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I Forge Iron

helve hammer


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Dan..I keep examining the pics and number 22 shows the spring pivot mount... except I can't tell how they pivot.. the bracket holding them looks like it's solid mounted to the frame and the shaft looks like it has a bolt locking it from turning. I know they must pivot,but it's just not obvious from the pics how they are able to do so.

All I can figure is there is a very tight fit between the spring clamp and the shaft mount which is so tight it is hardly visible.

Could you clarify Please.. Thank You.

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Dan..I keep examining the pics and number 22 shows the spring pivot mount... except I can't tell how they pivot.. the bracket holding them looks like it's solid mounted to the frame and the shaft looks like it has a bolt locking it from turning. I know they must pivot,but it's just not obvious from the pics how they are able to do so.

All I can figure is there is a very tight fit between the spring clamp and the shaft mount which is so tight it is hardly visible.

Could you clarify Please.. Thank You.


I'm not sure what you are seeing in No.22, that is a photo of the mounting for the springs and helve, the only other thing thing they are attached to is the cam (eccentric?) thingy in No.17.

Now, if you look at post No. 16 you will see some little galvanized washers, peeping out just below the motor pulley, on the pedal bar. That is where the bar pivots. The only other thing that the bar is attached to is the thing in post No. 20, and the spring in front of the frame which returns it to idle position.

In post No.21 it may appear that the thing pictured in No. 20 is attached to the frame, but it is not.

As is often my problem, I don't really have the language to describe these things, and so I'm not sure what you mean by spring clamp or shaft mount, but I hope it should be easy enough to work out.

If it clarifies anything, looking at along its length from the hammer end, the pedal bar that extends along the left attaches to the rod that activates the fork, and thus the hammer. The bar that goes down the right hand side doesn't do anything except attach to the pivot and has a cross bar that hold everything in place.
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I think you will be in a situation of altering the springs and seeing how it affects the hammer action. looser springs will make the action a little bit soft but there may be more whip . tighten it up a little and see how it behaves.....
guard them anyway do not think about the whole spring breaking off but high velocity shards as well......... (not exaggerating the risk here one of my broken springs broke into 2 big pieces and two sharp smaller ones). Your coil springs will not be under the pressure that a LG spring is but .....none the less.
to se exactly what is happening as the hammer is working may involve a strobe, a micro switch and video camera......

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really interesting - i love your hammer dan, and i would really like to see it working , and hear it :)
i want to just take you up on a point you made earlier, and im afraid its about the hair.. having met you in person, i have to say, hand on heart, that you look like an entirely different human being now! i can only surmise that its a shape shifting effect living in the shires is having on you, and that can only be a good/curious thing. your wife is a talented and gifted hairdresser, as am i :) and i too, agree whole heartedly that it is a symptom of Chronic social jumble and disorder for men to Pay for (or care particularly about) hair cuts. if this subject was addressed more fully by society as a whole, we would all be a lot hapier :)

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Owen, thank you for the stream of sound advice that you have offered.

Beth, I am a seasonal hair cuttee. Spring means time to thin the thatch.
As it happens, poor Mrs. P. is not entirely responsible for my strange tonsure, as some weeks previously I had cut my own hair (Step 1; Put elastic band around head. Step 2; Cut away hair that is in the line of vision, using elastic band as a straight edge) and she, tired of walking around with someone she described as looking like a "medieval henchman", was left trying to make the best of a bad lot.

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i cannot trust my wife to do my hair... i once had my ear cut with scissors... :(
so i for one perpetuate the social disorder of buying a cut.
and support small business......!
my hairstyle is usually ww1 whitewall..... with pomade of course!

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Had one of those 14 year old boy's fights with my mom about the haircut she was giving me. She said "cut it yourself" I said "fine". I'm 67 now and haven't paid for a haircut since 1959! Only shaved four times since then...
Love the Hammer!!! Helves always have a pure sort of look to them. Don't want to part with my LG 25# though.

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Well, I fired her up today.This is not the most refined beast in the world, but I do not expect her to be. There is some fine tuning to do of the springs tension etc, but mostly I am pleased with how she goes.
But, there are two problems. One I think is intractable; When the fork brings the belt back to the idle position, it causes the belt to twist slightly, which increases its tension, which causes the drive wheel (which the belt is still on) to go like the clappers which causes the last two or three beats of the hammer to be considerably stronger than those preceeding them. It's not the worst thing in the world, some belt dressing might help with it.

The other problem is more serious; she wobbles from side to side quite alot. The movement seems to be coming from her hind end, I think from the idle wheel. She is sat on sleepers, which sit on the clay beneath my floor, and I have a nasty feeling that the top of the problem is simply inadequate footing.

Anyway, video to come.

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I see two things, I think. First is the timbers you're using for the base. If you lay some crosswise it'll broaden the base and it won't be able to rock much if at all. Lay them with the crown up so the ends are tighter to the floor.

The second thing I think I don't see is crown on the driven pullies, they look flat. Without a little crown in the contact area the belt will wander and turn over. I may be wrong about a lack of crown, I'm only looking at the pics. In person I'd lay a ruler across the pully and that'd tell the story.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, you are right about the timbers. I think the footing for this hammer will have to be re-done, unfortunately. I think the rocking is pretty much inevitable given the mechanism, unless the hammer is fixed to something really stable.

The other problem, that of the clutch, has become even more complicated. The balance between the belt driving the drive wheel and over-driving it is,thus far, a mystery to me. Unfortunately, my only reference to this kind of clutch is a few internet videos, soI'm sure there are details I'm missing out on.

Anyway, after fannying about with it for the last two days, I am leaning toward replacing it with a slack belt clutch, which generally makes much more sense to me.
I did find a video of this guy, who seems to have his fork clutch well enough sorted, but it seems perhaps at the expense of his hammer giving real welly.

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There's no brake. It's not so much that the belt grabs, but that the mechanism is quite heavy and sluggish. In order to get it going at a decent pace at the begining, you have to really stomp on the pedal, and then be very delicate in easing off. There is (was) a seperate issue of the belt twisting (causing it to shorten and tighten) which made the hammer go a bit mental.
I the event, both problems have been solved by tightening the belt a good deal.

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The hammer in the video is a French 'martinet Durabo' there may be quite a lot of them rusting and rotting in barns around the country...
Milou's shop is at about one hour from me, I've shoed horses in his village and didn't even hear about him, that's sad...

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More fine tuning to be done. It's still not very stable on its footing and the chuffing belt keeps stretching.
Here's a video of some ugly bastard trying to forge some 1" square with not quite the right pair of tongs;

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