JMcCormick Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Hello from Asheville, NC! I just finished my first brake drum forge. I am very intrested in smithing and would like to try my hand at knife making. I have a few questions though. What does HT, RC, and HRc stand for? Also Would I be better off using coke or coal? Lastly I have been told a good thing to try my first kinfe out of is a non case hardened file. How do I tell if they have been case hardened or not? Any input on these subjects is appreciated! A few pics of the brake drum forge I just built! Completed it for just under $40, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrous Beuler Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Before you have a fire in your new forge look up the term "metal fume fever". Very important. DO NOT have that first fire until you do. Galvanized metal causes toxic fumes when heated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMcCormick Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 I was going to burn the forge for a few hours outside awayfrom everything to get the stuff off of it. Everywhere I went either did not carry 2" black Iron or was out so I got the galvanized and figured a good long burn outside would take the stuff off of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Its not worth it to try it. If it all doesn't burn off you will die a fast, painful death. Don't mess with zinc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Actually that part of your forge will not be likely to get hot enough to melt the zinc. Still, to be thoroughly cautious, go ahead and disassemble the galvanized pipes from the rest of the forge and soak them in vinegar for a day or two (until the galvanizing is all removed). No need to burn it off and this way you'll actually get it clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMcCormick Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 Actually that part of your forge will not be likely to get hot enough to melt the zinc. Still, to be thoroughly cautious, go ahead and disassemble the galvanized pipes from the rest of the forge and soak them in vinegar for a day or two (until the galvanizing is all removed). No need to burn it off and this way you'll actually get it clean. Cool! Thanks for the info bigfoot! I was looking into muriatic acid also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 I wouldn't wory too much about the piping, looks just like mine. That part doesn't get too hot (relitivly speaking). For safety's sake pulling the zinc off won't hurt. Better safe than sorry. As far as first forging. Get an old truck leaf spring. Wrecking yards will probably give them too you, or sell for cheap. That steel us normally 5160 (I haven't found one yet that wasn't). It's a little more forgiving on the forge than a file. In my experience 5160 doesn't "red shut" (break apart like cottage cheese when over heated) near as bad. Probably due to the chromium. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Be prepared for a long journey,,all of the things you mentioned like ht rc etc are all explained in this forum...most are in the heat treating sections as well as the knife forum. Take each as a question and find the answer,,then figure out how that will help you in the future..I think this approach will let the ifo stick with you longer. Many folks have spent a lot of there own time writing this information in here and it would simply short change you for us to give you a brief answer in here. anything you find that seems like you wish to dig into it further, print and put in shop binder. A coupe of books you may wish to add: $50 knife shop by Wayne Goddard. and the complete bladesmith by Jim Hrousllas. Enjoy the trip.IF youi get stuck in your research just ask in here and you will get more answers....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 With regards to the non case hardened file issue, if you take the file, wrap it in a cloth, place it in a vice with the top (tang end) uppermost, and secure the jaws on a piece where the teeth are cut, Whack it with a hammer, and if the file snaps, it is good steel for a tool or blade, if it bends, then it is case hardened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Nice job on the forge....welcome to the beginning. Car leaf springs are good knife practice, and very usable tools, and often found for free in scrap bins. I prefer to use coke or hardwood charcoal. Though Both are easily available to me. Safety: be very aware of coatings on metals, and the alloys you heat, for fumes seen and not. Ventilation and/or a descent hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 HT heat treat (note that there are several different processes of which hardeing is only *1*, a different HT process can make the metal as soft as it's going to get---good idea to be specific as to what HT process is being talked about!) Rc and HRc refers to hardness on the Rockwell c scale as determined by a Rockwell Hardness tester see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rockwell_scale As to coal vs coke the answer is "it depends". What is most economical where you are, what you plan to use it for and possibly the most important factor---which *YOU* prefer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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