mudbugone Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Welcome back David... This link might answer some questions about various abrasives http://www.carborundumindustrial.com/CarboAbrasiveProductsGeneral.aspx I had a chart on the cups I bought that showed their use,but evidently I didn't save it or I lost it in space... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtom Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 At the shop where I work, we use Sait cup wheels for agressive removal of weld buildup. The ones which we normally use are A-16 heavy duty Aluminum Oxide. I think that no matter how you slice it, you will be doing a lot of grinding to level up your anvil. If it were me, I would try to have the weld decked off level on a milling machine. It would save a lot of time and trouble and should not cost too much. With the appropriate sized carbide insert face mill, you could cover the face in one pass, however it may take several passes in depth to achieve a true surface - depending on the flatness of the buildup. With the hard facing material, machining RPM will be reduced, but it will certainly be more efficient than grinding. I noticed an earlier post that mentioned using a shaper. These are great machines albeit slow. I own one and love it. It might be a difficult operation in this instance due to the hardness and the interupted cut of the weld build. As long as you can keep the tool bit in the weld, it might be fine, however 55HRC is a bit much for a high speed tool bit. I have never tried carbide in the shaper, but I don't expect that it would stand up. In this case M42 with a very slow SFM would probably be the best all around choice for shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I guess I'm marching to the beat of a different drummer, I just don't see the need to repair either one of those fine looking anvils. You could probably sell them both and find one that doesn't have any problems and save both time and money plus all of that energy. Let's get real here they ain't all that bad! :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old South Creations Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 I agree. I don't understand risking ruining what appears to 2 usuable anvils. Sure, they're not perfect but looking at the pictures they appear to be VERY usuable anvils as is. I've seen far more ruined anvils after "fixing" than good ones. Have you even tried using them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Here are the cups I got to take down the rough stuff... Thank You--mrtom for the suggestions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Yes I have used and am still using them. Fortunately for me that the destroyed edges are on opposite side for each anvil..so I can work near side on one and far side on the other. The larger anvil has a significant sway that the picture does not really well show. The sway is a bit like a roll. The only flat part is the tail. It has been ground previously all the way to the sides. Both anvils have a good feel to them. It is just the top is buggered up so badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I'd say the older anvil has been ''fixed'' already so no harm in trying to improve the face on that one. If that Vanadium were mine I'd leave it be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 WARNING WARNING DANGER DANGER DR SMITH DR SMITH! Remember when discussing surface grinders, milling machines, shapers, etc: Often for anvils the face and foot are NOT PARALLEL. Not usually a problem for hand held grinders; but I have personally seen several anvils where they milled the face to clean it up and MILLED THROUGH THE FACE at one end because the face and base were not parallel. So they threw away solid gold face to protect the trash base. The proper methodology, if you have to do this, is to flip the anvil over and true the base to the face and then flip it again and just lightly kiss the face to clean it up. The older anvils were all hand forged in open dies steam hammers---or even by teams of strikers with sledges. No reason they should be perfectly parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Excellent point and well taken...everyone never thinks of everything...That makes even things that we know & forget important.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 I got my supply of new grinding wheels in yesterday so I had to give the "stone" a try. It seems that the welding supply guys that I had been using for my grinding supplies were out to lunch in the knowledge department. Theu had been supplying me with discs that provided them more sales margin while giving me about adequate grinding ability. Yes there is a trade-off but here is what I found out yesterday. Those stone cupped grinding wheels are some really go-getting cutting machines. When I ground some hard stuff this stone went after it like a Pirannah! Not pretty mind you but effective. The flap discs can make the pretty work then, even on the hard faced material. Now I am ordering my rods or wire to do the anvil repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I know how difficult it can be to work on an anvil that has a face that rolls like the ocean! It's aggravating and time-consuming, to say the least. What are you grinding with the cups? Looking at your pictures, I can see some need to clean up the gouges and edges prior to welding, but it sounds like you're looking to level the top prior to adding hard-face. Did I read that right? Were it I, I would prep the face for welding and then go to it. It's like adding pavement to a pot-holed road; you don't need to level out the road prior to resurfacing it. Some weld is used to build up the low spots, then you go over the entire face to even things out. It's tricky around the hardy and pritchel, but copper dams help prevent weld flow where you don't want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 That is the plan...to fill in the lower spots..bring low to level...add a complete new base over everything..then overcoat with HF. I am looking forward to having a decent flat surface to work from...while having a good edge too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 David Steve,s welding here I have repaired over 45 anvils so far :<) ! rod I use & have had no problem with is Stody 1105 arc rod and the other rod I haven't yet is 2110 top pass or on edges a bit harder DO NOT USE Hard Face rod !!! wrong --- other rods not as hard but do work 7018 - or better 70110 6011 is another bad idea to brittle & there's MG 710 I think also I haven't use it yet some here have many of my anvils are in blacksmith school setting and are get beat BAD but no chipped welds yet & there 10 years old now I just ck 5 of them @ a hammer in I was at still in good shape other than chisel & hammer marks lol Good Luck Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 According to the charts the Stoody 1105 rods are a build-up electrode .... If I'm following your comment correctly you're saying the Stoody 1105 rod is a good choice but don't use the HF top coat Stoody 2110 rods ? It's been suggested to use 7018 by many that have used it to repair anvils...although I think that's because it's acceptable in light of the extreme cost of Stoody rods. I have access to some 10018 (or maybe 11018 ) since you have some expertise in this perhaps you could provide some thinking on those rods. Thanks for weighing in on this discussion your knowledge is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Now we are getting intop a problem area...my info was to use Stoody 2110 3/16 as the build up rod ..to level the low spots and to create an acceptable bond between whatever is there and the HF rod Stoody 1105 1/8 inch, with 2 passes max. I have never welded on an anvil yet but have welded lots of 7018, 11018, 7016, 7014, and a boatload of 6011, etc. What is the rebound of the anvils that you have welded on? That information is of interest to most everyone here. And not wanting to sound too arrogant because I really do want to know. From reading about this proceedure there has been posting about one proceedure to the next that gives differing results. Personally if I am going to all this trouble I want my lifetime toy to be the best that it can be and not just shaped well by some welding technique. If I come over as being too harsh I do appoligize. Many of us here are very interested in this very similar project. Thanks David G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 David... You might want to read this thread I found in the plans section http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0101-anvil-repair-r330 I can't believe no one else knew this existed in the archives. Pretty similar repair to your situation and it might help you in restoring your anvils... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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