inch. He ended up with a bit of the drilled portion still visible. (I THINK here! I'm not 100% sure......I could be getting my facts wrong.) Check with Lyle, David Gaddis, or Brian. Drill 3/4 for a 7/8 hole. And also, make your drift about a 1/32 oversized to allow for shrinkage. I did 1/16 and that was too much....Brian did true size and the hole shrunk a hair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 You are correct about drilling the hole and the drift thing. An important thing is overlooked here. When the piece is cold you mark the striking anvil with the square drift on both the front and the back, taking care to keep the squares aligned. When the striking anvil is glowing really hot the drift will align itself much better as all the infrared stuff is messing up the vision. It also means the reverse side is preset for the same treatment. Brian used a true size drift and when the new anvil was cool he had to re-drift the hole. Your drift need a small radius on the corners too. or at least small 45 degree angles, that keep the drift from cutting instead of pushing the metal. A bit about drilling a round hole the same dimension as the square hole. If you did drill the same size as the drift entered the hole the shoulders would be stretching first, then pushing the remainder of the metal away. By using a smaller dimension those square shoulders would still be stretching and pushing, but as the drift fully made contact the "flats" of the drift would be pushing and stretching also. There is one more point...and that is the drift should to some extent be polishing the drifted hole as it passes through. If it does not the anvil is still very hot, so the re-drifting may be n ecessary. You may see that as a scale form. WHen cold your new hardy hole should allow the new hardies to slide into and out with minimum amount of banging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaylan veater Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Hi All, I have completed my stand with the base. My legs a 2'' square solid bar with 3/4''feet and the base is 2 pieces of 3/4''welded together I cut and filed the 1&1/16'' hardy hole opening in the base and drilled the 5/8'' hole these are oversized so when the anvil is put on there will not be any hangup. Here is the pictures so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Looking good, Gaylan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 Hi All, I have completed my stand with the base. My legs a 2'' square solid bar with 3/4''feet and the base is 2 pieces of 3/4''welded together I cut and filed the 1&1/16'' hardy hole opening in the base and drilled the 5/8'' hole these are oversized so when the anvil is put on there will not be any hangup. Here is the pictures so far. NICE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOblacksmith0530 Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 If I remember correctly the standard shrinkage for steel is right around 6%. so for a 1 inch hole the drift would be around .060 over sized? I would make sure that the hole I drilled is at least the same undersized if not more, so .063 is the minimum undersized I would drill for a 1" hole so 15/16 I think 1/8 as said about would be better after some consideration. I have yet to make mine but may work on it around Christmas time if I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 What's the name of that neat jig in the opening, where you're walking out of the mist ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.