Borntoolate Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I purchased Lorelei's book about 6 months ago or so. I finally felt like I had gained eough understanding of fire control, visual management of heat in the forge, the purpose and application of flux etc.... In order to try the "advanced" Basket Weave Handle project on page 147 of her book "The Back Yard Blacksmith". Hopefully I don't infringe on any sort of copywright stuff. I mention the book and the author only because that is what got me in a position to try this and also based on the book gave me enough info and pics to be successful. Thank You Lorelei. I didn't follow all directions to a tee tho because I am stubborn, hard headed and I have other info that I just try.... I wired together four 1/4 in diameter round bars by 6.5 inches long and I mig welded them with a tiny spot weld in the center of the square on the ends. I heated, fluxed with roach proof borax and forge welded them together (ends only). This was my first, successful, by myself, two forge welds. I think they both are good welds. I twisted the whole thing together and then untwisted them to get this. I have not tweaked this and it is not perfect but I like it! I would like to open this thread in order to encourgage others to try both the "elusive" forge weld as well as to help talk through the untwisting part of making this type of handle in order to make it uniform. Now I must admit that I cheated a bit because of the spot mig weld on the ends. The book says to wire it together. Not everyone has a welder and of course they did not have that back in the day. However, anyone that has a decent forge, that can provide sufficient heat, and can control that heat can make the forge welds. From there it is a matter of controlling the un-twisting for a nice handle. YOU CAN DO IT! I am willing to make some step by step pics if that is desired. I got positive feedback from some previous step by step pics on scrolls and collaring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Nice job BTL. To tweek my basket twists to a more uniform basket, I reheat the whole twist and use a flat tip screwdriver to spread open the legs evenly. Mark <>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I have thought about how to tweak this and it seems hard to move any single bar.. much. you can move them relative to each other by squeezing... but to move just one it seems that you might move the whole thing. So this tweaking bit is a mental challenge to me. I admit I have not tried much at all. Then again what about expanding two bars instead of squeezing? On the flip side I think that the better you twist and untwist the less tweak is necessary. THough Lorelei says there is always some tweaking needed. Thanks Mark. Let's make this easy for everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Sorry, sounds like your Screwdriver approach actually expands not squeezes. Fantastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke978 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 It looks good. I've been planning to try the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I have thought about how to tweak this and it seems hard to move any single bar.. much. you can move them relative to each other by squeezing... but to move just one it seems that you might move the whole thing. So this tweaking bit is a mental challenge to me. I admit I have not tried much at all. Then again what about expanding two bars instead of squeezing? On the flip side I think that the better you twist and untwist the less tweak is necessary. THough Lorelei says there is always some tweaking needed. Thanks Mark. Let's make this easy for everyone Scrolling tongs can also be used to expand and close cage twists like these, and using two pairs and the vice, you can reposition individual strands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 And.... if you manage the piece while it's in the fire and keep a close eye on it you can heat individual bars more than others allowing you to move one piece without sending another out of whack. Practice, practice practice. I make my baskets out of solid stock for BBQ tool handles. Depending on the size of the stock I will either split with a hotcut or cut with an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I will cut all four sides till they meet in the middle. There are a few BP's here on how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I also cleaned each end that was to be forge welded. I belted sanded off all mill scale to clean bright metal. I assume this should not be necessary or is this a best practice just like any other weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 In my first attempts at the welded basket, I haywired them together. Later on, I tack welded them with the arc. One time, I picked up a pair of bolt tongs that just fit the four pieces. The four were compact and touching, so I just started fagot welding holding with tongs only. It was a pleasure getting rid of the wire and the arc welding. Round rods feel good for handles, but square bars look good, and can be used. Chamfer cornered square bars can be used. In any event, if using four pieces, you'll be forge welding a rough square because of the geometry of the thing. If you want a round sectioned forge weld, it will be S.O.R.* For fire tool handles, I use 9" lengths, because you'll be losing some in the lap weld and you'll lose more for the rat tail hanging portion. When you upset for the lap weld, this will test your fagot weld. Schwarzkopf* shows hot splitting a basket, but admits that forge welding is easier. I use scrolling tongs for fine tuning. *Square Octagonal Round *Ernst Schwarzkopf, "Plain and Ornamental Forging" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I make handles for camping cookware by taking election sign wire---about 1/8" and making baskets over a foot long. To get even baskets you need to heat evenly---the propane forge is much better than the coal for this! Sometimes I will unwind in two goes one for one end and another for the other and blend them in the middle. Unwinding them a bit too much and then rolling the basket on the anvil face while tapping funky areas down can help as well as the screwdriver technique mentioned. For long baskets I generally don't sweat perfection as they look quite nice even with natural variation---I don't want to make stuff look cold bent by machine! Now the pots I use are Revere Ware found at the fleamarket as they have a great handle stub to rivet my basket work handles too. Toughest basket I've made was from *OLD* rusty barbwire. Unfortunately enough folks have liked it that I need to do some more---this time I was thinking of dipping the ends in acid before welding to clean the rust off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borntoolate Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Thomas, Great idea with the gas forge. Now I have another use for mine that mostly sits since I went to coal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.