The Essential Differences in The Hofi Technque?

[Robert Simmons]

Greetings,

I have been reading more about the Hofi technque and the hammer that is encouraged for that technique. Now I plan to get the DVD and then maybe the hammer after I see the DVD when finances permit but I have some questions in the meantime that I was hoping practitioners of Mr. Hofi's tecnique could answer.

1) What is the essential difference between the Hofi technique and what "standard blacksmithing" technique (if there is such a thing) is. I know Hofi's is suppoesed to be more ergonomic but how so?

2) Is the Hofi technique something a smithing beginner like I could learn or does it require a lot of experience to even understand? Does it involve learning some different muscle memory about swinging a hammer?

3) Is the technique hard to learn for experienced smiths because of muscle memory? For example, it can be very difficult to change an experienced golfer's technique due to years of muscle memory.

4) Is the Hofi technique just concerned with hammering or are there other spects such as usage of tongs and strategy for adressing projects?

5) Can the Hofi technique be employed with hammers other than the Hofi hammer even if imperfectly? The hammer itself can be quite pricey and may intimidate newbies who are not rolling in cash. If it can be practiced with other hammers, which ones?

6) Does Hofi have a book out or plans to write one?

Thanks in advance.

-- Robert

[thecelticforge]

From what I have heard, the Hofi way is just good basic techniques that keep you from destroying your health. Use your largest muscles when you can, etc...

Just remember to never let your lips contact a cold anvil...

[Glenn]

This may answer some of your questions

What makes the Hofi Hammer so great

[Robert Simmons]

Yeah I have read that thread completely. However, I didn't feel that it answered these questions.

[HWooldridge]

Re your questions:

1) I doubt there is any such thing as a "standard blacksmithing" technique. Any sort of tool usage involves certain ergonomics that make life easier or harder, depending on how you apply them. Thinking back on when I started, I had no one to coach me and went through a few years of gripping the hammer too tightly, which caused some amount of wrist pain. Over time and with practice, I adopted a looser method that has allowed me to work at this almost 30 years with no injuries or abnormal pain so far (knock on wood and salt over the shoulder ). Hofi is a smart fellow and a good teacher so he's made more of an impact by demonstrating what he knows but the bottom line is that it amounts to proper use of body mechanics.

2) Anyone can learn his technique or another one. Being in good overall physical shape also helps - for example, Frank Turley practices tai chi and swears by it for relaxation and good form in the shop.

3) This may depend primarily on the individual and how he/she applies the information.

4) Hofi is a "lean thinker" (as are many other smiths) so he applies that type of active thought to other processes in the shop - just take a look at his school setting. I can't speak for him but I think his motto may be, "Do what makes the most sense".

5) The actual hammer is secondary to the method but does have characteristics that make it very useful on general work.

6) You'll need to ask him - he frequents this forum sometimes and can likely shed the most light on all of your questions.

[firebug]

This is going to take a while so I will answer as much as I can. Hopefully I will answer your questions without too many typos or convoluted explanations. I may not get every detail down but I will be close.

As far as the basic hammer technique is concerned. You say you have read my reply in the other thread concerning what makes the Hofi hammer so good. You should have been able to pick up most of the differences but I will go over them in a nut shell.

In the Hofi method you use a loose grip with the palm down towards the anvil. Your thumb is along side of the handle more than it wraps around the handle. You use the thumb and first 2 fingers for most of the grip. The last two fingers are more to control the handle of the hammer as it pivots in your hand. You grip the hammer 2-3 inches behind the hammer head and allow the hammer to pivot in your hand at that point. By doing this you have created 4 points of movement in the arm that swings the hammer. The shoulder, elbow, wrist and between the thumb and first two fingers. This allows greater velocity in the hammer head JUST prior to striking the iron as it pivots in you hand. This is where a lot of the energy is produced. For a given hammer weight, the higher the velocity the more work you produce. Like I said before a lighter hammer can produce more work by simply traveling at a higher velocity than a heavier hammer. I am not talking about a 1 pound hammer compared to a 5 pound hammer, rather a 2.75 compared to a 3 or even a 3.3 pound hammer. Velocity cannot overcome everything. By holding the hammer palm towards the anvil face, you are moving your wrist in a more natural and less restrictive manner and are less likely to injure that joint. In the Hofi method the hammer is tilted to forge with greater speed. An unbalanced hammer will deflect to the side. Emphasis is placed on knowing your hammer and how to use every part. The hammer and anvil are used in conjunction with each other with great effect and is taught with emphasis.

