Drewed Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 So I picked up a small (9") band saw the other day for light cutting duties, stock under 1/2". I did pick up a metal cutting blade for it ( VA - homedepot special ) and it barily made a scratch in the 1/2 wrought I was trying to cut. The 1/4 a36 didn't cut any better. I know that this saw is techincally too fast for metal wook ( approx 3000 rpm ) but there has to be a better blade that can work with this. Any recomendations on manufacture and blade style that can chew threw this stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_m Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Buying a quality bi-metal blade will help, you generally get what you pay for with that stuff. But if you're running the saw at 3000 RPM it will just be a more expensive blade that you ruin. I'm assuming this a vertical bandsaw for woodworking...if so, and you bought it primarily for cutting metal, just sell it and buy a used horizontal bandsaw or a portaband. As far as manufacturers go, there are a number of good ones, Lenox, Starrett etc, but I would just order the size you need on McMaster, they don't specify a manufacturer but won't send you junk. A variable pitch blade is always nice for general purpose work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Wot he said is hard to take if you just dropped some bucks for a saw. They list some of those saws as capable of cutt4ing metal and wood. And they will as long as the metal is soft like aluminum. I got a larger wood cutting band saw and knew of the speed issue so i planned on a change. I removed all of the pulleys and modified the base cabinet to allow the use of a combination of large and small pulleys to drastically reduce the speed. That speed is measured in feet per minute not by revolutions per minute. If you check with the companies that make bimetallic blades for steel they will have data for the feet per minute needed to cut the steel you tell them about. Then you can determine what sets of pulleys can do that for you. The really nice alternative fix would be to change the motor to a variable speed with a controller. Figure on about $500 for that change give or take. That would allow an instant speed change if you do aluminum or steel. The other consideration is that machines made to cut steel are usually built to handle that task better than lighter ones for wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Bah, Feet per minute! I brain farted that! Thinking along the worng lines. This saw is cogged belt driven, so changing out the pullies shoulded be too bad. Then again, swapping out the motor might be the better plan. $500 for the motor! Yikes, I paid $100 for the saw.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Maybe you could flip it to a woodworker and get a metal saw. Trying to convert a wood to metal is going to be a flail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I converted a vertical wood bandsaw to metal. I installed a gear reducer motor I bought on ebay. It's not mounted in the same place but works great. The speed you would need depends on your saws speed or pulley setup. Now I don't have to straddle my horizontal saw when cutting vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 I converted a vertical wood bandsaw to metal. I installed a gear reducer motor I bought on ebay. It's not mounted in the same place but works great. The speed you would need depends on your saws speed or pulley setup. Now I don't have to straddle my horizontal saw when cutting vertical. Thats cool. What typr of motor did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Those Harbor Freight horiz/vert bandsaws are cheap and cheesy, but with some twiddling they do work. Bimetallic blade is the way to go - and you may as well get a good one like a Starrett (Enco has them on special every so often). If you're going to be cutting thin stuff, remember you need three teeth in the cut all the time -- so if it's 1/8" stock, you can't go finer than 16 tpi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Fraser Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Make sure the blade is on the right direction, it happens. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Make sure the blade is on the right direction, it happens. Chuck I'm trying to picture this - if you put it on wrong, won't the teeth be on the back? Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Fraser Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 No, if the band saw blade gets turned inside out the teeth will be backward. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksanderson Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Agree with all the guys, but above and beyond the blade being on backwards, it has to be the speed and feed that is causing the problems. I would check out the BLOGS at www.bandsawblog.com I'd bet you're just bouncing the blade across the material! They write informative blogs often during the week which I have found to be very educational and informative. They are attached to www.sawblade.com who have the best prices on American made HaltbarSagen engineered band saw blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamfab Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Dear Jack, I often buy blades from my local supplier. When I read your post, I gave it a try. That website www.sawblade.com really worked out for me. I had to try them based on pricing alone! The sales representative was very cheerful and helpful on the other line. Sometimes, that helps after a hard day's work. I ordered their 201 series Carbon Hardback blades and so far, so good. Thank you for the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Hi, The best blades I've ever used are Amada. I don't know what size you use, but my 1" blades last close to 6mos w/daily use from ms to d2 and all points in between. Well worth the $. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosox Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 John, I’m glad you’re getting that much life out of your blades. You must be “doing it” right! However, in high production sawing as in commercial applications, blades may only last 2-3 weeks, depending on the materials being worked.. I have the same blades as Jack. I've been using them in my shop(with everyday usage and do higher production than you may?) and usually resupply my inventory about every 3 weeks. I get my blades at 30% off regular retail at www.sawblade.com. They are out of Houston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Bosox, I don't do any production work, but the saw does get used daily. The saw shop where I have my cold saw blades resharpened suggested using a more concentrated solution of water soluabe oil for longer blade life. It seems to make a difference. Thanks for the link! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Thats cool. What typr of motor did you get? Sorry, I haven't checked in for a while. I purchased my motor with reducer from Ebay. Just ran the numbers an dpicked a speed that was close. I adjusted with pulleys as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Some of the folks on the craftsman lathe forum use the motor and controls from tread mills which can be found curbside or on CL cheap, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knots Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 So I picked up a small (9") band saw the other day for light cutting duties, stock under 1/2". I did pick up a metal cutting blade for it ( VA - homedepot special ) and it barily made a scratch in the 1/2 wrought I was trying to cut. The 1/4 a36 didn't cut any better. I know that this saw is techincally too fast for metal wook ( approx 3000 rpm ) but there has to be a better blade that can work with this. Any recomendations on manufacture and blade style that can chew threw this stock? It just occurred to me that this might be one of those saws with a self contained motor. How about a picture, and some information about the motor . If the motor is built in and drives the bottom wheel directly then there is not much you can do to control the saw speed . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishinbo Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 I might have to try your blade recommendations here. Hopefully, it will turn out well for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petere76 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Try, Moore Co blades, bimetal, 14 TPI. They work well for our small portables. The 1/2 in blades flex a lot in use, so they have to be able to take a beating. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Lennox has just put up a "blade selection" application on it's website. Their blades are among the best...http://www.sawcalc.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camero68 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Interesting choices of blade recommendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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