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wedge on Little Giant


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The wedge that holds the top die on my 50 lb. Little Giant keeps slipping out. I inserted a few shims of beer can aluminum in to take up any slop and the die stays put for a few heats and backs out. I beat the wedge back in and repeat the process.
If I recall correctly,I have the flat side of the wedge facing the back of the half dovetail and the tapered side facing the die. I beat the wedge while the die is in the hammer as opposed to taking out (would not know how) of the whole fixture.
Any tips on what I am doing wrong or suggestions?
Am I the only one who has had this problem. Is it time to order a new wedge. The end on this one has mushroomed so I have ground it over the years.
Thanks.

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Sid Suidmeier has a very lengthy discussion of fitting keys on the Little Giant web site: http://www.littlegianthammer.com/used.html
Give it a try. Also-Sid is VERY helpful and willing to talk to you on the phone. That top key is a double angled wedge. Get on the site and call him!!!

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I don't know if the beer's any better but Fosters's lager cans are made of steel.......Probly won't fix the problem but getting to it ain't all bad and you'll have some decent shim stock.......You OZ lot should have been on top of this already.....BURP......................

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There were to different style of upper keys used on old style 50s. One type has a double angle ground in, and the other has only a single taper. Make sure you get the right one. It's quite odd that the top die keeps coming loose most of the time it's the lower.

Check the angle of your dove tails using your die as a gauge. In some rare cases the ram dovetails have actually flared out (spread apart).

Dave from Diller

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If you are not sure of the fit paint the key (Dykem is best, a misting of primer is pretty good too)after the paint dries drive it in, then pull it out. It should be shiny almost all over. If it is not then you can fit it with Sid's instructions using dye in the way, then grind the colored spots, or use paint or Dykem on the wedge and grind the shiny spots (lather rinse repeat... paint, drive, grind) I fitted a large key (size of my forearm) in an Ajax press that way. It is time consuming.

Phil

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I agree with the above post, but there are a couple of things to check first, Make sure the corner of the dove tail on the die
that is the other side of the key has a good radius so it is not touching the corner in the ram. Next make sure the die dovetail is tapered from end to end. Also check to see if the dovetail in the ram is straight ( not tapered) end to end. And last after you get the key in, make sure it is not hitting the wrap around guide.

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x2

becareful not to over pound that key in ... i've seen a few hammers with broken dovetail grooves due to one side cracking off... most likely from over zealous hammering on the key

to repair an anvil is a big and costly job


Even with getting a new key make sure you follow the bluing in process. I machined a new key for my hammer and it was a good fit but it still needed some fine tuning.
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One thing to be careful of that does result in cracked dove tails is driving a wedge in hard in cold weather where the die is a male dove tail and the hammer female. Then after working jobs for a while the die heats up and expands, and "hey boss we got a broken dove tail on this hammer".
We normally use strapping strip for wedge packers.
The more effort you put into getting a good fit on your wedge the longer it will stay in for.
I always get our boys to drive the wedge in with a 14lb sledge on our hammers until I say the rebound hurts your hands. 14lb may be a bit of overkill for a LG but you get the drift.
Oh yeh grease the wedge too to assist you getting it out next time.

Phil

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