Standing at the anvil. This is going to be hard to explain but I will do my best. Watch how many smiths work and you will see that they stand directly beside the anvil. They face the anvil and their managing hand is at their crotch. This causes them to have to lean over their managing hand and work to see where they are striking. This makes it harder to work and is very hard on the body. In the Hofi system you stand to the side of the anvil but off center some to the rear. You do not directly face the anvil and your managing hand is in front of you allowing the work piece to pass in front of you. The front of your body faces more in the direction the horn is facing. Now you can see where you are striking without looking over your managing hand or work. Your back is not constantly worked from excessive leaning. I will attach a photo of me working beside the anvil. Hofi has developed two anvils. One is the Ozark Pattern Anvil. The other is the Hofi Anvil being produced overseas. The one produced outside the country has many improvements over the one produced in the states. There is not a place on the anvil that does not have a purpose, even the base is used to make different size radius bends in iron. The hardy hole is placed towards the front where there is more mass to support working and it is more natural working there. English patterns have the Hardy at the rear where there is less mass and less stability. Also, you are more likely to damage the anvil if you miss your work and injure yourself if you forget to remove the Hardy tool. There are 4 pritchel holes for punching, bending etc. The face of the anvil is only 4 inches wide. The reasons are: the face of your hammer is only so wide, maybe 2 inches, therefore you don't need a wide face which acts as a heatsink drawing the heat out of your iron. The wider the anvil face the farther you have to reach to work on the far side of the anvil, which is where most of the work is done in the Hofi system.

As far as learning it, in my opinion it is not harder to learn than any other method. If you are a beginner I think you have an advantage because you have not learned any other way of doing it. You are starting fresh. If a person has been smithing for several years then there is no doubt that they may have to overcome some habits formed early on. I have been around blacksmithing for several years have many friends who are blacksmiths and learned a little about the so called traditional way. I know enough that in my mind I believe my body will last much longer using the Hofi method as compared to what is traditionally taught. Once you learn to forge with the Hofi hammer, using his striking technique, you can adapt it to anything you are taught. In other words, making scrolls, dragon heads, leaves, drawing a point etc.

The reason the Hofi technique is so ergonomic is because the body was given number one priority over most any other aspect of blacksmithing while he was developing his style.. Remember Hofi was 52 when he started blacksmithing, he had to consider how it would effect his body. So every consideration was given to standing beside the anvil, holding the hammer and swinging it. When the hammer heads are attached to the handles a compound call Sika Flex is used. It gives some shock absorption between the hammer head and wood handle. It is little things like that when the totality of everything is considered that makes him different from many smiths out there. He uses a VERY light grip, just guiding the hammer, doesn't bend over the anvil, NEVER places the thumb on top of the hammer, allows the natural rebound to assist him in raising the hammer. Something you cannot do to a great affect with your thumb on top.

This is not magic Robert, it is not something mystical, it is straight forward common sense backed up by science. I have stood at the front of the class assisting Hofi and was able to watch the expressions of the students he was teaching. You can see it in their eyes, they were amazed, grinning from ear to ear at what he could do in a short period of time. Many of these students were very accomplished smith, not just beginners, one was a German Master. I have been around a lot of smiths at conferences and know many, I am yet to see one that could make a leaf in one heat complete with veins and stem. That doesn't sound like much but believe me to be able to do that takes very precise hammer control. I am yet to see someone that can draw out a point anywhere near the length that he can in one heat. He was doing a demonstration one year at an ABANA conference and was showing how he draws a point out. He started out hammering, hammering, hammering and he kept hammering and when the crowd thought he could hammer any more he kept hammering. Many were amazed at how long he could hammer and the iron was still hot. He drew out a point in ONE heat that was absurd in length. When he was done the crowd stood up and cheered, they had never seen such a thing. He keeps the iron hotter longer by the sequence in which he forges the iron and by the energy imparted into the iron. If you can strike hard enough and fast enough you can actually put heat into the iron keeping it hot longer. I have seen him work at the anvil from 7:30 in the morning until 8 or 9pm at over 50 years of age. Many younger students were beat down. Also know that he does this in spite of being diabetic. I am not saying he is the only smith that can do these things I just saying I have never seen one that can do it.

It is my opinion that parts of the hammer technique can be used with most other hammers, just not to as great an effect. The problem is that in the Hofi system the hammer is tilted, sometimes quit a bit. With some hammers once they are tilted very much they will rotate and deflect to the side. Some hammers have long handles making it difficult to hold the hammer near the head without the handle hitting the anvil face.

