Hayden H Posted April 5, 2012 Posted April 5, 2012 I've tried 3 times un successfully to use Ease-Outs to remove bolts out of vise gibs. I popped my right thumb out of place trying to turn the blasted tap wrench. Theres right around 1/16 of metal left between the drilled bolt holes and the holes they're threaded into. Should I jsut completely drill them out? They're set into cast steel with a cast iron wedge, so over drilling to deep is gonna be pretty hard to do. If all else I'll just over drill and re-tap the screws. I think they're metric to begin with and all I use is SAE Quote
ThomasPowers Posted April 5, 2012 Posted April 5, 2012 Can you use a drill press in UNPOWERED mode to apply pressure and give you a larger piece to grab and rotate? My press is large enough that I can slip a bar into the cross hole that allows you to knock the taper bits out and have an easy lever to turn. Quote
pkrankow Posted April 5, 2012 Posted April 5, 2012 If you are drilled down to near the thread depth you can use a pick and break the threads of the bolt clear from the threads of the casting. If you are careful then the threads in the casting will be undamaged, but probably should be chased out with a tap. Part of the question is why is this broken bolt such a problem? Is is rusted in, did you use pennetrant? Was/is it bottomed out, so had extra pressure on the threads? If there is enough metal remaining, and you can get at both sides, you can gently tap with a hammer and punch both ways to try massaging the threads free. I have had good luck with easy-outs, but not when everything is rusty. Phil Quote
petere76 Posted April 5, 2012 Posted April 5, 2012 If rust is the issue on your frozen parts, before you break out the drills, heat the stud and surrounding area with a torch and when its hot, apply bees wax. The Bees wax is an excellent penetrant and in my experience, it frequently frees up frozen threads. Just let the piece cool off and wrench on whatever point of leverage you may have. That said , you may still be stuck with having to drill out the stud and use the not-so easy outs but at least you tried the easiest way first. Quote
Hayden H Posted April 6, 2012 Author Posted April 6, 2012 Its soaking in penetrant for the weekend. If that doesn't work, high heat'll be next, and after that brute force. Quote
Rich Hale Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 E Z outs work best if the bolt broke off while being tightened. You know the threads are not stuck together. If it breaks when removing it the bolt is stil stuck. I like a little narrow cape chisel and run it down one side after drilling like you have done. The you may be able to start the shel folding in on itself, if not try sliting the other side,,the two halves should come out, You may do a little damage to the base metal threads but should still work. Quote
ciladog Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 The hole size you drill for any given spiral fluted extractor is specific. If the hole is too large then the action of using the extractor will expand the bolt and tighten it in the threads. Straight fluted extractors have less wedging effect than sprial screw extractors, so have less tendency to lock the screws into place. Quote
John McPherson Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 Besides using various penetrants combined with heat/cool cycles (candle wax seems to work as well as bees wax) and easy-outs, I have an index set of left handed drill bits that I find indispensable to free stuck bolts. Instead of wedging the bolt tighter in the hole, it will usually back it out when you get deep enough. It does require a reversible drill, I just use a hand held drill, corded or cordless. Center punch and start with a pilot hole as usual, before going to a bit size just under the minor diameter of the threads. When all else fails, I fall back on small abrasive bits in a hand held air tool or electric grinder, and profanity. Quote
Hayden H Posted April 6, 2012 Author Posted April 6, 2012 I've got the Snap On lefty bit set and a few other odd sizes. I used a corded Makita to drill the out. I may just end up boring them out entirely and re-tapping the holes as needed Quote
jeremy k Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 You didn't say what size bolt, If you have a hole "in" that bolt, tig weld it shut as deep as you can - the weld shrinking will free the stubborn bolt from surounding threads, and you can turn it out after all is cooled and some lube - done this many many times for people. Quote
Hayden H Posted April 7, 2012 Author Posted April 7, 2012 THATS GENIUS!!!! I'll give it a try after letting it sit in penetrant and trying the ease out again. Quote
pkrankow Posted April 7, 2012 Posted April 7, 2012 Weld shrinkage is mighty powerful stuff. While you are doing that, drill a hole in a suitably long piece of 1x1/4 or 1x1/2 stock and plug weld it to the bolt so you don't have to mess about with a wrench. Phil Quote
MOblacksmith0530 Posted April 9, 2012 Posted April 9, 2012 Find a washer that covers the threaded portion of the broken bolt and weld that to the hole you have drilled grind it flat and weld a nut onto the washer, grab your wrench and unscrew it Quote
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