quint Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Well finally got a chance to use the forge and my new anvil for the first time. One thing I realized right away is that I need to shorten my anvil stand by about 3", I need real tongs (using channel lock pliers at the moment so lost a few arm hairs), and I need another hammer besides the 4lb lowes special for doing thinner stuff. Other then that it was alot of fun actually getting things to kind of shape how I wanted them. Both pieces started out as 3/16" 1084 that were stock removal attempts that didnt turn out right so I stopped working on them and there was plenty of metal left to play with. Started narrowing down the profile on them. The big one I dont like the handle and may end up changing a few things on it. Thanks for looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 good start, you need a little better hammer control from the scallops in the first photo, but a very good beginning, keep at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robakyo Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Those hammer marks look very sharp! I wonder if you dressed your hammer. The face of my big box store Blacksmithing hammer had a weirdly textured face and very sharp edges. It also left remarkably similar marks in my early efforts. Then I read here about dressing the face of new hammers. Making the face a shallow dome reduces these blemishes considerably. Of course, it wasn't until long after that that I read that you should hold the hammer with a light grip. Death grip bad! It was also coated with some funky plastic material that smelled awful when I was pounding hot metal with it. Sort of strange to coat such a hammer intended for HOT work with such a substance. I guess that is to keep it looking pretty in the store. I scraped off what hadn't melted off. Your design sense is very good. I really like the profile of both blades. I also like that you forged a respectable distal taper Into the bigger blade! You are off to a great start IMHO, and welcome to IFI, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 Thanks guys, Robert I played a little bit with the hammer, took off that clear coat or whatever it is but wasnt sure how much or what to take off of the hammer. Ill take a look at some other smiths hammers online and see about maybe working on it some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Well the little one I messed up on the grinding but the larger one is coming along nicely I think. Despite the hammer marks and what not. I think a little refining of the handle portion before I drill some holes and HT it. What do you guys think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger9523 Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 I know you don't like the handle shape, but i think that the hammer marks on the blade area give it character. If i had commissioned you to make me that knife i would ask you to leave them there. A knife that has been forged and then had all of the forging marks cleaned off during stock removal/final shaping may as well just have been a stock removal knife, but anybody that sees that blade will know straight away that you pounded it out over an anvil :ph34r: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 i like the grind on that knife it doesnt look like you did it with a file???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 Yeah the grind so far is with the slack portion of my 2x42 craftsman, giving it kind of a convex shape. With dressing of the hammer, basically it is if I am not mistaken rounding off the edges so you have a nice transition and not a corner per say. Gives a little less of a sharp hammer footprint when not hitting like you should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Well got the first knife profiled how I want it and am working on getting the wood for the handle. I like the new shape of the handle a little better. Shortened it up some. Got to have a second forging afternoon and after dressing my hammer and getting the forge dialed in I am having much more success I think. I really paid attention to the hammer position. I have done leather work for several years and using a mallet is second nature with that but the weight of the hammer is far less then it is in forging so although I have the mechanics down I need to adjust more to the extra weight of the blacksmith hammers. I did a second knife today in 1084, started with a stubby squarish rectangle piece and worked it much better then last time I think. Managed to avoid alot of the hammer marks from my previous attempt. I am going to have to profile the blade on the belt but I am relatively happy with the results for the most part. Didnt get the exact shape I wanted in the end but I do have enough extra so that I can get the shape with the grinder. Thanks for the help and suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Much better this time. you are learning well young grasshopper. Remember the tang area does not matter as much as the blade area, but get all the scale an other things removed, BEFORE you change grits. If you take your time and do not rush, this one may be able to be sold ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Thanks a bunch Steve. Appreciate the vote of confidence. I am actually thinking if this one turns out to keep it in the kitchen (i know 1084 isnt the best for that) and use it for a while. I want to be able to put one of my knives thru the paces for a little bit. See how it works. These two will be the first ones Ive actually finished. Ive found that I have a better time doing the forging method vise the stock removal, not easier by any means but I do a little better when I can throw it back in the forge and work out my mistakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 not the best? who said, one of my best blades in my kitchen is an old "Ontario knife Co" blade, high carbon, that my Wife already had when we got married. Just hand wash and dry as its used. SS is easy to be lazy with, and machines washes ok, but carbon steel is what I use for my commercial kitchen clients also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Ok sounds good, thanks again, I was under the impression that carbon steel blades werent that great for that use but like you say its just avoiding being lazy. Figure all of them were carbon steel a few hundred years ago. I only have one japanese made knife that is nice in the kitchen. I hand wash that one and take care of it. Ill be sure to do the same with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Well here is progress on the second one. Its been thru HT and temper. Have some gabon ebony scales for it. Gotta glue it up and shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 looking great scale removed and a better finish too, now get her mounted and more pics posted B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Well finished up the first one. Alot of things I have improved upon but wanted to get it finished. Actually my first completed knife that I have made. The second one is looking to turn out much better but I need a knife in the shop and this guy has a nice shape that I like. Will see how it holds up. Osage orange handle with teak oil and wax. Several of the marks are from a slip on the grinder shaping the handle. Still got a long ways to go in the finishing department (well overall). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Looks good Quint keep em coming! Have you tried to re-size your pics? I make mine about 1000X750 and they fit the page a little better. Makes it easier for us to see the whole pic at once instead of scrolling to see details. I look forward to seeing your next ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 Thanks Loneforge, yeah I usually resize the pics but my editor was not agreeing with me this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Well finished up the second guy. Had a little blowout on one of the scales when I was drilling. If I was selling it I would of had to change these guys out but for home its just fine. Even got a little bit of a differential HT line but its hard to see toward the back of the blade. Comments/suggestions always welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 You did that with a 2x42 craftsman?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Tim215 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Those came oyt realy nice - like the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 Thanks guys, Rhett I try my best to forge the bevel and tapers in as much as possible but right now with my experience that is rather difficult but I am to get most of it in. Then I take it to the 2x42 to smooth/flatten it out if need be, get the scale stuff off. I will do a rough out on the bevel because to be honest the 2x42 I have the hardest time in the world getting a good grind. Once that is roughed out I switch to files then hand sand to about 250 grit before heat treat. Once heat treated I finished this up 600 grit and hit it on the buffing wheel a little bit. The handle I rough out on the 2x42 but gotta be super careful because that thing will remove a scale pronto, then switch to the foam sanding blocks and other hand sanding items. Thats about it. I do have a no weld grinder in the works, waiting on some belts and need to wire up the motor. Cant wait to try out a more knife specific grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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