Fire Pot Idea needs help

[Hoary]

Ok for those who've helped me so far I want to thank you all and putting up with my endless questions and stuff, but I always found that asking these endless array of Q's would save me the chance of losing an eye prematurely or whatever else had I moved with plans. Ok here goes the next one, atleast I have created pictures to help explain a little better what I'm hoping to do and what I'm hoping to use, feel free to compliment or shoot it down, It won't bother me :-)

Here's the pictures:

As you can see by the first one I want to use Cement to seal the extra holes in the tire rim and support the long bolts or metal rods that would support the metal grate. Aside from it looking quite linear, I just wanted to know if that is a good solid plan and if I would use cement how should I prepare it? Once hardened is there something I should do to avoid air pockets and having the heat of the fire blowing it up in my face? lol I like thinking of worst case senerios it keeps me alive yet keeps me from living :-s Just let me know. I know Ironpuppet mentioned he's using clay since it would be more breathable but I'd lose the support for the bolts... but these are my ideas, I just want to know if it would blow up in my face before I actually have it blow up in my face. :-p Thanks

[Joseff]

I wouldn't think the concrete itself would be a problem, if cast iron can stand up to the heat, wouldn't concrete? Just make sure not to mix river gravel in that concrete, because I know for a fact that river gravel will explode at those temperatures. Yes, the idea of concrete is intriguing, I hope some of the more knowledgable members chime in on this.
Joseff

[johnny99]

Yes, it will blow up in your face!! DON"T do it.
Use high temp castible refractory if you want to do that.

[LarryM]

Hoary,

Check out this idea for a firepot. It's welded firepot, that I made for myself. One thing that I changed was to use 3" square tube instead of pipe.

Fabricated Fire Pot by Bob Patrick

Also look at irnsrgn's post on clay and horse manure lining.

Be Safe!!
Larry

[Glenn]

Concrete spalls (explosively breaks into chips or fragments) when heated.

Why complicate things? Just pack any holes with clay, mud etc. You could cover the holes with thin tin (sheet metal) if it is available. Fill the rest of the area with ash. Ash is cheap, and will conform to the "proper" shape for the fire.

One of the reasons I suggest the 55 Forge (Blueprint BP0133) is that it is a large pan, can be reconfigured to many shapes and depths, and is inexpensive in both construction materials and time of construction. The grate (see attached image) is extremely simple, consisting of auto exhaust pipe. This lasted for 3 years under hard use, including many 8 hours days forging at near welding heat.

The ash forms a cone (see attached photo) corresponding to the shape of the fire. The cone shown is from the Supercharged 55 Forge, Blueprint BP0333 .

No matter what solid fuel you use, the air input is directly related to the amount of heat output. Small air holes in grates both limit the amount of air to the fire and are more likely to clog with clinker. There will be ash and clinker and they must be removed at some point, so plan on it.

My favorite forge (see attached photo) is about 4 inches diameter and about 4 inches deep. It will operate on two double hand fulls of coal, and reach welding temps with no problem. There were 2 air slots in the bottom, each 1/2 inch wide by 2-1/2 inches long.

[Rantalin]

If one was to make a welded firepot such as that, what would the minimum thickness of the steel be to have a firepot which would last a decent amount of time (a couple years or so) and? I'm building a new coal forge and I've got some 1/8" thick plate that I could use.

[frogvalley]

I recommend 1/4 or 3/8 minimum thickness, 1/2 is better. Heated mild steel will scale with just about every fire and thinner stock won't last long. 1/8 will deform under the heat as well.

All of my currently in service forges are homemade. Two propane and one large coal. The coal forge is 3/8 thick, with two inch pipe and a good electric blower and diverter. Been in service for years and years.

Another consideration is that coal ashes and water mixed are very corrosive. If your sprinkle and pack your fire as many do, this along with heat, will corrode away any thinner stock.

[Rantalin]

I think I might end up dropping by the auto recylcing center and picking up a cast iron brake drum. That way I wouldn't have to deal with welding and it'll last a lot longer.

[oakwoodforge]

Instead of concrete to line the bottom of my forge like this (see pic) I Just used mud from the yard mixed and topped with wood stove ashes, its been in constant service for several years now. If I want to change the shape or dimensions of the fire-pot. I just move and re-pack the ashes and move the firebricks, this allows for quite a bit of flexibility, and has the added benefit of being free Oh and don't worry about trying to bolt your air grate in, gravity has been working fine in mine for years, been using heavy cast iron floor drain covers, they are about $5.00 ea at my local home improvement store, I haven't burned one up in a couple of years now but YMMV...


Jens

[keykeeper]

Hoary: Take the time this weekend and go talk live with some of those folks down at Amelia, Va if you can. There will more than likely be LOADS of good info there from veteran smiths about how to build a forge.

I'm sure Peyton (primtechsmith) and the gang would be more than happy to have you there asking questions. You will find that the veterans will always give you good advice on things at hammer-ins like this. If I lived as close as you (3 hours), I would definitely be there this weekend.