TheoRockNazz Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Hello again, I've got a new one for yall. The low layer damascus is S5 and mild steel, with an edge/core material of 01. Oak handles with brass fittings and mosaic pin (I wanted something subtle alongside the complexity of the blade). It was forged at Marsha Trattner's shop in NYC, where I expect to continue forging such blades. My inspiration came from a Lars Jacobsen http://www.britishbl...inate-and-knife Eventually I want to try the same sort of pattern but larger and with a w2 core; I may also do some funny stuff with the damascus, twists or eye-n-pool. I struggled with keeping the core material in the center, so if anyone has any tips on keeping it from moving around I'd love the input. In fact, any input is appreciated. Thanks a bunch, Theo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nblackmon96 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 loverly knife. I can't wait to get my forge up and running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Tim215 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Lovely knife and san mai Damascus Some advice if you want it:Taper the tang - this will make the handle flow more and be less "blocky" The line on the spine follows the belly - I don't know if you wanted this but a straight spine or opposite curve would be more aesthetic. Your vine file work needs to be closer together to get the flowing affect of a vine that you are looking for San mai is easier to do if all the pieces (ie - 2 outer layers and one inner layer) are all exactly the same size and thickness - bring to welding heat and very lightly tap the weld in or use a press in one squeeze to do the weld - as soon as you hammer to hard the layers will deform when what you want is nice even layers right through the billet - you will see this when you etch and the layers of the two outer Damascus and inner core flow in straight lines down the length of the spine. This will give you that nice flowing edge line on both sides when you do the grind. Hope this helps and this is the type of crit I want all the masters to give me when I post my knives - it helps to see mistakes you might overlook and pushes you to improve, though I think that some are afraid they might offend - I have very thick skin. Edit: I only saw the link that inspired you after I posted - notice my last point and look closely at his knife again and you will see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoRockNazz Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks guys! Tim, I'll make sure to take your notes into consideration for the next one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Actually I've seen some great undulating lines as the core/outer boundaries with it worked into a pattern. I think that control of the boundary line is what makes it look special. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Keeping equal presures help. When hammering, count your blows and filp over and hammer the same amount on the other side to keep it even. Also before getting to final thinkness do a test etch to see where the core is lining up and adjust acordingly as you thin to the usable dimentions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Tim215 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 By the way - if that's your first san mai then my hat's off to you coz you got very consistent lines flowing up the pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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