knots Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Knots, Thats not a fairbanks thats a Bradley compact. They do kinda look the same. Thanks. I did leave myself a bit of plausible deniability (wiggle room). What I believe is not necessarily so. :rolleyes: Since you likely know about these things, is the motor mount of the Bradley similar to the featured original Fairbanks motor mount. Which I assume from previous discussion to be a direct drive. The clutch is the wild card. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 The mount on the Bradley is not factory. Most factory mounts from Bradley mounted on a seperate stand bolted to the floor. I am not familiar with the rear pulley setup on the Fairbanks. Flat belt drives that have one pulley much smaller than the other work best with the center to center distance of the pulleys as log as practical. That will let the belt have more contact area on the small pulley. Vertical flat belt dives are less efficent than horizontial. Horizontial drives with some distance between pulleys will get quite a bit of belt tension just from the weight of the belt. That means if you are useing a horizontial slack belt system you need to keep the center to center distance a little shorter so the belt will slip till you tip the idler pulley in to tighten the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDF49 Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 That's a great score. Good to hear it's still functional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Masuk Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 Bryce If you look at the eccentric on the drive wheel you'll see that someone has added a plate and bolted it in a fixed position.It's not anything that can't be fixed but thought I'd point it out. Also looks as if the set screws that hold the sleeve bearings from rotating have been removed,you might want to check that also. yeah I am not exactly sure what to do about the set screws there isnt anyway to check and see if it has the orginal bearings anyways. The Keys are stuck in the dies I managed to cut the plate that was welded on the top die but both the bottom and top keys are stuck. probley will take a striker to release them as me heating the sow block up and the tup didnt get the key free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Masuk Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 Keys are really stuck in there it took heating the whole sow block up to 500 degrees to release the bottom key, The top is still stuck in both keys were made from mild steel so they mushroomed around the hole and this is before i even attempted to heat it up. I may be stuck with the top die as my only choice I decided to keep the jackshaft and use the larger pulley because of the increased control allowed with greater friction. My motor will need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Masuk Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 A 10 inch pulley to make it all work I tossed the orginal motor and mount, i really want to release the key in the upper die maybe after some use it will loosen itself which is possible. I will have to resurface the upper die while its in the tup so i removed it, the guides look good same with all the pins and bearings. I dont think it will be too much more work to get running.but i always find a way to fix more things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 If you are going to mill the die in the tup perhaps you could deal with the mushrooming issue at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Masuk Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I am going to grind it by hand, As far as the key goes i cut the end off and ground it flush. It still wont move though it would take a press probley to pop it out. Time will tell i guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 A 10 inch pulley to make it all work I tossed the orginal motor and mount, i really want to release the key in the upper die maybe after some use it will loosen itself which is possible. I will have to resurface the upper die while its in the tup so i removed it, the guides look good same with all the pins and bearings. I dont think it will be too much more work to get running.but i always find a way to fix more things If the tup is still off the machine, why not try to ice it down in a cooler chest with ice or dry ice. Could be that every thing would shrink down enough to make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Bryce if you can not get the die out of the sow block any other way you could bring it by my shop and I could gouge it for you. then you would not have worry about the die key galling the sow block. brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r smith Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Just make sure to double/triple check which way the taper goes to be sure to not drive it in deeper and split the ram. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 When I bought my 85# hammer the top die was stuck badly. The key was inboard of the edges of the die, and both ends were so close in size it was impossible to tell which was the skinny end and which the large. Beating with large sledges didn't budge it. I soaked the whole thing in a bucket of kero for a week, made a hardened driver that was the same size as what I thought was the skinny end, welded that to an air chipping hammer shank, and used the air gun to drive the wedge out. Repeated small blows did more to vibrate the wedge loose than a few big blows did. The real surprise came when the wedge popped out. It wasn't one key, it was two. Some gorilla had driven in two opposing wedges and that was why I couldn't tell fat from skinny end of the key. Both ends were the fat end! Barely got it out, and glad it didn't break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 If you are going to try a penetrating fluid, automatic transmission fluid mixed 50-50 with acetone is supposed to be the best..... Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryce Masuk Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 Bryce if you can not get the die out of the sow block any other way you could bring it by my shop and I could gouge it for you. then you would not have worry about the die key galling the sow block. Thanks for the offer brad you will have to come check out my shop sometime #14 20110 stewart cres maple ridge Only the upper die is stuck I tryed pretty much everything but icing it Its not a huge deal to remove the upper die i dont have any dies for it and it will be awhile before i do. The tup is pretty easy to take off. I really just want it to work, no more playing with it just let it work. When first got the hammer i applied a whole liter or quart of powersteering fluid and acetone mixed 50/50. It worked great on everything, when the bottom key came out it was boiling that stuff around the keyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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