He is planning a book but I have no idea how long it will take to publish it. I have seen some DVD's and have the one you can get off Ebay. It is OK. I have been fortunate though in that I go directly to him to learn. My advise is if you can find someone that understands his method and uses it go to them.

Go to my facebook page. You must use GOOGLE and type in the search engine: facebook.com/customornamentaliron this is a little page I created. It has some of my work on there. It is nothing special. I am capable of much more, the problem is people are not buying the nice stuff where I live. I retired 2 years ago from the fire department and that has finally allowed me to start practicing my skills in the last few months. For three years I would take a class with Hofi, either in NC or New York and literally put my hammer down and not pick it back up until I took a class with him the following year. My anvil sat on the floor for 2 years before I put it on a stand, pitiful ain't it?

Any how hope this helps.

[John B]

Can the Hofi technique be employed with hammers other than the Hofi hammer even if imperfectly? The hammer itself can be quite pricey and may intimidate newbies who are not rolling in cash. If it can be practiced with other hammers, which ones?


Hofi's hammer has a shortish square shaped handle which enables his technique/grip to be utilised, I have seen Hofi demonstrate this technique (plus other stuff) Know people who have his hammers, and had hands on experience on a number of them.

The nearest I have encountered to his hammer is what we in the UK would term a lump (or club) hammer, used by builders fos shaping masonry by various means, Looks like a mini sledge, with a short handle.

Like Hofi's, they will freestand on the anvil face, with the handle parallel to the face of the handle, the weight is evenly balanced around the hammers eye, and they can be used in the same fashion as the Hofi, you may have to grind larger radii on to give the fullering action, but if you do that, retain the balance.


The other things stated about posture, grip and addressing the anvil were around long before they were highlighted by Hofi, indeed I personally used many of these "component" parts and passed them on to my apprentices.

With regard to the anvils,

Quote English patterns have the Hardy at the rear where there is less mass and less stability.

Are you not familiar with the "Boat" style anvils?

The London Pattern anvil is the general purpose anvil, suitable for most situations, the boat anvils are usually subject to more harder work

Quote Also, you are more likely to damage the anvil if you miss your work and injure yourself if you forget to remove the Hardy tool.

You are assuming that the Bick is always the farthest away from the hammer holding hand, Sorry that is not always the case, on production work especially or where you are going to use the Hardie hole as a tool station, the hardie hole is placed on the tong hand side.

Finally, I would suggest whichever way you wish to go is to take some instruction one to one with someone who has succesfully mastered a particular method.

As a beginner it is important to have a hammer you are comfortable with, that fits your hand and is safe.(HT wise) and a method of using it that will enable you to work it without crippling yourself. Hofi has just highlighted and quantified why his method is one (not the only one) that works, and for bringing these points to out attention, he should be applauded.

And thanks to Fire bug for his explanations, not an easy thing to convey.

[firebug]

Thanks for the compliment.

You must remember I will seldom say "always" when I address a subject like the English or London pattern anvils, their use or the use of a hammer or particular method of forging. When I am answering a question I give mostly generalized replies based on what I have observed and believe most have observed. In the Southern United Stated where I live I can say with confidence that London or English pattern anvils out number by at least 10 to 1 any other form of anvil such as the Euro anvil, German Anvil etc. That is why I only addressed the English pattern because it is the most prominent by far. I don't have the time to address them all. 99% of the time the bick or horn will be farthest from the hammer hand hence the statement about the hardie hole and possible injuries because most of the time that holds true. Example: hammer in right hand bick to the left side of the body while facing the anvil.

When you set the Hofi Hammer face down on the face of the anvil it may or may not balance with the handle parallel to the anvil. That really has nothing to do with it being balanced in the sense that Hofi speaks of.

[John B]

Generalisation can create problems in heated debates like this one I am afraid,

Having said that I must throw my hands up and declare I am guilty of the same, as all the Hofi's I have seen, including the one Hofi demonstrated did stand on the anvil as described.

When I stated the weight is evenly balanced around the hammers eye I was referring to the head itself, Is that not what balance refers to ?

And if not, can this be clearly defined please ?

And I hope this is going some way to clarifying Roberts problems/questions.

