Fred Rowe Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 As you raise the set temperature for tempering 01, from 500fh.=Hrc57 800fh.=HRC50 1000fh.=HRC42; what happens to the abrasion resistance as the hardness goes down? If 01 is in the normalized state how much abrasion resistance does it possess compared to hardened 01? I would appreciate your insight, Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Well files tend to be around 60 so if your knife is tempered to 42 it can be readily cut with the file. If you are tempered to about 53 a file will barely cut. On the other hand, there would be little difference if you were using diamond for your abrasive... so really your answer must be tied to a specific abrasive to have meaning. In some cases greater hardness could DECREASE abrasion resistance (if say chipping due to brittleness occurred with the harder steel). So, sorry no simple pat answer is available... testing for the job at hand is hard to beat for accurate comparisons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Manganese steel is quite soft yet hideously abrasion-resistant. Same with titanium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rowe Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Thanks for the feedback guys. I am going to move the set point for tempering to 1000 degrees which should give around 42 hrc. I am trying to find the trade off point where I get the most abrasion resistance with the least brittleness. This is for the bevel grinding clamp I make. Soon as it cools down this evening I'll run some file test in the shop between the 500--800-- and 1000 degree tempers. Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thingmaker3 Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Abrasion resistance is only partially dependent on hardness. A big factor is the abrading material. What's the application here? What is the tool and how will it be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 01 is not normalized. It is annealed from 1450ºF. Air cooling will cause an unstable "hardening." http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 It seems to me that files cut differently from stones and sandpaper. You may want to test with sandpaper, or the grinder you are setting up to use. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 You're going to find that decent abrasive belts will pretty easily chew through O1 tempered at 1000F. I could go into a long explanation about the hardness of the various carbides (most of them are softer than the abrasive on your belts), and how even vanadium carbide in a soft matrix is liable to tear out. But just try it. For what you're trying to do, tungsten carbide would be a vastly better material. (Added later: Even nearly full hard O1 would be a vast improvement over what you propose. Yes, it'd be brittle. But you can probably design around that.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thingmaker3 Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 For what you're trying to do, tungsten carbide would be a vastly better material. Okay. I'm either blind or stupid. (Today is Friday? Must be stupid.) What IS a bevel grinding clamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 A coule of things came to mind as I read and reread this question: the first being that I am old and delusionl/paranoid and I am also ok if you tell me in know nothing about this and should just leave it alone. The second being that you want to make knives and want a guide to help you get nice evn grind lines on both sides of the blade and have in mind a tool that will allow you to do that without a lot of fuss and bother. About this second one; If you use quality abrasives and run them at proper speeds on a reall good belt grinder you will also grind into any steel you use for that tool as well as into the blade blank. If wot I guess is correct you can learn to flat or hollow grind without a guide if you spend some time on it. For most folks I have taught to do this you can get a ehad staert by reading my bp on finishing blades on a belt grinder, I do not remember the bp number. Look that over or better yeet print it and keep it handy in the shop for reference. Pay close attention to the push stick and how to use it. Get about 40 feet of 1 and 1/2" mild steel 1/4" inch thick mild steel and cut it into about 12" lengths, Grind bevels on both ends and see how to improve your skills as you grind. If you know all this already and I have read the question completely wrong do not read this or throw any rocks my way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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