Ridgewayforge Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 For the limited help you had on this, you did a nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Nice job! The only suggestions I have are do more and radius the hole where the handle goes in so it compresses the wood instead of shearing the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMIB Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Nice job! The only suggestions I have are do more and radius the hole where the handle goes in so it compresses the wood instead of shearing the wood. Thanks Brian! I wish I could afford the time off work to come learn from you in person. :) This was a fun project, and I learned a lot just from this first one. When you flatten the "cheeks", do you use anything to raise the hammer off the anvil face? I ended up using the corner of the anvil so the edges of the hammer faces could hang freely over the edges without impacting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alec.S Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 We use fullers when forging the cheeks! Top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMIB Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 We use fullers when forging the cheeks! Top and bottom. Ah that makes sense. I was not working with a striker for this portion though, so that wouldn't work for me. I switched back and forth between the anvil horn to spread it faster, then flattening on the anvil corner (near, then far) and eventually just used a chunk of railroad track to finish flattening, since I could hang the hammer faces off the sides. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron quake Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I'd like to make a few hammers myself but don't have anyone to use as a striker, and really like to do work without depending on anyone else (call that North Idaho independent attitude) I'm wondering if I could drift the eye on my 14 ton Bentec press. I have about 12 inches of stroke to work with. I'd like to know if this is possible before making some H13 tools. Anyone know if this would work? I've seen video of the eye being done on a power hammer but don't think I have enough stroke on my old LG 100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I'd like to make a few hammers myself but don't have anyone to use as a striker, and really like to do work without depending on anyone else (call that North Idaho independent attitude) I'm wondering if I could drift the eye on my 14 ton Bentec press. I have about 12 inches of stroke to work with. I'd like to know if this is possible before making some H13 tools. Anyone know if this would work? I've seen video of the eye being done on a power hammer but don't think I have enough stroke on my old LG 100. You can make it work, you don't need a striker to make hammers, it just helps if you have the use of one. As you have an LG, I would consider making a punch for the eye from your H13, to near size, then drift either by hand or on your press. You can make shortish drifts in different increments to reach required size, and as you need the hourglass shape, the drift goes in from both sides. easily controlled under a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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