[firebug]

Believe me I understand. Yes you are right about the weight being equally distributed around the eye. Having said that I am sure that it is not perfectly distributed but close. The only reason I brought up the comment about the hammer standing on its face with the handle parallel to the anvil face is, I did not want someone to think if their hammer didn't do that there was a problem with it.

Let me also say that while I believe that there IS more than one way to skin a cat(catfish), there are usually only a few good ways. I believe Hofi's method is one of the good ways to do it. Is there another good way or two out there, I am sure that there are. So when I am on here I am giving my opinion as to how I think it the best way. Anyone else is welcome to join and disagree with me. We can debate it over and over until one of us throws our hands up in disgust or gives in.

I will also say that I personally know of quit a few people that converted to the Hofi method because of joint pain. I am not saying that they were swinging the hammer like any particular person on this forum before they converted.

[John B]

Thank you for your response, and at least you are giving a qualified opinion based on fact and that should be respected.

I too know of people changing to the Hofi Technique, mostly because they lacked guidance in their initial stages.

Too many observe what is happening at the hammers point of contact as opposed to what is going on with grip, stance, swing and relationship to all relevant details that are required to get to that point of contact.

[Frank Turley]

There is lots of verbiage here. You can go to youtube.com and type in uri hofi. Watch him work.

[Fe-Wood]

There is lots of verbiage here. You can go to youtube.com and type in uri hofi. Watch him work.

Dito- Its worth the watch.
Another point I'd bring up- Being a smith or atemping to be one brings the advantage of not being affraid to customize off the shelf tools to suite ones needs. A good rasp and a hand saw can turn a regular hammer handle into a "Hofi" style handle in about 10 minutes.

[youngdylan]

There is lots of verbiage here. You can go to youtube.com and type in uri hofi. Watch him work.

I just did that. One the first page the videos were all either advertisemenst for his anvil or DVD or him using a powerhammer. Maybe I missed something, but I didn't see any videos explaining in detail what makes his technique special or innovative. I'm curious about it but don't want to part with money given how as many expereienced smiths seem to disregard it be as interested in it. I always respect EXPERIENCE. From the little I know, his idea of the loose grip and whip motion have been used over here for centuaries.

A lot of Hofis emphasis is on proper use of the body. All good there. I have my own school of thought with regards this. And it is:........ "if you earn your living from moving metal hot, do as LITTLE hand hammering as possible, buy at LEAST one powerhammer, make plenty of tooling and jigs for them. they will increase your productivity many many many time over, repay your investment in a very short time, and allow you to work bigger stock and are much easier on your body". If you're into the Zen of hammering, well that's something else.

Small Little Giants were bought by the shed load by one man band and other small outfits. They were sold in the quantities they were for a reason.

[Francis Trez Cole]

Well there has been a lot of talk about ergonomic (big buzz work in the 90's)The Japaneese have been blacksmithing for a long time and there hammer head weight is about 90% in front of the handle. That style of hammer is used by file makers in england and a host of others. Is one hammer better than an other? Philip Simmons liked his ballpeen hammer. Brian Bazeal has his rounding Hammer that he makes. I see the video by Hofi as a good starting point for the inexperanced or a refresure for the experanced. We should be trying to improve our product and style and protecting our tools and our body is a tool. When I worked as a chef learning moter skills was where you started. Because you spent most of the day standing over a cutting board cutting Vegetables, meat, chicken and fish. It was compaired to training for the oylmpics and there is a culinary olympics. As Blacksmiths we should be doing all we can to protect our assets. That is why this forum is so great you can see and learn from blacksmiths from all over the world. Wish this was around when I started out.

[Frank Turley]

Getting slightly off topic, I wanted to comment on the Japanese hand hammer, not that I'm lauding it.

I have the dimensions of four hand hammers. Two belonged to Yataiki, the premier saw maker. The proportion ratio in inches on one is 2.5" : 1.5", the larger figure being head to center of haft; the smaller being poll to center of haft. His personal hammer was 2.75 : 1.25. In my shop, I have a small hammer purchased in California 2.25 : 1.5.
A recently hand forged Japanese forging hammer weighs approximately 3.5 pounds. It's proportion is 3.5 : 1.25, so compared to the others, it is proportionately "head heavier."

Many of the Japanese sledge hammers have a quite long head compared to poll ratio. This is probably because the anvils are low and buried into the ground.

The hand hammer eyes are rectangular, the hafts about 12"+, going into an oval for the grip.

The poll is not used for forging as a peen would be. When you pick up a Japanese hammer to go to work, there is no mistaking how to hold it.