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NEW DOVETAIL FOR 25# LG


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A friend brought me this 25# LG that he had cut the frame off because of a broken dovetail. He sawed it off with a porta-band. I mouned it in my shaper, squared it up. In the coming week I will cut the dove tail and build a sow block. I am putting this dovetail 90 degrees to the die so we can align the dies without shims. this the first time I have done this change. post-3508-0-95975400-1328410323_thumb.jppost-3508-0-84497900-1328410375_thumb.jppost-3508-0-27655900-1328410448_thumb.jppost-3508-0-87379300-1328410528_thumb.jppost-3508-0-35065900-1328410584_thumb.jppost-3508-0-68530100-1328410671_thumb.jp

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I finished the dovetail on the 25#. I'm pleased with the work, not very often you get to see this nice a dovetail on a 100 year old machine. This is an expensive fix but it saves a frame. You have to buy one like this cheap or you will have too much money in it.post-3508-0-85035100-1328475887_thumb.jppost-3508-0-99599300-1328475958_thumb.jppost-3508-0-19386000-1328476008_thumb.jp

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This is no simple task. I have a shaper deditcated to working on dovetails. The block has to come off and a heavy angle plate made and installed on the apron. After the frame is on the shaper I have to square up the frame useing the ram guide as a reference. This can be a slow, aggravating process. Start to finish took 7 1/2 hours. but the end result is very rewarding.post-3508-0-68566400-1328478317_thumb.jp

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It's a 14 inch Gavin line belt machine. Put an old 3 speed car trany and a 1 hp motor on it. I can do 25s and 50s. A 1000 # casting hanging out front has to have a set of wheels under the angle plate for support. I looked at a bigger shaper but the slide was too large to clear the ram guide on the hammers. I try to true up every hammer I rebuild. I also like to widen the dovetail a little so we can use a thicker die key.

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Phil,

What amount of step-over are you using per stroke? Just looking at that makes me wince. Try using a much larger nose radius on the HSS bit in the lantern-style holder, i.e. .100" radius. (or just get a bigger piece of HSS with a correspondingly larger holder that will fit your lantern), and increase the step-over 300-400%, that will reduce your time drastically when facing. Also, a trick I just learned is to get rid of the lantern type holder, and get a solid block of steel drilled with two holes and then reamed (square) to fit whatever size HSS you want to use, and mount a double set of HSS bits in the block. One to rough, and the second to finish (typically with a larger nose radius). That way with every stroke you are doing double work. BTW I'm only mentioning this all to help out, b/c I just spend about 21 hours this weekend milling aluminum for a bar twisting machine i'm making, and anything to speeeeeeddddddddddd up machine tools is worth spreading around. Nice work Phil, keep it up:)

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Thanks E.F. I understand what your saying but the setup is a little shaky. That large of tool nose and step over is just too much for this set up and tends to move the frame. Once I got it set up I just go slow and be patient. The green shaper (Hendy) in the background will stand up to that kind of work it will take off 1/4 inch square chips. It has a universal head that I use for sow blocks and die work. I prefere it to the mill for that work much cheaper to tool up.

PS I'm useing .040 step over & .060 deep

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Got a good start on the sow block. Cut off 5 inches of 7 inch round, that stuff is 11# per inch. Put it in the lathe faced 1 end and turned a taper down to 6 inch top. Then back to the drill press drilled 2 shallow holes
in the top to keep it from turning and to help index it in the shaper. Took about 1 1/2 hours to cut 1/2 the dovetail for the bottom. The 12 inch Hendey is a nice shaper 8 speeds and 3 axis table gives you alot to work with. post-3508-0-21734300-1328824604_thumb.jppost-3508-0-47936700-1328824679_thumb.jppost-3508-0-17344500-1328824737_thumb.jppost-3508-0-27055600-1328824776_thumb.jp

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Thomas, it's a 20" American Tool Works 6 foot centers 6,800 lbs. It is a work horse will cut 1 thread per inch slowest spindle speed 24 rpm

Phil, I taper the sow block so we can get better access to the dies, The working surface on a 25# is 2x3 if you leave the top big it makes some free hand forging very difficult. It took about 6 lbs. off.

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Newest update. Got the bottom dovetail finished. Now I am waiting on the owner to bring me the ram so I can be sure to get the die angle in register with the top die. I am also going to make a new top shaft so I can put the pulley and clutch out back so the clutch and belts can be serviced without removeing the bearing caps.post-3508-0-35929700-1329179964_thumb.jppost-3508-0-82872900-1329180002_thumb.jppost-3508-0-88233000-1329180030_thumb.jppost-3508-0-31635400-1329180097_thumb.jp

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the ram on Wed. so today I got to work on the sow block. After putting the block in the frame and the ram with die in the guide. I was able to get a line scribed where the dove tail would line up. Put the block back in the shaper and went to work, the pics show the rest of the story. That is finished. Now the owner post-3508-0-69723900-1330133122_thumb.jp is thinking maybe he wants me to finish the hammer rebuild. For sure build a long shaft to put the clutch out back and build the brake. More pics to follow. post-3508-0-80193600-1330133220_thumb.jppost-3508-0-96013500-1330133274_thumb.jp

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