GNJC Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hello all, I’ll be doing some demonstrations at shows over the next few months and, being new to this, want advice as to the best 'instant' finish to put on newly-forged items. Usually I give my work a good wire brushing and then coat the decorative stuff in Renaissance Wax and the eating stuff in a food-oil. At shows I’m not going to have time to brush as thoroughly as usual, so I want a fast, attractive finish. I’ve done a search but haven’t found anything specifically on ‘instant’ finishes so please advise on what you think is suitable to go on a briefly brushed item and at what sort of heat it should be applied. Thanks in advance. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Vegetable oil on terri cloth (towel material) applied at a black heat makes a nice durable black finish almost like seasoning cast iron pots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dablacksmith Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 might try johnsons paste wax applied hot (not too hot just below smokeing). have used this and it can come out nice.. for eating utensils a spray oil (dont aim it at the fire!) works nice..i use mostly rustolium crystal clear spray paint.its easy and durable dosent hide details but protects from rust... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I just use a wire brush and then beeswax on hot. Folk have to hang around/come back to pick it up when the metal has cooled down though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNJC Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Thanks all of you. Veg' oil and beeswax I know but I'd not heard of the paste wax until this post, it is not easy to here in the UK though. Veg' oil I have by the bucket. The only way I see beeswax is in small blocks at crazy prices, any suggestions at to an economic source of beeswax over here Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Budd Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 find somebody who keeps bees. I often acquire blocks from random sources every now and then. I've found 1kg blocks from a woodworking supplier some years ago, had some broken beeswax candles from a posh shop that couldn't sell them at full price (gave them £10 for what would've been £50 worth candles, or £30 of little blocks from the shop), I've had odd blocks from beekeepers that I meet. Living history type sellers often have larger blocks for sale at reasonable prices too. Or, dare I say it, Ebay may have some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 The only way I see beeswax is in small blocks at crazy prices, any suggestions at to an economic source of beeswax over here Dave? Find a bee keeper. You may have to clean it, which is easy. You melt it and pour hot water through it, then decant the wax off through a sieve and let it solidify. You can also let it solidify on the water then mechanically separate the clean wax from the rest. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin W Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Here is a version of the wax and oil mix I really like, I made a mild steel towel bar and used this finish on it... 2 + yrs in a steamy bathroom (two showers a day) and it showes NO sign of rust. The bar has no moving parts, just a bar on the wall. The wax I use is' Turtle Wax Express Shine ' spray on car wax, it is liquid. The brand dosn't matter, whats improtant is that the directions read something like "spray on and wipe off". The bottle reads a " special blend of natural carnauba wax and polymer shining agents that ..." and when I found about it seems like it was said the special agents were micro-crysteline wax. Just can't exactly remember what makes it special, or, where I heard about it. You dont want the the car wax that I grew up with that you buff and buff and buff. Mix it 50/50 with oil (I use linseed just because I got a lot of it). It dosn't truely mix with oil you just keep it evenly suspended, stiring and applying with a naturail hair chip brush. A little cooler than black heat, when the mix dosn't flash fire, brush it on constantly until the mix stops sizzling and popping. Then buff. It smells like Hell. Definately not for eating off of. Good luck at the shows, Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Giles, What's already been said, or use a candle instead of the beeswax, pure beeswax usually leaves a sticky finish, there should be a beekeper at the shows, The alternative I favour is the beeswax based furniture creams the beekeepers sell at the shows, put it on warm, a couple of applications, and wipe and buff when cool, Clear acrylic lacquer in an aerosol is also useful at the shows, applied whilst metal is still warm, but not hot otherwise you will get a crinkly/bubbled finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 parifin wax( candle wax) works as well. I tend to hit the demo pieces with a quick brass brush ( to add some color and highlights,) and while still warm use the heat of the peice to melt on the wax, then buff it with a corner of my apron ( or any old hunk of leather.) Works fast. Is really cool if you can hand a still warm ( but not hot!!!) peice to somebody. Have a non-smith check the temp on it though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 or you could try Briwax, (floor wax/furniture/wood wax) Giles. Not for eating off, (although I suppose the saying goes some people have floors you can eat off... but definitely not mine!! :) ) gives a pretty good finish when brushed with a natural bristle brush on hot metal, not so hot it smokes, but just under that heat, so it melts on and spreads easily and gets into all the nooks and crannys if there are any. Won't stand up for a long time for outdoors, but good as an indoor finish for candlestands etc. I ran out once and just used a candle like John B has suggested, and that worked fine too, but have to be careful not to leave "drips" that solidify. And like John B I also like the beeswax paste mixes you can get, easier to apply with a brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GNJC Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Hmm... thanks again all. I think I shall do some experimenting. Drewed, brass / bronze brush giving 'highlights' is a good point. I have a fair number of lumps of cherry sap / resin, will give that a go too. I shall post my conclusions. Colleen, dogs keep my floors sparkling! :) Sadly my toddler has started copying them... :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 When I used to do outdoor shows I tried waxes and even burned on linseed oil, but just the sun and outdoor heat would melt it slightly. Not good to hand a sticky piece of work to someone. So I started just hand brushing the part and spray painting it with these quick dry clear finishes that are available. Dries in ten minutes and it would take more time than that to wax and buff. I used that method for over ten years with no problem. Makes a nice finish, too, if you get the semi-gloss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Usually I give my work a good wire brushing and then coat the decorative stuff in Renaissance Wax and the eating stuff in a food-oil. That seems reasonably instant to me! The advantages of rubbing it with a block of beeswax when black hot would be the drama of the smoke (and hopefully flames) for the audience...the smell would be a definite plus for them too. Normal longevity disadvantages of beeswax apply, sticky at room temperature and the organic inclusions breaking down forming corrosion points, but hey! that's showbiz! How do you apply the Renaissance Wax normally? I make up my own and make it very thin, (think pourable) so I can apply it fast with a paint brush. I would think a finish with a bit of creep like a wax would be best given that you are not able to brush and remove all lightly adhering surface layers. If a bit of scale pops off taking the lacquer with it, no more finish, at least wax would creep over or get redistributed by handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 I got a recipe from a you tube Purgatory Ironworks video. I believe it's just equal thirds, beeswax, turpentine, and tung oil. You have to melt the beeswax, then add the oil, then the turpentine. The final mixture is a soft cream that you can apply cold if necessary. I've found if the metal is warm it goes on smooth, fast, and smells great. It's also fairly awesome as a waterproofing leather treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 I spray shellac a lot of work as it drops down to black heat after a wire brush. Too hot and the finish bubbles but below that the alcohol in the shellac dries out almost immediately. Not the most durable finish but it is food safe. Never did this at a demo, just in the backyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 "Sadly my toddler has started copying them..." Had a similar problem when my kids were crumb crushers too and I had to start feeding the cat on top of refrigerator otherwise his bowl was always empty. Johnson's Paste Wax is pretty good for non-food items, Renaissance Wax is good but is it ever expensive so I just plain brown noncrystalline wax that I use for lost wax casting on non-food items it cheaper just not as refined a RW. I still like carbonized linseed oil finishes on iron work it seems to last a long time. I never made all that many food use items to worry about what to use on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Renaissance Wax is good but is it ever expensive Considering it is 75% white spirit it is ridiculously expensive. That is why I make up my own! I make it with 80/90% white spirit to make it brushable. You can buy a sackful of microcrystalline and the poylthene wax for a few pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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