JRigoni Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I have used heavy tables when I worked in shops in Europe and had to make myself one. I originally thought about using 1/2 inch for the table, but opted for a massive 1" top. I plan on fabricating this over the next two months using 4" square tubing with 1/4" walls. Any suggestions on my design? Here are some photos of the pieces, just unloaded it today. I wanted a table to weld on without warping or when using a torch and its massive enough anything bolted to it would make it a good anchor. I want to weld 1/4" angle to the undersides and countersink some holes in the top so that it can come apart when I move out of my shop. Anyone have a good design as far as making this a quasi platen table? Round or square holes? drilled and tapped holes? Suggestions? Top is 6'x4' and it will weigh 1,371 lbs when done. I was thinking of making this at the height of my anvil roughly 2 1/2 ft off the ground to ease fabrication projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 If you have access to a magnetic base drill, you can drill holes as you need them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Looks like a beefy table!.........One thing I've learned is don't get carried away welding the plate to the base, just weld around the outside of the frame about 1 1/2'' every foot or so. That way you won't warp it and if you ever want to flip it the small welds are easy to cut, Too much welding to hold the plate in place can make the edges droop, I've seen it happen even on 1'' plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Right, I want this thing to be absolutely flat so I'll be drilling countersunk holes thru the plate to screw into angle on the inside of the frame. That way I can dissasemble it and there is no risk of warping from welds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dillon Sculpture Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I have 1-1/4" pockets at every corner, all my vises, benders, shears, etc. have a 1-1/4" square post on the bottom for a quick change out. Also hang all my clamps underneath for easy access. Mine is 1"x5'x10' just have a few tack welds to hold it in place in case I need to remove the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Don't put your angle iron frame so close to the edge that it inhibits your ability to clamp things down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I saw a table like this one and still another one too, both having the qualities you may like. Down in Baton Rouge Daniel has a 2 1/2 thick 6x10 table just sitting on metal posts...no welding at all and it does not move. Another has angle irons to make a trough to hold layout stuff etc that is welded slightly from beneath the table. Installed in this manner a square or beam clamp can still have access to the edge. The angle iron trough does not have to be out of very heavy material either. However it could be used to stiffen the table to reduce droop if the supports are too wide in spacing. Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Looks like you have a good start on your table. I too wanted a platen table but could not find anything locally or affordable so I built my own. This probably wont work for you since you already have the steel for the top. The top of my table is made up of 6" C-Channel spaced 1.5" apart. This allows C-Clamps to be used anywhere on the table. If one piece gets too worn or warped it can easily be replaced. It is not as flat as a cast iron platen but I have shimmed each piece to the accuracy of the C-Channel and it is fine for the work I do. I also have two sockets on each end where I can mount tools such a vise or grinder. This is not my design I saw it on the Practical Machinist web site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Since you already have a plate for the top and are considering drilling holes in it to use as a platen I would look at the Stronghand BuildPro Welding Tables. You obviously would not need the table but could use the same size holes and use their clamps and accessories. I have found their products to be very good quality and reasonably priced. They are much more affordable then the ones for Weldsale or Acorn platens.http://www.stronghandtools.com/pdf_ctlg/2012_BuildPro_catalog_1up_hq.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Now that is some kind of erector set...for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 a small update: I just finished cutting the parts to size and after a month or two of saving, bought myself a 15,000 watt generator to run my Lincoln buzz box stick welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norseman C.B. Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Looks like you have a good start on your table. I too wanted a platen table but could not find anything locally or affordable so I built my own. This probably wont work for you since you already have the steel for the top. The top of my table is made up of 6" C-Channel spaced 1.5" apart. This allows C-Clamps to be used anywhere on the table. If one piece gets too worn or warped it can easily be replaced. It is not as flat as a cast iron platen but I have shimmed each piece to the accuracy of the C-Channel and it is fine for the work I do. I also have two sockets on each end where I can mount tools such a vise or grinder. This is not my design I saw it on the Practical Machinist web site. You could space them closer and use T nuts and clamp bars on that design too !, Cool !! the cost of materials is probably a lot less than 1" plate I would bet. Thanks for sharing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I spaced the gaps in the top for a specific clamp that I wanted to use on the table. Some for the larger C-Clamps have a pretty wide pad. I had thought about the T-nuts and am planning on machining a set to use with a large hold down set but I have not had a project yet where I needed them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 OK, I've finished the framework and am now ready to weld the tabs that will hold the 1/2" bolts. I plan on lifting the plate to flip over using 2 eye bolts. Not sure if I should just buy larger 3/4 or 1" bolts to be safe, the plate is 1,000lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 The frame looks square and strong, I like it. My only suggestion would be to buy some large machinery leveling pads for the legs. The ones on my table are rated for 16,000lb each and have a rubber pad on the bottom. Nothing annoys me more than a table that wobbles because of an uneven floor. With the rubber pad the table does not slide when bending something that is clamped to the table. It also makes it very easy to get the table perfectly level. I found the best prices at for mine at Reid Supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 I'll be going that route with the leveling feet. I ordered 1/2" swivel leveling mounts rated at 3700lbs each. I'm going to pick up some half inch plate today at the steel yard and have it cut to 4 1/2" which would give me 1/4" of room sticking out from the legs for welding. I can then dill and tap the plate. The table would be able to hold around 7 tons, which is more than enough for any future projects :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Sounds like you have the leveler issue well in hand, just thought I'd show my poor man's solution to the problem...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Looks like you have an excellent project on the way. I could not help but add this bit of information about your shop. Since you are using a band saw to cut your large stuff be aware that in due time the band saw will get out of tune and start cutting errant shapes. I have a large band saw I put away for several years until I came across a website the other day concerning such a tune-up. My point is this, google the system about tune-ups for bandsaws so that you will be ahead of the game in the process. A bandsaw is a lot more economical than a cold saw to operate, but not nearly as fast. If the bandsaw is in proper alignment it can cut as accurate as a coldcut saw. and enjoy that nice looking work surface. Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Thanks, I think I will tune up my cut-off saw after this project is done. Small update: I went with Mcmaster-Carr and bought both leveling feet and eye bolts. The feet combined can hold 7.5 tons and the eyes can lift 2700lbs each. I tried to drill out the holes by hand. The pilot holes went fine but the larger 27/64 drill kept grabbing, breaking all three of my drills. I rented a mag drill and 15 minutes later, 6 clean holes, I need to save up and buy one of these things, it was beat up, but still worked really well. I flipped the plate easily with the eyebolts, was worried at first but the crane pulled through no problem :) Drilled and tapped both the plate and the feet for 1/2" Tomorrow I'll clean up all the welds on the frame and weld the feet, pretty excited as it's almost done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Mr.Gaddis you really need to come back to Baton Rouge and see my 2-1/4" thick 8'x8' table it sits all, 5600lbs+ on a table I had built for a 4' x 8' 1 " plate . no legs on the outside 2' sides VERY STILL and it is flat and level it will not move with a long cheater on a bar I wish to bend cold in the 1-1/2" round bar bending " forks. pins " welded to the side of the table , 3/4" apart. The height of your worktable is a matter of personal choice , the height of the anvil face is usually too low , but that could be handy. I chose 36 " from the concrete floor, a yard. that established the height of all the " horsies"I built to hold bar stock and plate. This is the ht. of the cutting table as well, sliding material without a lift suits me. I have used a rosebud heating torch for a long time, continously on the same spot. with no fear of warping this armor plate , and I have seen a 1" plate that did warp from a very short amount of such abuse. I tack weld jigs and such regularly all the time and am very care full not to dig into the table with the grinding wheel. when removing them . There are many 9-64th " holes i have drilled about 1/2" deep for a 1/8th"dia.pin very use full for tying a string to and drawing circles and arcs. Other holes establish a straight line and intersecting lines to speed layout. in addition to the pins for bending I spoke of that are welded to the sides of the table , I have a piece of 1" I.D.square tubing 1/4" wall thickness . this I weld to the table side when I want a portable hardy hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Ok, welded the 1/2" plates on the bottom and cleaned up the ugly welds on the frame (I suck at vertical stick welding). I've been using 6011 1/8" rods for this project and don't really like them too much. The underside of the top and the frame has primer, waiting on the last coat before assembling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Ok, all done. Needs a little paint, plan on grinding down the bolts sticking out from the plate today. The table sits a little high on account of the added 1/2" plate and leveling feet, but I plan on making a small platform if I need to be higher on some projects. I'm pretty happy how it came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 John that looks fantastic!!!!! well done man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Beautiful. I always think its strange what constitutes "heavy" in a persons mind and its all relative. My perspective is a bit skued. My "light" table is 3500 pounds, the "heavy" being over 8000 and I know of shops that my "heavy" table would be smaller than there lightest light table. I was At shop once that had a cast iron table that was 30' x 5' and 12" thick... Forman said it weighed 70,000 pounds, it had its own foundation ;-). Since then I always smile to myself when someone claims to have a "heavy" fab table... Sorry for the silliness, fantastic looking work station that is sure to improve your life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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